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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, my opel is isint quite running the best. Its a little slow to start, then it will fire up at 4-600 RPM, then I'll floor it (to keep it from dying) and have to wait a good 20 sec for it to hit 3K. Then after a bit it will rev okay, and idle fine (with the clutch in). When i start off driving, the car has a really hard time making through 2500-3500...after it decideds to climb above 3500 (it not always does) it raps clear to 5 without any problem, tons of power (for a 1.9). And the intersting thing is that the problem come and goes, its not a constant thing, and not depent on the temperautre or 'warm up time'. I have replaced the coil (the old one has obviously bad) and put dry gas in it. I've set the timming, along with the rest of a basic tune up (plugs, points, wires, cap, rotor). But the problem remains, I'm going to rebuild the carb this weekend, any other suggestions? This problem is kind of similar to the vacum advance issues some of you were discussing, do you think that might be the culprit? Thanks again, any advice would be greatly appreciated.

BTW its a 73' 1.9 with the dual barrel solex.
 

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Detritus Maximus
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If that Solex is needing a rebuild and causing your problem (sounds like flooding/leaking jets. check for crud in the carb, consider getting the Weber 32/36. Sooooo much better. And I've heard too many stories about people spending tons of money trying to get the Solex to work right. And there are plenty of good used ones out there.
 

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What opelbits said,
Also what you said. Check all vac lines. One way to do it is take a 3 foot long hose hold it to your ear and with the other end poke around the vac hoses and listen for a hiss if you hear it u got a leak.

Webster
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
opelbits said:
If that Solex is needing a rebuild and causing your problem (sounds like flooding/leaking jets. check for crud in the carb, consider getting the Weber 32/36. Sooooo much better. And I've heard too many stories about people spending tons of money trying to get the Solex to work right. And there are plenty of good used ones out there.
I want to change out the carb, I'm looking into a modifyed holley or dual side drafts when I bump up the displacment. So, I'm just trying to save my pennies trying to get the car drivable. There has been some creative work done on the car, most of the fuel lines have been replaced, the shutoff valve is gone, and now there is a flow regulator installed just behind the carb. The carb kit wont be in till monday, but I think I might try that hose trick today, thats a really good idea.

Another question, is there a fuel filter on the tank, like a screen or something of that nature. Could there be crud in the tank causing the screen to clog? I don't really want to pull the tank if I dont have to. But if the carb kit dosnt work I think I might pull it just for curiosty sake. Thanks again for the help.
 

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Yes! There's a sock(mesh screen) in the tank where the fuel line comes out. I don't think you have to pull the tank to get it out just the line and a tail light but that was so long ago I can't be sure! If your pulling the tank (just an idea) You might want to get it boiled out while your at it, it's only cost me about $50.00 and well worth the peace of mind.
Good luck,
Webster:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thx again for the help. I just pulled the carb apart and boy was it nasty inside. Most of the jets were pretty much clogged the idle valve was stuck open, and the float was stuck down from all the crud that had built up around it! So, thats alteast some my fuel system problems fixed, also the big seal in the middle of the carb was completly missing one side. So, the kit should be in mon or tues with my new seals. Right now the carb is soaking in carb cleaner. I'll report back when I get it all back together (sometime next weekend). I cant wait to get the carb back on and see how it runs :D
 

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Detritus Maximus
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Sounds like junk from the tank. Especially if that car sat for awhile. To be on the safe side, I would suggest two of those clear glass cleanable fuel filters ($5-$10 at Autozone or JC Whitneys). Put one before the carb and one before the pump. Since they are clear, you can see if any crap is coming out of the tank and prevent re-disassembly of the carb and potential pump failure.
 

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Another thing to check is your fuel pump itself. You may have a two piece fuel pump. I have one and personally I like it. But the filter screen will get clogged. If you have one you will need a flat head screw driver to take of the top filter unit, ( make sure you have disabled the fuel line to the pump first) and clean it out being careful not to damage the screen. put it back together and that is that as far as the pump. I don't know how many others use this kind of pump but I know they are out there so check to make sure if you don't have one you don't have to worry about it. For the Gas tank, you will save money in the long run by taking the tank out having it cleaned and fixed if needed. My tank had 27 pin holes in it that didn't drip due to the paint but did saturate everything in the back.(I just soldered mine) So if you have a gas smell don't conclude that it is just clogged vents. It very well could be leakage.( I opted for the POR 15 tank reconditioning solution) You will also want to replace the seal on your gas cap if needed, also make sure your filler neck rubber is in good shape , 2 inline fuel filters are a good bet in any case. Rebuilding your carb is going to make a world of difference. But don't forget all the varnish and rust that is already in your tank. obviously it won't work itself out for some time. A very long time and many filters down the road...

RITTER
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I have plenty of power now....after it warmed up. Once the temp gauge hits the middle it accelerates withouth any problem. But it still dosnt' like cold mournings very much. It will backfire and generally complain. I'm going to tinker with the cold start mechanism to see if an adjustment can the solve the problem. I do have the electric choke, now I just need some time to tinker with my opel again....darn finals.
 

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Detritus Maximus
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Check the float height, too. If it is too high, you'd be dribbling gas into the venturis. And it wouldn't like the cold or low rpm's. Might like the higher rpm range alot.
 
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