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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here are a couple pictures of what is going to be my project. I’m taking it over from a forum member I work with. An almost completely disassembled ‘71. I’ll be looking for a paint and body shop in central Connecticut shortly.
Coming with 4 engines, one of them should be salvageable. Lol
I’m looking forward to some “hanger flying” here while I get it back on the road.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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I got my GTX car as an almost totally stripped shell. I like to go parts hunting, so it was actually big fun for me to gather what was needed. Plus, many missing parts encouraged me to make my own stuff and mods and/or buy upgrade, instead of oem, stuff.

With the tail panel yet to be installed, you have one of the rare opportunities for a GTer to access the hidden nooks and crannies above the back of the wheel wells and other areas that are normally inaccessable. I painted the entire inside of my GTX car with POR15. (My car had many hard to reach areas that had welding performed on them and I really needed to seal up those highly rust-prone welds.)
 

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It is not central CT, but I can highly recommend Wyman Auto in Gorham, ME. They do both standard body repairs and restorations and, in my opinion, the work is top drawer. The cost/hour is low compared with other restoration shops I am familiar with, but they are very thorough, which will translate into a fairly pricey repair. However, one does get what one pays for. My '71 was found to have rust in all of the usual places -- behind the front wheels and both in front of and behind the rear wheels. Total time billed was 435 hours. That, plus the fact that the paint (Ferrari Giallo Modeno 102, otherwise known as Ferrari Light Yellow) is one of the most expensive colors on the shelf, made for a fairly expensive restoration. But what the hell! Funding a car restoration is sort of like dropping a big rock into the pond and watching it disappear without a ripple.
 

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My body shop is in Northern Westchester, NY (Bedford Hills, right down the street from my shop). Same thing as above, it will not be cheap AND it will take quite a bit of time but you can see the work that he does by looking at my car. You would have to check with him to see if he wants to take it on.
 

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I used to work at a restoration shop in Bristol, CT. It's called Academy Classic Auto. The owner's name is Jesse Morten.

He's not cheap, but he's not the most expensive game in town either.

His quality of work however, is awesome.

He is capable of all forms of metalwork as well as normal bodywork and paint. And he can cater to everything from crash repair work to concours restorations, priced accordingly.

HTH.
 

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I used to work at a restoration shop in Bristol, CT. It's called Academy Classic Auto. The owner's name is Jesse Morten.

He's not cheap, but he's not the most expensive game in town either.

His quality of work however, is awesome.

He is capable of all forms of metalwork as well as normal bodywork and paint. And he can cater to everything from crash repair work to concours restorations, priced accordingly.

HTH.
The question is, when are you going to get your garage built and open shop? New England Opelers need you.
 

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The question is, when are you going to get your garage built and open shop? New England Opelers need you.
Setback after setback with the shop. Still trying.

No plans to open a shop up to the public, just gonna tinker with my stuff and make the occasional part to sell.
 
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Setback after setback with the shop. Still trying.

No plans to open a shop up to the public, just gonna tinker with my stuff and make the occasional part to sell.
Bob, I feel your pain. I've been trying to get a shop built for over three years here in Thurston County, WA. This county is a real PIA.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I’ll be looking for the Goldilocks shop. Not concours but better than just good enough to pass a TUV. I’d like it to last another 20 or 30 years
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Crazy thoughts. Was showing the car to a friend and explained about the rear panel, spot welds , pop rivets, and limited access to the aft section. He commented I should just put on nut plates and use counter sink screws to attach the rear. Lol. At first I laughed at the idea but now looking at it again it doesn’t sound that crazy. Lol.
 

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Crazy thoughts. Was showing the car to a friend and explained about the rear panel, spot welds , pop rivets, and limited access to the aft section. He commented I should just put on nut plates and use counter sink screws to attach the rear. Lol. At first I laughed at the idea but now looking at it again it doesn’t sound that crazy. Lol.
Sounds like a great moisture trap for rust to start.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Done properly no worse than pop rivets or spot welds concerning rust.
Back to reality,
Is it more common to weld them back on at the holes where the spot welds were drilled out or run a full seam weld around it. Or fill in the holes and tack it at the mating seam?
 

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Done properly no worse than pop rivets or spot welds concerning rust.
Back to reality,
Is it more common to weld them back on at the holes where the spot welds were drilled out or run a full seam weld around it. Or fill in the holes and tack it at the mating seam?
Back to reality, it's no worse than pop rivets but it's definitely worse than spot welds. The inside of the hole where the screw/rivet goes through will wick up water (capillary action) where with a spot weld there is no way for water to get to the inside of the hole or panel.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I was thinking it would be worse around the seam where the material overlapped. Not at the welded points on the outside but between the sheets near the welds.
I’m hoping to have the holes filled when the time comes and a bead run all around. Lol. If I see a quote for it I might change my mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
While I’m getting ready to strip and paint i was thinking about the rebuild process. I’m assuming one of the first things I’ll need to do is install the wiring harness. I haven’t seen anyone offering a new loom. Are there any available or maybe a source for OEM connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Nevermind the wire harness question. I found them on a German web site. 400 Euro for what is supposed to be a 100% original main harness. Lights for another 200. As bonus it comes ready for the intermittent wiper option. ?.
 

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Nevermind the wire harness question. I found them on a German web site. 400 Euro for what is supposed to be a 100% original main harness. Lights for another 200. As bonus it comes ready for the intermittent wiper option. ?.
You might PM opelspyder here. I believe he makes color correct new repro OEM type harnesses and can customize them to your specs (intermittent wipers, electric windows, etc).
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Nevermind the wire harness question. I found them on a German web site. 400 Euro for what is supposed to be a 100% original main harness. Lights for another 200. As bonus it comes ready for the intermittent wiper option. ?.

You might PM opelspyder here. I believe he makes color correct new repro OEM type harnesses and can customize them to your specs (intermittent wipers, electric windows, etc).
Thanks, I’ll do that. I’m thinking better to spend a bit of money to get that right instead of having to pull everything back off in 6 months due to electrical gremlins. I hadn’t even thought about electric locks or windows. The only change I had considered was tucking a red LED strip up and out of direct sight in one of the vents over the rear window as third brake light. All the people driving tall flat nosed vehicles makes me wonder if they’d even see me in the Opel, let alone my brake lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
With a Long background in aviation i can’t help but think the same way about a car restoration. I’m starting to inquire with the body shops who know Opels, any suggestions on the rear differential and transmission? As long as the transmission was sitting out with the engines it seems a good time to clean out the 50 year old grease, replace the seals and check for synchro wear. Any tips on that? Once those come back I can rebuild the rear brakes. With any luck I’ll finish rebuilding the front suspension and brakes about that time.
 
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