pros and cons between the pertronix and allison electrionic ignitions?
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
I assume that when you say allison you are talking about what OGTS sells. What they sell is the crane system now. A friend and I did kind of a side by side comparison of these two. He has petronix and I have crane. Petronix uses a hall effect sensor where crane uses an emitor and detector light system at the distributor. Petronix goes straight to the coil and crane has a 3x4 electronic box to control everything. Both were very easy to install and in these two cases have worked flawlessly. I personally like the led for point emulation on the crane. I can pull the distributor and put it back without using a timing light. The petronix can be had for around 50 bucks but from what I have read however most people change the coil too. The crane is around 100 depending on where you buy it. I couldn't tell you about problems people have had but I have seen the petronix debugged on this site a few times. I don't know if this is a reflection on the product or just the number of them out there. The reverse is what I have seen on the crane. I did searches for both here and there is quite a bit on petronix and very little on the crane. I guess it is a personal choice thing and about cost too. JM2CW
Joined
·
5,299 Posts
Pertronix . . .
I am a huge "electronic ignition triggering" fan for admittedly personal reasons, the primary one being that I'm a bit anal about maintaining my engines and drivetrain in "peak tuned" condition at all times. When I modify anything, I want to do it just once and NEVER have to redo it again. Can't get there with points, guys!!
Three things sold me on using Pertronix vs. all the rest of the "electronic triggers" available: complete containment within the distributor (stealthy), zero maintenance once installed and long term reliability, the latter of which I can most certainly attest to . . . have had one in my '73 GT since ~'78!
The ONLY Pertronix problems occur when NOT following their very explicit and detailed installation instructions. Let me clear up one other misconception while I'm at it. You do NOT need to replace whatever coil you are using before installing the Pertronix.nobody said:
I am a huge "electronic ignition triggering" fan for admittedly personal reasons, the primary one being that I'm a bit anal about maintaining my engines and drivetrain in "peak tuned" condition at all times. When I modify anything, I want to do it just once and NEVER have to redo it again. Can't get there with points, guys!!
Three things sold me on using Pertronix vs. all the rest of the "electronic triggers" available: complete containment within the distributor (stealthy), zero maintenance once installed and long term reliability, the latter of which I can most certainly attest to . . . have had one in my '73 GT since ~'78!
Joined
·
184 Posts
I've got a Pertronix and love it...goodbye to points forever. I think most of the installation problems has to do with the much misunderstood "clear resistor wire" that is dear to our Opels. If you do hook it up as the instructions state, there are no problems and it works great.
Joined
·
457 Posts
I'm ready to go the electronic ignition route.....glad to hear from Otto that my fairly new coil wont have to be replaced with the Pertronix however I AM one of the ones that could wire the thing in wrong....something about electrical...if I could work on it with a wrench I'd be alot better at it.
I still don't understand the differences between the light vs. magnetic systems, or the advantages of each.....I just want something that will work best on a car that has an older version 1.9 w/solid lifters, bored 20 over, weber, sprint exhaust, and 2" pipe...and is easy to install. I don't mind spending the extra for the Allison set-up if its actually more dependable but I'd rather spend less for the Pertronix if it's JUST as dependable.
I had something like this (seems it was a Crane but I'm not sure) on a Manta about 25 yrs ago (like some erector set pieces plus a disk with holes in it to replace the rotor) and I eventually took it off because the car seemed to run better with points....also it seems I had trouble getting the tach to work after I installed it. It sounds like today's versions are better.
I still don't understand the differences between the light vs. magnetic systems, or the advantages of each.....I just want something that will work best on a car that has an older version 1.9 w/solid lifters, bored 20 over, weber, sprint exhaust, and 2" pipe...and is easy to install. I don't mind spending the extra for the Allison set-up if its actually more dependable but I'd rather spend less for the Pertronix if it's JUST as dependable.
I had something like this (seems it was a Crane but I'm not sure) on a Manta about 25 yrs ago (like some erector set pieces plus a disk with holes in it to replace the rotor) and I eventually took it off because the car seemed to run better with points....also it seems I had trouble getting the tach to work after I installed it. It sounds like today's versions are better.
Petronix part no.
Hey guys! I need your help again, can anyone direct me to any previous threads on replacing the old contact point to a petronix on a 1978 manta B. Need to get the part no. and a few question. Would I be needing to anything on the distributor or it just a straight bolt on.
thanks,
Jon
Hey guys! I need your help again, can anyone direct me to any previous threads on replacing the old contact point to a petronix on a 1978 manta B. Need to get the part no. and a few question. Would I be needing to anything on the distributor or it just a straight bolt on.
thanks,
Jon
Joined
·
3,460 Posts
Jon, here's the product review and the part nos. and contact info. http://www.opelgt.com/rp/showproduct.php/product/9/sort/2/cat/3/page/3
Also do a search for Pertronics in the ignition section here. I also noticed that U.S Ebay has them, although a little higher than Bugstuff. I believe you're in luck too, around Thanksgiving they have a sale. HTH, Jarrell
Also do a search for Pertronics in the ignition section here. I also noticed that U.S Ebay has them, although a little higher than Bugstuff. I believe you're in luck too, around Thanksgiving they have a sale. HTH, Jarrell
Joined
·
1,127 Posts
Do a search for Tekenar's 12 step program- answers everythingJEspina_B said:Hey guys! I need your help again, can anyone direct me to any previous threads on replacing the old contact point to a petronix on a 1978 manta B. Need to get the part no. and a few question. Would I be needing to anything on the distributor or it just a straight bolt on.
thanks,
Jon
Joined
·
874 Posts
As long as we are on the subject, how much 'motor' is the Pertronix good for? I have a Flamethrower/Pertronix and it works well, but saw this post from RallyBob a while back and have been thinking about it ever since. I have a 2L head now and plan a DGAS38 and ported intake manifold soon.
