This one I had to share. I can't stop laughing at myself. I was really serious and picked up a set of front calipers to upgrade a GT front brake set. While there they had a Borini style set of rims for cheap. Ok offset works and all is good so I take them to the local tire place and get them set. I just put one on the wagon to make it look a bit better and found the front jack point wanted to be on the inside of the car. Ok so did the back and I never got to the passenger side. I did manage to get one on the front. Wait a borini style on probably the rustiest ugly thing I've ever owned. I couldn't stop laughing, I'm polishing a turd. Honest if you saw it you would be laughing too. I'd post pictures but it's a PG site.
polishing a....
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Yea, but the turds are the most fun to drive. I just contracted a local shop to bend me up some inner rockers for the 'Turd' rallycar. I'm making the outer rockers from rectangular tuning. Not much material left there either. Jack pads? What are those? But even ugly kids need lovin'....nobody said:
I can't stop laughing. Fake wood sides blasted interior and I spent 3 years getting it. I've decided it's beyond fugly... it's the hideous mobile. I put the new rims and new lower control arm on. Now I need to go to Wal mart for more shelf paper to make the sides look new. Yes it's loved but man oh man is it ugly. Solex and points really add to it's beauty. Ok vacuum secondary solex that doesnt work, points are way off and a 74 ignition on a 70 motor,with blown advance daiphram, enough rust to sink the titanic, loose A arms and a blown lower link. Oh front jack points are not even there....other than the clutch being non existent it's a really nice car. Really...Honest
I'm not sure making it drivable is a good thing but I do love the little bugger.
Where did I put that clutch...duct tape....bailing wire?
I'm not sure making it drivable is a good thing but I do love the little bugger.
Where did I put that clutch...duct tape....bailing wire?
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Go buy a new one ???
Nah!
Duct Tape and bailing wire will prolong its useful life - indefinitely.
A bit of polishing will put a gloss on it .........
"Rat Wagons RULE!!!!!!!"
Nah!
Duct Tape and bailing wire will prolong its useful life - indefinitely.
A bit of polishing will put a gloss on it .........
"Rat Wagons RULE!!!!!!!"
It was just funny. I put on new tires and better rims on a car that barely runs and needs an axle bearing. A couple yards of steel wouldn't hurt it either. I did manage a pair of big calipers off the same car so it was a good hunt at the local junk yard.
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Well if you only knew the full plan, Little Miss won't fit. Fuel injected turbo 1.9 on nitro methane, tubbed rear end and tranny maybe t5. The plan is to strengthen the frame and make it a jaw dropper with over 300 horse. I was looking at it last night and decided to completely remove the back seat and do the rear in a hardwood floor from the front seats back. Maybe Mr. Fugly
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dave, i dont think a T5 will hold up to spirited driving with 300HP......a 2.8 when driven hard can blow one up eventually with its mighty 115 HP. T56......oh daddy watch out.
Jared, I think that it would depend on which T-5 Dave gets. There is a world class, I think that's the terminology, T-5 used in the Hi-Per Mustangs and GM V-8s that would probably hold up nicely. If not then for sure one of the T-56 6 speeds would do the deed, no problem. It's just a matter of being able to bolt the bellhousing to the motor.
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Ron is correct, a World Class T5 is rated for 330 lb ft of torque in a 3200 lb car, so it can pretty much handle anything you throw at it in an Opel. Alternatively Ford has the Tremec 5-speeds (HD rated for 500 lb ft and the Extra HD rated for 600 lb ft), which are direct T5 replacements. The T5's that came behind Chevette engines or V6 engines are not as strong and tend to have wider gear ratio spreads as well.
Bob
Bob
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Just think ......
With an overdrive top gear - when MISTER Fugly is running 200mph plus on the salt with the engine turning 7,500 rpm then the torque tube drive shaft and the diff pinion will be turning at near 9,000 rpm !
With an overdrive top gear - when MISTER Fugly is running 200mph plus on the salt with the engine turning 7,500 rpm then the torque tube drive shaft and the diff pinion will be turning at near 9,000 rpm !
Bob, I could be mistooken, but I believe Tremec bought out the tranny division of Borg-Warner, or the entire company, IDK. I called them awhile back looking for a cure to converting their electrical speedo output to a mechanical, but no such luck. They told me all T-5's had electrical sppedo outputs, so, for an additional $300, I got a Cable X box that will do the deed, of course, there had to be a mod to the cable where it hooks into the speedo, but that was only $20 at the local speedo/tach shop. One thing about this box, there are 15 pages of DIP switch settings in the manual, and they guarantee they can get any mechanical speedo to within .01% accurate using an electrical speedo output to their box, using a simple formula to dial in wheel diameter, axle ratio, etc. Of course it's only as accurate as the speedo is. But that should be close enuff to keep from getting tickets, I hope. Or at least lemmee know when I'm getting close to it.
I was looking at it again last night and decided to remove all the chrome from the wheel arches and rain gutter. I'll have to weigh it all against the replacement panels for the windows to see how many pounds I'll be shaving off of it. I did locate some steel for the needed repairs and panels. 55 bucks for a 4x8 sheet seems like a descent price, I think I'll need about that much.
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Zyntec ..
That makes sure the inside of the replacement panels are less prone to rust as the zinc protects the metal. The sheets are a dull grey colour.
HTH
Dave, See if you can get hold of some 14 SWG or 16 WSG Air Conditioning ducting steel sheet - It is zinc electroplated and known as "Zyntec" here.nobody said:
That makes sure the inside of the replacement panels are less prone to rust as the zinc protects the metal. The sheets are a dull grey colour.
HTH
I'll be using Opel steel for the body but want something a bit thicker for the window blanks, but for that location I can use anything since both sides are exposed.
On another goofy idea, I was debating the rear end for this project. Isuzus are rare in the scrap yards around here so I was debating one from an RX7. Any thaughts on this other than it's a bit wider.
Also a T56 is around 1500 used so it's not gonna happen, however a T5 world class can be had for under 500, so that looks like a winner.
My plan is to remove as much chrome as possible and then blank out the rest. Turn it into a panel was always the goal then have it ready drive train wise to just drop in a rocket motor but still be drivable in the mean time. Kinda backwards for me, usually I build from the motor out but this time it will be motor last.
On another goofy idea, I was debating the rear end for this project. Isuzus are rare in the scrap yards around here so I was debating one from an RX7. Any thaughts on this other than it's a bit wider.
Also a T56 is around 1500 used so it's not gonna happen, however a T5 world class can be had for under 500, so that looks like a winner.
My plan is to remove as much chrome as possible and then blank out the rest. Turn it into a panel was always the goal then have it ready drive train wise to just drop in a rocket motor but still be drivable in the mean time. Kinda backwards for me, usually I build from the motor out but this time it will be motor last.
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