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price list for opel gts

hey has any one come a crossed a price list for opel gts like the ones in the old car price guide they list a cars value by a number like #1 is a perfect, and a #6 is a parts car. when i was looking at buying a gt some years ago the person had a list like that,and i am having a hard time finding one. i like too have one so had i can show other people what they are worth i have come acrossed some more and a lot of the people think that they are some kind of gold mine and want a lot for ones that dont go..and are missing stuff.
like there is one at towing yard by me and hes think that it worth around a 1000.00 but it does not run and the vale cover has been off for some time and the body bad,missing parts it needs a lot of help. but there is no way show him what they go for. so if any one can help

thank you
a opeler forever
ben
 

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Here's what I had saved from what Charles Goin had published earlier about the car levels. Lengthy but true. There is also a NADA guide somewhere here on the site, a search might pull it up. HTH, Jarrell


Level 0
MINT CONDITION, Absolutely perfect and totally original, a car with
0 miles and 0 dirt. This type of car probably does not exist. If it
does, its in Opels personal museum.

Value : ~$15,000

Level 1
A car at the 98-99% of perfect, this is a national show winner at
major car shows, NONE of the Opels at the OMC picnic last year
qualified, though there were 2 or 3 that were close enough to
qualify as level 1 for pricing purposes.

Value : $9,000-$7,000

Level 2 - (AKA HIGH value in NADA special interest car guide)
A car that for most purposes is perfect, it may have some
modifications (Will go into the modifications and effect on value at
the end of this). Wayne Tormans' or Gary Farias' cars fall into this
category. 99% of Opel restorations never come close to this level
of restoration. Its hard to tell a Level 1 from a Level 2 driving down
the road. OF course the catch is a level 1 would NEVER be driven
down the road.

Value: $7,000-$5,000**
($6400 in latest NADA special interest car guide)

** modifications affect class rating of a vehicle, BUT in special
interest cars the books and "experts" arent always on the mark
with this. The value guides and "expert" evaluations, are based on
a totally stock car, to make judging of the cars more equal. That
and MOST modifications are poorly done and dont meet a OEM or
professional fit and finish. BUT when they do, as is the case with
Wayne Tormans' electronically optioned GT (windows, etc, etc) or
a GT that has a 2.2l Opel engine modified by Bob Legere in it. The
values go UP. But at that point its all subjective and betwen the
owner and buyer. Case in point, lets use Waynes car again.

Body, Paint, interior, dash, lenses, etc. - 99% perfect
(level 2 bordering Level 1)
Value - $7,000

Custom modifications
(Power windows, door locks, rims, tires, etc. etc.)
Value adder - $4,000

My estimated value for Waynes car ~$11,000

Waynes BOOK value: $7,000

What Wayne would sell it for : $25,000

Its all subjective.

OK, now back into the cars that MOST of us Opel owners have

Level 3 (AKA Average by NADA Special Interest guide )

This is the car that most of us have pampered in our garages and
they make up 90% of local car shows. A level 2 driven daily for a
year without MAJOR detailing and pampering will be a level 3. This
is a car that has been restored by its owner and cared for greatly. It
may also be a totally perfect original car with fading paint. Its not a
show winner, but in a small local show it will be. Some wear in the
interior, paint is clean, rust-free, maybe the lenses are a bit faded.

Value: $5,000-$2,500
(NADA guide value: $4,750)

Level 4: (AKA Low in NADA Special Interest guide)
This car has oxidation in the paint, a few tears in the interior but is
a solid car, it more than likely has some rust in the quarter panels
BUT the floor pans and frame is rust-free. Car should have very little
bondo if any, if it has bondo, then the paint needs to be in better
shape.The lenses may have slight cracks. This car is typically a
car undergoing restoration, a well taken care of daily driver.

Value: $3,500-$1,500
(NADA Value of $3,200)

Level 5
This is where it gets tricky a car in this class and below shouldnt
even be thought of as a erstoration project. But there are a TON of
level 5 cars out there that have been restored from 5 to 4 possibly 3
and the owners have severly regretted it. This is the "running" GT
with a bad clutch, worn brakes, misses a but, has floor board rust,
broken side markers (or bondoed over). It looks as if it has
promise, but its really a parts car. LOTS of these GTs sell to new
owners that dont know much about GTs, they think the GT is super
rare and this will be the only one they will come across (Which as
we all know is the farthest thing from the truth, you just have to
look for them). This is also the RARE $3000 Opel GT we come
across in the trading post, whos owner has rocks in his head.

