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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now that the fuse block is rewired, the car has power to all equipment...even with the key removed.

Could this be due to a shorting of the ignition switch, or the ignition relay?

My car had a short, and subsequent fire in the fuse block. This fried the ignitor, what fusible links were left, the radio, and my right hand a few weeks ago. Now I'm chasing gremlins, until I catch them all.
 

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You probably have the ignition switch wired wrong. I had a crossed wire once. If you turned on the headlights and had the turn signal on, the car would run without a key.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
???

I haven't rewired the ign switch. I did replace the fuse block and volt. regulator, but I just put the wires back on as I removed them. I replaced the ignition relay, and the ignitor. Now the GT runs well again.

However my problem is still:

The car runs without a key once it's started. The headlights are always on, whether up, or down. All my guages are on. Don't know about the radio as it is smoked. I'm puzzled. :confused:

I just removed the black and the red wires from the headlight relay (above the fuse block), and the headlights continue to remain "on."

What in the heck is happening and/or what am I doing wrong?

As I look @ the wiring diagrams, could it be one of the two headlight relays? Or is there a direct short somewhere? Does this sound familiar to anyone???
 

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I know this sounds way too simple. Check the headlight dimmer switch on the floorboard.
Also check to see that the switch on the dash for the running lights is off. Some people wired the switch on the dash to run the headlights cuz the headlight relay could be a pian.

If you disconnect the batt and then reconnect do you have everything still powered. If not, then it is definately a bad wiring on the relay.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My headlight dimmer is on the left-hand side of the steering column. The only switch in the floorboard is a footpedal that actuates the washer fluid and wipers automatically.

My running lights switch doesn't function. In fact, I don't know what it is supposed to operate.

When I disconnect the battery then reconnect, I still have power to everything. Disconnecting the battery is the only thing I can do to keep it from draining.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Oh and thanks for the suggestions! Please keep them coming...as my brain is now shorted-out as well.
 

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When you unhooked the red wire from the headlight relay they should have shut off. I would make sure all the dash switches are off in the upper position. I think someone has wired in some other switch or something for your lights. Now that you have fixed after a fire some of the gremlins, you need to find out where this curcuit has been altered. It is probably feeding back now to power everything else. I'm going to ask a really stupid question but it has happened and causes some funny stuff. Are you absolutely sure that your battery is not reversed? Alot of things will still function but almost nothing will work right.
 

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wiring issues

Triple check the ignition relay and make sure it is wired properly. As for the lights, did they always work before you pulled the plugs out of the fuse block? My lights only come on with the rocker switch on the dash. You can leave them in the up position and just turn them off with the rocker.Let me know if you need me to look at anything as my car is right outside.
 

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Scott, there is no Black wire going to either the headlight relay or the dimmer relay according to my DESTEC schematic, although there is a Red wire that powers all the lights through the headlight relay. The running light switch in the center vertical console operates all the instrument lights and parking lites except the headlights. In the center of your fuse block there are 4 studs that route power from the battery through the amp meter and tie the alternator to the circuits. On one set of studs, side by side with a buss bar between them should be one 10 gage wire Red/White on each stud, these are from the battery to the B+ side of the amp gage. The two other studs are all the red wires that come from the alternator, the L+ side of the amp gage and distribute the power to all the other circuits. There is a buss bar connecting those two studs and one fuse, the wires from the buss bar side of the fuse powers the parking light switch and your ignition switch. It is a possibility you have the wires going to the four studs backwards. Just out of curiosity, what schematic are you referring to for your trouble shooting?

Ron
 

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At this point, the only way it could be the relay is if the relay is fused. A good tap on the relay will usually unstick it. I really doubt that this is the problem though.
What it seems like is that you have the wires going to the relay wrong. This should account for all of the problems you are having.
It would seem that you have the power and ground wires on the relay on the switched side and the supply/feed wires on the coil side of the relay. All the cars power is going straight through the coil on the relay and back through the system.
To check this, pull the wires from the headlight relay. If this turns off the power then that is where your problem is.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I'm back

Let's see-

To begin, yes there are many aftermarket wires. I plan on thinning them out as I progress through this operation.

The wires to the battery are connected correctly. When I pulled the black/yellow wire from the relay, the headlights went out. It is the switch labeled: 30/51-87-86 and another # (I cannot recall from memory presently). This is the relay under the dash, on the top-back of the harness, as opposed to the other 2 in my book. It has connected to it a red wire, a black wire, a black/yellow wire, and some grey wires. I found the exact switch @ the parts store, rummaging through old relays. The only difference is that it only has one pole for the 87 position, where if memory serves me, the GT has 4.

The book I'm using, (again I cannot recall the name, as I am at work and my brain doesn't function here), has a brown cover. It is for use with 1973 Opels, all models. I know mine is a 1971, but the wiring schematic appears to be the same.

Now, since my car starts with the key, but will not cut when switched to "off," I deduced that the ignition switch is not opening in the aforementioned position. To test this, I tried the turn signal with the key out of the car, and it operates. It did not do this before.

To answer another question asked yesterday: The headlights also operated when flipped-up, key in, or out. They did not require having a separate switch to operate. The "driving light" switch I don't think ever operated.

Thanks all! I'll keep y'all posted.

Scott
 

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Scott, After rereading your original problem, after you replaced the fuse panel etc., and knowing there was an electrical short and fire in the fuse panel area, and reading what else is going on. I believe that you have some more shorted wires probably in the harness going from the fuse panel to the engine compartment. This has all your headlight wiring in it along with the alternator wiring. I believe also that the two coil wires, one from the starter solenoid and/or the one from the fuse panel could also be cross shorted to a "hot" wire. The headlight relay you indicated has the correct connection numbers, the one you could not remember was 85 and is the relay mechanism positive wire. All the gray wires have a second color on them and they go to the running lights, L/R and to the license plate lights. The White/Yellow wires from terminal 87 supply headlight power the headlight dimmer relay and the indicator in the instrument panel. Because the engine continues to run with the key off, the coil has to be getting power from a source other than the ignition switch. And because the headlights remain on after the buckets are rotated indicates there is another source of power other than the headlight dimmer relay for them also. And because the other systems have power with the key off and out, I can only surmise the source of power is in the harness that contains the battery or alternator wiring from the engine compartment to the fuse panel. I would also suggest you contact DESTEC, aka J. J. Wheatley and get his latest wiring schematic for the GT. It is large, plastic coated, and color coded to indicate the actual wiring colors. HTH.

Ron
 
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