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Detroit,where my home was
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2,896 Posts
This is looking good Magnus, how did you make the fiberglass hood and reinforcement piece, did you make a mold from the original?
 

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Super Moderator
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13,485 Posts
I agree, it looks very good Magnus.

I have one question however. Is there enough room to allow the tires to move 'up' without striking the arches?

Regards,
Bob
 

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Super Moderator
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5,296 Posts
CIH FI Alu injector blocks

That's called 'overspray'.....:D

They look like the phenolic ones to me, with some silver paint on them.

Bob
I dunno, I still think they're phenolic plates, and the injector bungs look epoxied in place to me, then painted silver. Perhaps Magnus will comment on how he did the fitment.

Bob
. . . rare, YES!, but I can assure everyone that they are indeed aluminum, like these I got from a German friend of mine a few years ago . . .

 

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Mender
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #24
This is looking good Magnus, how did you make the fiberglass hood and reinforcement piece, did you make a mold from the original?
Yes I made a fold from original.
Heres the beginning of the trunk-lid.

Just cover the holes with tape so the polyester doesnt runs on the backside and locks.



I agree, it looks very good Magnus.

I have one question however. Is there enough room to allow the tires to move 'up' without striking the arches?

Regards,
Bob
I hope it clears. I think the tolerance will be at least 4-5 centimeters
I`ll make the car as stiff as possible , therefore I bought theese LEDA coilovers.



On my daily driven Ascona I have Bilstein mounted (shortened original springs)rim dimension 8x16 tiredimension 215/45. The left tire strikes the arch when I drive into a bump with the kids in the back. I have about 4 centimeters clearance from the arch down to the tire (empty car).



Hope you understand ?
 

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Detroit,where my home was
Joined
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2,896 Posts
This is looking good Magnus, how did you make the fiberglass hood and reinforcement piece, did you make a mold from the original?
Yes I made a fold from original.
Heres the beginning of the trunk-lid.

Just cover the holes with tape so the polyester doesnt runs on the backside and locks.

:cool: If possible, could you do a photo report how you make your trunck lid and with which materials?? :D
 

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Mender
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #26 (Edited)
:cool: If possible, could you do a photo report how you make your trunck lid and with which materials?? :D
Ok !! I will try.

Heres the things you need.
Most of it comes from a local boatstore. The bigger amount you buy of everything the cheeper it gets (price per kilo).

Wax (rather without silicone) I use Carnaubawax
Polyvinylalcohol. Makes the mold come off easier.
Sponge
Polyester + hardener
Gelcoat
Glasfiber cloth
Acetone (for cleaning the tools)
Disposable brush (can be used several times if its cleaned)
A couple of different rollers to work the air out of the mat
A pair of scissors
Rubber gloves
Facemask (polyester really stinks)
Floorprotection (its quite messy)


Step 1: Cover all holes you dont want with tape. Make sure the polyester cant slink in between so it locks the mold to the original.

Step 2: Treat the surface with wax. Polish

Step 3: Treat the surface with polyvinylalcohol. Apply with a moisturized sponge. Let it dry and repeat the procedure. Let it dry.

Step 4: Mix gelcoat and hardener. Brush it out to approximate 0,5 mm layer.Clean the brush.

Step 5: Coffeetime , whilst the gelcoat gels

Step 6: Mix polyester and hardener. Dont mix too much at a time, 3 deciliters is enough to start with. Apply polyester and apply the mat. Make sure to wet it well. When its wet it becomes almost transparent , work the air out.
Sharp corners and edges is the most difficult to get right. Be accurate in thoose places. Tare or cut the mat into pieces. The best way is to tare the mat when yoy need small pieces. You get a more durable overlapping with a tared mat than a cut mat.
The more layer with mat and polyester, the thicker the mold will be.

Step 7: Wait at least 24 hours for the mold to harden.

Disassembly the mold from the original. Hopefully it comes loose. If it doesent you have done a bad ground work.
Clean the mold from polyvinylacohol with water.

Practice on a small surface first.

I hope you can follow this "manual" and succed in making molds.

Moderators:: Please edit the text if theres something wrong

Almost all the things you need
Applying the polyvinylalcohol
Make sure covering all holes where the polyester can slink in and deadlock
Gelcoat applied , waiting for it to gel
 

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Its a great project keep us posted.Your fiberglass parts are really good.Can you give more info on the engine?From which volvo did the pistons came from and from which Saab the conrods?Did you have to work on them to get them to fit?I hope its finished soon looks great
 

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Mender
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #33
The pistons comes from Volvo B230FT and the rods are modified H-beam steel rods fitting SAAB 9000 2,3.
I had to modify both the pistons and the rods.
The pistons were cut off 0,6 millimeters on the top

Today you can buy these rods bolt on from Sten Parner Motor instead of modifying SAAB-rods

Price 1225 SEK /each with ARP-bolts.
 

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Opeler Ascona B
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58 Posts
Very good work. The bonnet is Look 400 nice.But look what Bob Rally says about the wheel arches.I think me too that you have a problem in rear arches...and dont make the rear so stiff...You have so many rust how's that?You must see inside of the front sassis to see, i think that with so much rust you must replace them...
 

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Mender
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35 Posts
Discussion Starter #38
We´ll see about the wheelarches. It might be the case that they not clears.
The rust is because the car lives in Sweden. We have the "National Road Administration" they like to salt the roads when they are snowy and icy. Opels dont like salt. The longer upnorth you come the less salt is used.
 
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