Opel GT Forum banner

61 - 80 of 103 Posts

·
Your Noble Friend ;-)
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Thank you Lynn. No, the ABS is gone. It was completely integrated into the 2.2 Engine management and wire loom. And, it didn't work anymore, or at least the ABS light was on constantly. Assuming that one or more sensors were bad. I tried to remove the sensors from the front axle when I sold the ignition system to somebody else here from the forum, but they would not even come off anymore.

I'm currently wiring the ABS light to come on when I turn on the Cruise Control ;)

Dieter
 

·
Your Noble Friend ;-)
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
Discussion Starter · #62 ·
I worked my butt off all evening, but all I have to show is a Swiss Cheese made out of aluminum, and a few 3D printed plastic parts. Both painted Navy Blue.

Dieter

433283
 

·
Your Noble Friend ;-)
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
Discussion Starter · #63 ·
I hate wiring. But it needs to be done.

Dieter

433294
 

·
Your Noble Friend ;-)
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
Discussion Starter · #64 ·
This looks a lot cleaner than the actual result from my previous post.

But then ... am I overdoing it???

Dieter

433327


433329
 

·
Your Noble Friend ;-)
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Wiring of the IP panel board is finished. Everything worked at the first tryout. In fact, the very first tryout has been captured in the attached video. Enjoy!

Dieter


433406
 
  • Like
Reactions: terrylewisac

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,273 Posts
Awesome Dieter,
Fantastic job, looks very professional
 

·
Your Noble Friend ;-)
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
Discussion Starter · #68 ·
I did a whole lot more wiring in the interior, although that's not much to show in pictures. Also, I painted the center console with the same navy blue paint which I used for the IP board. It's not perfect, but a lot better than before. And it now holds a small relay board which is connected to the switches on the IP board.

Dieter

433429


433431
 

·
Your Noble Friend ;-)
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
Discussion Starter · #69 ·
I'm waiting for a new shifter boot which will come in Tuesday. Why did I not order one months ago...?
So, back to the exterior. The sunroof needs to go:
1. It did not open anymore, the mechanics are toast.
2 It sagged down a little, making it easily possible for water to run in.
3. The Light Bar will partially cover it, and have some of its screws going through the sunroof.
This is one of the things which I procrastinated from the beginning. There is no good way to do this, no right way and no wrong way. I had different ideas to make it the easiest and still good-looking at the end:
1. Weld it in place in a few spots, and tin / body solder the rest closed. Problem: the gap (after I was able to remove the seal) was about 6-7 mm wide. I would have had to fill something underneath the tin, and I was worried about the heat going in. Didn't want to end up with a corrugated roof.
2. Weld it in place in a few spots, and just tape a rubber lip over the gap. Didn't find a rubber strip that was bending around the tight corners, and it would have looked $hitty as well.
3. Have a thin piece of sheet metal (~0.5 mm) that is slightly larger than the sunroof go over the sunroof and "tin" or "solder" it in place all around. Meaning, tin the overlap on the sheet metal, and the area around the sunroof, overlap the two pieces and heat them up to melt the solder in between them and "glue" them together. I actually bought the sheet metal already (0.5 mm thick, www.McMaster.com) and tried it today on two small pieces (not on the roof). Didn't go so good, again, heat is not your friend on large flat pieces of sheet metal.
4. Weld it in place in a few spots, and fill the gap up with bondo. Not sure how good this will go, but I started it today for good. I welded it in 8 places, and since the gap was partially opening up underneath the roof surface, stuffed it with fiberglass mats and soaked it with resin. I will fill it with fiberglass bondo tomorrow night, and finish it off with regular bondo. Another idea (and to hide possible cracks which might come up in the future, I am considering to have the whole roof wrapped in a sheet of white vinyl.

I'm really curious on how this will end up. Thoughts and prayers will be appreciated!

Dieter

433550


433551


433552
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
9,741 Posts
Dieter
I think there's a product out there that's like liquid metal...I think JP Blanco used to use it a lot. Could it fill the remaining gap and be finished off to be prepared for paint/wrapping?
 

·
Your Noble Friend ;-)
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
Discussion Starter · #71 ·
 
  • Like
Reactions: opellane

·
Your Noble Friend ;-)
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
Discussion Starter · #72 ·
The sunroof got filled in with fiber glass bondo, and received the first layer of filler bondo today. It went a lot better than I thought. Hope it continues to positively surprise me!

Pilot holes have been drilled for attaching the light bar. The large hole you see is to get the cables through.

Dieter

433624


433625
 

·
Your Noble Friend ;-)
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
Discussion Starter · #73 ·
We have "Light", and we have "Sound"!!!

Dieter

 
  • Like
Reactions: jayhawkjesse33

·
Your Noble Friend ;-)
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
Discussion Starter · #75 ·
Another thing that is done and finished is the cover over the fuse board in the passenger wheel well. Made out of aluminum (painted Navy Blue to match the interior) and bronze tinted macrolon. It's held in place by 3 thumb screws, it can easily be removed without tools to get access to the fuses.
I chose the semi-transparent macrolon, so I can see if any fuses are blown. The fuse holders will have an LED light come on per each fuse that is either blown or not present, if a load is connected to that circuit. I simulated this by removing one of the fuses, you can see the red LED behind the cover. Without additional light (which I needed to take the picture) you will not be able to see through the plastic. The area above the cover will eventually be covered by the instrument panel / glove compartment.
Another nice feature is a simple strip of double-sided 3M tape behind the aluminum, with plenty of spare fuses glued right to it!

Dieter

433722


433723
 

·
Your Noble Friend ;-)
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
Discussion Starter · #76 ·
It was a pretty successful day today, also thanks to my awesome wife Valerie :love:. We buffed off the bumpers and side moldings, sprayed them with AdPro, and primed them. When it came to painting, I had a little bit of a surprise. The paint which I bought as a medium-to-dark gray was actually bright beige. A definite no-go. I sprayed a coat of it on the bumpers anyway, but the longer I saw it, the uglier it looked. Going shopping again tomorrow, need some medium-to-dark gray paint!!!

Dieter

433739


433741


433742


433743


433744
 

·
Your Noble Friend ;-)
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
Discussion Starter · #78 ·
My counter shows even less, it goes to zero on Wednesday evening May 12th at 8pm. That's when I need to have the car loaded onto the truck.

Dieter
 

·
Your Noble Friend ;-)
Joined
·
4,346 Posts
Discussion Starter · #80 ·
Tic, tic, tic, tic.... :)
:p :p :p

The bumpers and door strips are now "medium-to-dark gray" as I imagined them! Pictures tomorrow, it was dark when I was finished.

But ...

Pictures of my new gauge design ... hehe ... designed with a graphics software, pictures mixed in from the internet, laser printed on matte vinyl, transferred on magnetic (!!!) base carriers, and attached over the original bezels. Lighted with blue LEDs. :love::cool:

Dieter

433754


433755


433756


433758
 
61 - 80 of 103 Posts
Top