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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Many thanks to Bob who stopped by over the weekend. I’ll be getting settled and start laying out all the parts he identified as being GT. While the bodies out I’ll be cleaning inspecting and sourcing parts for build. Doing it just like I would a rebuild at work.
I can tell that without an expert looking over my shoulder just identifying some parts would be almost impossible with them loose in a box.
 

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Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
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Study enough build threads, look at enough online parts suppliers and you start to get a good idea for what goes where. It takes time. I knew before I get a GT that I want to know a lot about the sub assemblies and components, what belongs to what. That takes time, and allows for a clear picture of what you want to do. Now I'm looking at getting a GT soon, didn't get it this weekend but will soon enough. The family that owns the one I'll buy isn't in a hurry and I could use a few weeks to get some ducks in a row.
 

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Discussion Starter · #63 ·
My next mission is to get shelving in the garage and to start the ID, inventory, & inspect process. I’ve got a German excel sheet that is supposed to be a mostly complete BOM. I’ll be using that as a guide to figuring things out with some photo exchanges. With luck I’ll have the chassis back from the body shop by spring. Still undecided on theeventual engine build level.
 

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Discussion Starter · #65 ·
Join the Dark Side and build a 2.4. <img src="http://www.opelgt.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Cool" class="inlineimg" />
It is a thought. If I understand correctly all I’d really need is a 2.4 head and crank from ole Germany. All the other bits and pieces are the same.
 

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Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
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Join the Dark Side and build a 2.4. <img src="http://www.opelgt.com/forums/images/smilies/cool.gif" border="0" alt="" title="Cool" class="inlineimg" />
It is a thought. If I understand correctly all I’d really need is a 2.4 head and crank from ole Germany. All the other bits and pieces are the same.
No... no they are not. The 2.4 block is different. It has the needed clearances for the stroke. You’re gonna spend a lot of money having a 1.9 block machined for the proper clearances. You might as well just buy a donor 2.4 from Germany. And you’re probably going to want the Getrag.

If you just want more displacement, Charles is putting together a 2.3 turbo diesel crank kit for the 1.9 that will allow you to increase displacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
I drove a Golf GTD in Germany. I’d be more than happy with a turbo diesel GT.

Im still not sure what engine I’ll have when finished. I’ve got four donors I’ll be stripping down to see what’s good. I’m not looking for fire breathing power, but a bump in PS would be a nice side effect of improving the breathing.

The amount of stiffening and drive line strengthening needed for the PS of a 2.4 makes it sound like a major change not just a boost in umpf.

I’m currently undecided if that is worth it.
 

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It’s just the crank rods and pistons from a diesel CIH.
Just the crank actually! With aftermarket rods and pistons.

The diesel block is 45 mm taller than the gasoline CIH engines. Would be tough to put 92 mm diesel pistons into a 95 mm bore. Then there’s that pesky deck height issue...lol.
 
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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
It’s just the crank rods and pistons from a diesel CIH.
Just the crank actually! With aftermarket rods and pistons.

The diesel block is 45 mm taller than the gasoline CIH engines. Would be tough to put 92 mm diesel pistons into a 95 mm bore. Then there’s that pesky deck height issue...lol.
With ultra short rods for the long stroke in a short block the piston skirts must come mighty close to the crank counter weights
 

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Im still not sure what engine I’ll have when finished. I’ve got four donors I’ll be stripping down to see what’s good. I’m not looking for fire breathing power, but a bump in PS would be a nice side effect of improving the breathing.
I think I started to mention this to you on Sunday, but I have a spare set of used/forged 2.0 pistons pressed onto a set of forged Opel rods. All you’d need to do is bore one of your existing 1.9 blocks (all low compression BTW) and fit these pistons and you’d get a bump up to 2.0 liters plus a compression increase.
 

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Discussion Starter · #74 ·
I think I started to mention this to you on Sunday, but I have a spare set of used/forged 2.0 pistons pressed onto a set of forged Opel rods. All you’d need to do is bore one of your existing 1.9 blocks (all low compression BTW) and fit these pistons and you’d get a bump up to 2.0 liters plus a compression increase.
That sounds like a really nice combination.
I’d be interested in building around that.
 

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Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
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I think once I’ve gotten engine torn down and cleaned it'll look much more doable.
Right now it’s a grim encrusted enigma.
I’d soak the engine. Whenever I get ready to start the rebuild on the 2.4, I’m going to do an electrolysis bath on the block and cylinder head. Should remove any rust without seriously piting important surfaces.
 

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Discussion Starter · #79 ·
I think once I’ve gotten engine torn down and cleaned it'll look much more doable.
Right now it’s a grim encrusted enigma.
I’d soak the engine. Whenever I get ready to start the rebuild on the 2.4, I’m going to do an electrolysis bath on the block and cylinder head. Should remove any rust without seriously piting important surfaces.
I’ve not heard of doing an electrolysis bath. I’m thinking engine , trans , and rear end should all get a thorough clean and inspect.
 

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Electrolysis is a pretty cheap but friendly way to remove rust, unlike an acid bath. Acid baths will eat away at metal, and will remove rust but leave behind pitted surfaces. If you leave metal in an acid bath for too long, it will really damage the part. But, you have to be careful with an electrolysis bath because not long after you remove the part, flash rusting becomes an issue. So you need to plan on coating or painting the bare metal fairly soon. Distilled white vinegar is also good for removing rust, but for large parts I wouldn't go this route.

Electrolysis uses electricity, a carbon or steel based cathode, and soda ash. Soda ash is water mixed with sodium carbonate, roughly 1 tablepoon per gallon. You want to get the pH to around 11. Once you're finished, if you're worried about dumping a lot of soda ash into the sewer (which you shouldn't do), you can use citric acid to neutralize the soda ash. The funny thing about that, water + sodium carbonate + citric acid creates fizzy sherbet.
 
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