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Bikini Inspector
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if that is the worst of it, and you have a tail panel and all the missing parts.... keep rockin.

it is super rare to fins a perfect belly pan. the battery acid causes the battery tray to rust at the seams an then it spreads from there.

fiberglass belly pan are available and high quality.

I would get a better GT.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
You can buy replacement metal for all of that area. Or, buy a donor. Trust me, you still haven't found all the rust. Dipping the chassis in an electrolysis bath should really help bring out the weak areas.
I guess I’ll have it stripped and then do an inspection. If it looks hopeless I’ll declare it as available for parts. I’d like to think it’s salvageable. I still get to evaluate the four engines and transmissions once I decide on the chassis.
Thanks for the guidance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
if that is the worst of it, and you have a tail panel and all the missing parts.... keep rockin.

it is super rare to fins a perfect belly pan. the battery acid causes the battery tray to rust at the seams an then it spreads from there.

fiberglass belly pan are available and high quality.

I would get a better GT.
The tail panel is in my garage. I’ve got what he says is a NOS battery tray as well. He keeps finding more. Supposed to be a complete new interior in the box coming in the next load. More headers and exhaust manifolds than I could ever use
 

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Über Genius
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People who don't like body work would call it a total loss but I've brought back worse ones from the dead.
My son, at 25, fixed a LOT more than that.

Some people would writ off a perfect body GT with a seized engine. Now, to me, that's GOLD!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
People who don't like body work would call it a total loss but I've brought back worse ones from the dead.
My son, at 25, fixed a LOT more than that.

Some people would writ off a perfect body GT with a seized engine. Now, to me, that's GOLD!!
I’ve got enough experience rebuilding aircraft engines and powertrains to know my limits. I was thinking there is a fair bit of body rot but from what I’ve seen in this and the German forum, it’s far from the worst. I would rather give it to a talented professional and pay them to do the body work right the first time. I lack the training, tools, and experience to do it first time right. I don’t want to spent the next couple years hacking on it only to take it to a pro to fix my learning mistakes. If I can arrange to have a good Body in the garage by spring I’m happy. To refurbish and assemble the rwmaining subassemblies will be my tasks. From what I’ve read here I will be able to do most of the engine work but will get a tranny shop to clean and relive the transmission and rear end.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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The tail panel is in my garage. I’ve got what he says is a NOS battery tray as well. He keeps finding more. Supposed to be a complete new interior in the box coming in the next load. More headers and exhaust manifolds than I could ever use
Wow! It looks like you've got some nice stuff there!

:yup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
The tail panel is in my garage. I’ve got what he says is a NOS battery tray as well. He keeps finding more. Supposed to be a complete new interior in the box coming in the next load. More headers and exhaust manifolds than I could ever use
Wow! It looks like you've got some nice stuff there!

<img src="http://www.opelgt.com/forums/images/smilies/yup.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Yup" class="inlineimg" />
This is just the first load. Somewhere there is a Weber on an intake. A couple loose Weber as well. A complete Sport Wagon interior and grills is also there. I’ll get more in the next week or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Body shop said that with stripping and sheet metal fabrication followed by paint i can expect close to $5000 to get back a fully restored body ready to bolt back together.
 

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Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
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Wow. Including paint, that's actually not bad. What color are you going to paint it? You could stick to the original color, or you could pursue your own dream color for the car. Only you can decide this, and it's never easy. Have you thought about spraying a truck bed liner like LineX on the undercarriage? I mention LineX because they have a lifetime warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Wow. Including paint, that's actually not bad. What color are you going to paint it? You could stick to the original color, or you could pursue your own dream color for the car. Only you can decide this, and it's never easy. Have you thought about spraying a truck bed liner like LineX on the undercarriage? I mention LineX because they have a lifetime warranty.
Lol. It was actually him asking what I was willing / Able to spend. I told him I was thinking around 5 grand. He looked at again and said „I’ll use every bit of that but then it’ll be done right“.

75 bucks an hour with lots of hours. About 600 just to have it blasted clean. He thought he could use the fiberglass belly pan I have as template to fix up the battery tray rust. He did suggest a place to get the rear end and transmission cleaned, inspected, and lubed.

I was going to ask if people used an under coat and if so which. Thanks for the tip.
Although the original red would be the right thing to do, every car I’ve owned has been blue and I do love the lemans blue.
 

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Über Genius
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When my son was working at a production body shop they had a special.
It really didn't matter what kind of car you brought in, for $5K (plus parts) they'd run it through "the program".

That's where they fix you car, amazingly well, but they did it whenever there was no other work to do. Some cars could get done in a few weeks. One took over a year. But they all turned out amazing.
 
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Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
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If you're thinking of the gorgeous factory metallic blue color, it's strato blue poly (aka metallic). PPG paint charts list it as Opel code HH 236 for 1969, with Ditzler (PPG) code number 13819 for acrylic lacquer or 13829 for enamel. Belgium production had the following for strato blue: Lucite code was 8487L, Dulux code was 8487D. German production had 8474L and 8474D for strato blue. In 1971, the codes changed. The Opel code became DD-H L-235, with Ditzler code number 14171 for Detroit sourced paint or 14172 for Torrance, CA sourced paint.

Looks like the following websites can help with sourcing the paint...

Color Chip Selection

Color Codes - Strato Blue Paint Cross-Reference

Attached are some of the better pics I took from the Opel Nationals with the 50th Anniversary of the GT... It's a strato blue, which is my second favorite color on the GT and my favorite factory color.
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
@scifi guy, I learned welding and matching early in my career. I sucked at it then , hence I became a process engineer. ?.
I’d rather pay once to get it right than attempt it myself only to pay more later to correct my fumbling attempts.
While I was talking to the shop owner etwas grumbling about a customer repair they were correcting on another car.
 

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Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
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I'm going to guess that I gave you enough info for a shop to look up the paint formulation. If you do get strato blue, you should get the mixing formulation if possible for your records with a finished paint sample. Not everyone thinks of getting a paint sample for your records but it can help with knowing what the paint looked like when new if you ever have to repair it.
 

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Über Genius
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Last I knew, Gil had Strato Blue available.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
Strait blue. I’ll give the body shop the codes.
Very frustrated. I moved the dash yesterday and broke off the lower bar on the dash. The insert isn’t there to add rigidity and so now I’ve got a problem with my crack free dash. I’m thinking it won’t be visible once installed but is annoying.
 

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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
At least now I know the reason it was originally taken off the road and disassembly begin. A massive short after the high school aged previous owner tried to get it through inspection. Zip zap pop sizzle sit
 
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