Value $1,500-$300 (Value depends greatly on condition of trim and
other parts on the car, if it has a performance engine, 5-speed, etc.)

Level 6
This is the one that even a novice would know is a basket case, its
a parts car with a lot of good parts. BUT dont be surprised to see it
be able to run under its own power (though not overly well).

Value $500-Take it out of my yard

Level 7
Didnt think this level existed? Well its the car in such bad shape
(rusted, broken up, etc.) that it doesnt have but one or two good
parts on it (Of course they are the ones you need for your car).

Value : $100 - You pay me to take it away

A few cardinal rules to finish this up with:

1) The Maximum increase in value after restoration equals one-half
of the money and NONE of the time invested.

2) Labor invested is worth exactly ZERO

3) Maintence and Repair costs are also worth exactly ZERO

4) To restore a car up a level usually costs double the difference
between the two levels. Thus to get a Level 2 GT from a Level 5 GT
costs you about $12,000 ($300 - $7000 X 2) The best way to go
about it is to buy a 4 and go to a 3 Sometimes this takes nothing
more than a nice paint job and some armor-all. OR finding a few
pieces here and there.

ITs best to invest about $3000 in a NICE level 3 or 4 GT. But look
alot and ask a lot of questions and most of all look for bondo and
rust.

Sincerely,

Charles Goin
 

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I wasn't aware of the Manheim Auctions, and when computer crashed, Charles' list was one of the few things I managed to save. The Nada Guides, I couldn't place my hands on. The OpelClub 06 guide was new to me, seems to me to be a condensed version of what Charles had posted. The Brown Gt that was running when I purchased it from Roy Bell, was the only one I paid more than $ 800 for. The Red one, that's being restored, I bought for $800 in 89. I have at least 4 times that much in it now, before putting anything back in it. :eek: I guess it's all relative to how badly you want a unique car, and how much you want to put in it. In my case too much. But in the end you do have a very unique classic car. Jarrell
 

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NADA guide is the most accurate and I am a member of the board.

http://www.nadaguides.com

The old list Soybean posted is still accurate. Although cars in the #3 and #4 categories have been going up recently.

I just posted a GT for sale that I am helping the guy sell. I went and took pictures etc. of it and its really a nice GT. A great project OR a good daily driver the way it is with a few mechanical repairs.

http://opelgt.com/ppc/showproduct.php?product=745

To give an idea of what I think its worth, and its level. I would call it about a 3.5, not quite a #3, but not as low as a #4.

Call me if interested: 1-804-379-9737

Charles
 

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Manihiems prices are low..

NADA prices are as of today: 9/25/05

1972 Opel GT - 2 Door Coupe

Low Retail $3,725
Average Retail $5,250
High Retail $7,225

Low Retail Value
This vehicle would be in mechanically functional condition, needing only minor reconditioning. The exterior paint, trim, and interior would show normal wear, needing only minor reconditioning. May also be a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. Most usable "as-is".

Some of the vehicles in this publication could be considered "Daily Drivers" and are not valued as a classic vehicle. When determining a value for a daily driver, it is recommended that the subscriber use the low retail value.

Average Retail Value
This vehicle would be in good condition overall. It could be an older restoration or a well-maintained original vehicle. Completely operable. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are presentable and serviceable inside and out. A "20-footer".

High Retail Value
This vehicle would be in excellent condition overall. It could be a completely restored or an extremely well maintained original vehicle showing very minimal wear. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are not in need of reconditioning. The interior would be in excellent condition. Note: This value does not represent a "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle *.
* "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle is not driven. It would generally be in a museum or transported in an enclosed trailer to concourse judging and car shows. This type of car would be stored in a climate-regulated facility.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
re

hey here is the deal, the lady, son said that a door is worth 800 per door, so she think that she wants 5000. for all three and the parts, she said that they all ran when parked, so thats what she wants. if any one want try to talk this cazy old lady out of them go for it i think if you have cash on hand at the time you went to look maybe??? 3000. but i dont think youll get it any lower but is know fo more gt in the area one for 600 and one for 850 the 600 has been inside for a lot of years and need a master brake cilnder. and the other one he said that it runs
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 · (Edited)
re

i think i know why old lady thinks her cars are worth so much her husband restored them before he past,she has pic's of all looking great but they have been siting for some time and now look like they do and hear kids don't want them, may be thats it ??
ok hear what i know
there is around ten opel gts in the utah area
that are for sale
chirs reardon in odgen
one car +parts
wants 850 for all
said it goes
pete smalley in lake pont utah
has six car and parts pic of car are in post (found in utah)
he wants 5000.00 for all
one in cearflied good shape need only minnor repair A\C car
600 frim has other parts car maybe ?liz should have pic's
leon in roy has parts cars 400 each but tore apart
and then one shadetree he wants 1000 for it its in bad shape for the price.

why some poeple think they are siting on a opel gt gold mine ?
i was thinking that may be we as a group, we can come up with some kind of price list with pic's of what a #1 car is, and whats it worth. and a # 2 and so on. all way to a #6 which is parts,and have easy to get on the site so that poeple that have gt can see what they are worth to other opelers .to keep the gold mines of coming up and killing us.

if any one want number for the cars, i have listed let me know .

thank you for all the help
ben
a opeler forever
 

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Hope this helps

Ben; It might help to tell folks what happens to the value of a car when its been parked outside for years! All rubber everything has to be replaced, things start to rust, interiors get hard and crack! headlight cables freeze, in fact I think just about every part of the car is affected, by the hot sun, and then the moisture from the winter freeze. And thats not to mention what happens to the gas tanks, after a few years, with gas left in them! From what I can gather about the value of GT's, they have a better chance of getting a gold mine for them if they are parked in a dry, non temperature changing environment. Otherwise the new buyer, has to repair just about every part of the car, which is much different from the memory of the person saying, "everything was fine when I parked it 5 years ago".
 

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Wow, My car is most definity a level 7. the nose needs replaced lower doors are rusted the floor pans are rotted out. the headlight buckets and lower fenders and rockers are rotted but the quarters and shell of the car are not bad. The paint is chipping off and the 1.1 needs rebuilt it has bad rings. the interior is not bad i need a passanger door glass and some carpet and new armrests but overall not bad the dash needs replaced also. the car did run but had bad compression thats why im replacing the rings in it. the nose part that by the foglamps was completly made out of bondo and cracked in hald and is now hanging the piece that goes below the radiator in the nose is made of wood and there are some small rust holes in the windshiled frame and such
i think im a level 7, I also recieved it for free so it makes the better
Point of haveing this car?
A. I love it
B. It was free
C. Im just crazy enough to do a full nut and bolt restoration on it
D. Im crazy
Mike,
 

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1971 Opel GT
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in my garage i have an opel i bought and drove home for 800.

brakes were iffy. engine fired right up. interior was 'clean' tho the carpets were brittle on the sidewalls. engine clearly had SOME work doen to it, as did the radiator (bought it from the local radiator shop). Bout 5 different colors of primer but all four fenders were replaced (YEAH!) even tho the dude parked it in the barn after that, and the rear passeneger panel looked to have lost a war with a falling 4x4 board, and the front corner looked to have a tractor hitch backed into it next to the front turn signal can. (which i've been working on for the last dayactually)

Yes. thats a master cylinder leak under the car. the only leak i've found yet. Aside from the carb coughing up a lung after driving (during, ok?) home from school, i've never had a problem with it. oh. cept the parking break. heh.

talked him down from 1000. took it home the next day. i wanted an opel. he had one. i MIGHT have paid too much, but like said earlier, its in the eyes of the beholder.
 

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Don't worry about it! Mine is probabaly a 6 or 7 if I am realistic about it!

But I love the thing and keep throwing money at it to make it more of what I want out of the car. The interesting thing is that it is probably MUCH slower than the base Taurus that is my daily driver, but I am working on that! I have a 2.0L build going on in my garage that should help...
 

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GT value

I just payed 300.00 dollars Us for a 71 GT, that had been keep in the covered storage since 1974. the owner would drive it about 2 times per month and it now has 38,000 original miles on it. I put a new battery in it and it started right up and I drove it around the block. paint looks great, the interior needs a little TLC but other than that it is great.

how is that for value.

Jaxs
 

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2006 is a new year and prices/values are subjective

A classic or antique car is worth whatever the buyer is willing to pay.

BTW there was a 99.75% nearest to perfect (highest score ever in the history of the OMC) GT at the OMC picnic last year 2005 and it was purchased for $20,000.00 so I think Charles Goin needs to rethink his evaluations.

I for one think the Opel GT is way under-valued.

I have been asked why I keep driving the value of the Opel GT up,

the question is why not ?

What would any Opel owner want their car to do depreciate?
A collectable car is supposed to APPRECIATE.

I would think all Opel owners would like to see the cars they own appreciate but then I could be wrong?
 

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The Moderators have been talking about reducing the amount of fun, amusing, but otherwise value-less banter in some of the threads, specifically in the Technical and GT/Manta Forums. This thread is an example of one that had a lot of merit and has some very good posts, but has been pretty much overwhelmed by numerous off-topic and otherwise value-less posts, thereby making it tedious and time consuming to read for content.

So if you happen to get the urge to attach a less-than-informational post, don't be surprised/disappointed/PO'd if you find your post deleted. I think I have deleted about twenty posts from this thread alone that don't really provide any useful information, and have split off another few that were :eek:fftopic: (maybe sort of "on-topic", but many were questions about the "value" of that person's car, not adding to the description of what MADE the car have the value).

If you have comments about this policy, or wish to engage in discussion that generally doesn't contribute to a Tech or Opel Forum, please feel free to start (or add to) a thread in the General Discussions Forum. In that Forum, just about ANYTHING goes, and will usually be left unmolested.

HTH and thank you.
 

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These Values are surprisingly dead on. My opelgt 1971 was appraised for 4000$ Canadian. That's with very good original interior, all original Engine tranny, clutch all in very good working order and decent paint job ( some bondo). Solid daily driver but could use some freshening up. I guess this would be level 4. It's a little depression that a 12,000$ investment into my future restoration would only yeild a 4500-6000 $ value in US funds, or a level 3, but I guess it all about the passion and the fun....That said I've often been offered 4000-5000$US for my car in it's present shape so go figer..
 

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These Values are surprisingly dead on. My opelgt 1971 was appraised for 4000$ Canadian. That's with very good original interior, all original Engine tranny, clutch all in very good working order and decent paint job ( some bondo). Solid daily driver but could use some freshening up. I guess this would be level 4. It's a little depression that a 12,000$ investment into my future restoration would only yeild a 4500-6000 $ value in US funds, or a level 3, but I guess it all about the passion and the fun....
If you have receipts, many insurance companies will consider increasing the insured value. Also, quite a few insurance companies will insure for more if you pay a lot more money. You aren't forced to use any one company.
 

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Wow, My car is most definity a level 7. the nose needs replaced lower doors are rusted the floor pans are rotted out. the headlight buckets and lower fenders and rockers are rotted but the quarters and shell of the car are not bad. The paint is chipping off and the 1.1 needs rebuilt it has bad rings......

Point of haveing this car?
A. I love it
B. It was free
C. Im just crazy enough to do a full nut and bolt restoration on it
D. Im crazy
Mike,
I know this is an old post but I figured I would mention a few other tid bits..

First off to answer Mike.. All of the above and (2x) D

But aren't we all a little


Lastly.. you can't argue with Free

That said, being its a 1.1L that's another matter. Since they are exceedingly rare, it makes it worth restoring a 6 or 7, since few exist in any other condition. This is where NADA and Manhiem are WRONG.. the 1.1L increases value not decreases.. ! Manhiem deducts $400 from the value of a 1.9L where it should be a 1.1L adds about $500.

Also should point out the value guides often don't consider the differences in some makes and models.

Some people will pay more for a 69-70 because of better horsepower

Some will pay more for a 71-73 due to the pop-out windows

Some will pay more for the 73 due to the tail lights and improved suspensions..

In Mantas/Asconas,

Value of a model with the Sunroof option car is usually worth more because they are rare, its a nice feature and one you can't easily install.

Unmolested '75 Mantas/Asconas are also worth more due to their brakes and motor

In most Opels an automatic is considered a negative.. due to HP drag.. but then there are others that will pay a premium for the rarer Automatic GTs and Mantas..

These are all things to consider in valuing your Opel or when buying one.

I.E. Say your looking to restore a GT for the wife who wants A/C and a Automatic.. that would make the value of a GT with those options worth more to me than one without it. I would be willing to pay a $1000 premium on a #3 with those options. Since if I don't I will probably have to pay close to $1000 just to install A/C.
 
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