==============================================
*****Just FYI, those of you that have installed the Pertronix must realize that while it's a great upgrade from points (I won't even consider running points), it is not enough for a reasonably modified engine. I was given this reminder today, when the Opel I was driving had the ignition die today (a friend's car with a 136 hp 2.0 litre). Well, he has a Crane XR-700 as a trigger, and a Jacob's computerized ignition with the Ultra Coil. A quick roadside check confirmed no spark, so I assumed the ignition box fried. I went home and grabbed a spare Pertronix, and swapped it on the roadside in short order. The car fired right up, but man, what a dog with the Pertronix and Ultra Coil compared to when the Jacobs ignition was working. A Pertronix may be fine for a stock or nearly stock engine with 70-90 hp, but a modified engine REALLY needs the stronger spark. Idle quality is not as good now, throttle response is WAYYY off compared to before...it's really noticeable.
==============================================
*****Just FYI, those of you that have installed the Pertronix must realize that while it's a great upgrade from points (I won't even consider running points), it is not enough for a reasonably modified engine. I was given this reminder today, when the Opel I was driving had the ignition die today (a friend's car with a 136 hp 2.0 litre). Well, he has a Crane XR-700 as a trigger, and a Jacob's computerized ignition with the Ultra Coil. A quick roadside check confirmed no spark, so I assumed the ignition box fried. I went home and grabbed a spare Pertronix, and swapped it on the roadside in short order. The car fired right up, but man, what a dog with the Pertronix and Ultra Coil compared to when the Jacobs ignition was working. A Pertronix may be fine for a stock or nearly stock engine with 70-90 hp, but a modified engine REALLY needs the stronger spark. Idle quality is not as good now, throttle response is WAYYY off compared to before...it's really noticeable.
Joined
·
1,796 Posts
luminition?
Is the Allison/Crane one the one that took over the LED/slot plate/photo-receiver design from the old Luminition? I had one of those set-ups for almost 10 years and never even had to look at it twice. Great unit.
As to the Pertronics, I use them when I have to, they're a heck of a lot better than points. Install them once, carefully following the instructions, then you almost never have to touch them again.
As a matter of personal preference, though, I prefer the points eliminator that Comp-u-fire sells. Same effect as the Pertronics, just a points eliminator that's all contained in the dist, but I like their execution better. With the Pertronics there's a collar that goes around the dist shaft and the trigger unit reads against the outside edge. The Comp-u-fire uses a disc instead, that passes over the top of the sensor. The magnets are about the same size and strength in both units, but due to the larger arc the disc affords I like to think it gives a quicker spark than the Pertronics. I should check dwell sometime and check, come to think of it. It's also a little easier to get mounted, in my opinion, and a bit more forgiving of a sloppy distributor.
Most VW places sell them along side the pertronics, and here recently they've started carrying an imported Pertronics knock-off called the "Mag-Fire" that's usually about $30-35. I got one to try, looks like a Rertronics, but haven't had anything to put it in yet. At that price it's almost cheaper than a good set of points. Come to think of it, by the time you add in the condensor, it's a coin toss.
Is the Allison/Crane one the one that took over the LED/slot plate/photo-receiver design from the old Luminition? I had one of those set-ups for almost 10 years and never even had to look at it twice. Great unit.
As to the Pertronics, I use them when I have to, they're a heck of a lot better than points. Install them once, carefully following the instructions, then you almost never have to touch them again.
As a matter of personal preference, though, I prefer the points eliminator that Comp-u-fire sells. Same effect as the Pertronics, just a points eliminator that's all contained in the dist, but I like their execution better. With the Pertronics there's a collar that goes around the dist shaft and the trigger unit reads against the outside edge. The Comp-u-fire uses a disc instead, that passes over the top of the sensor. The magnets are about the same size and strength in both units, but due to the larger arc the disc affords I like to think it gives a quicker spark than the Pertronics. I should check dwell sometime and check, come to think of it. It's also a little easier to get mounted, in my opinion, and a bit more forgiving of a sloppy distributor.
Most VW places sell them along side the pertronics, and here recently they've started carrying an imported Pertronics knock-off called the "Mag-Fire" that's usually about $30-35. I got one to try, looks like a Rertronics, but haven't had anything to put it in yet. At that price it's almost cheaper than a good set of points. Come to think of it, by the time you add in the condensor, it's a coin toss.
Joined
·
897 Posts
Pertronix installation instructions, step 3: "Check side play in top distributor bearing. Excessive side play will cause erratic performance [and] must be corrected before installing ignitor."
If you're trying to solve the problem of getting the points to work consistently from idle to high rpm on a high mileage engine, the Pertronix will probably help, but may not entirely solve your problem. The Crane will, however, because it's much more forgiving of wear in the distributor bushing.
For low mileage cars, I like the Pertronix for price as well as the clean installation. On my "beaters" I have Crane ignitions that I bought years before I knew about the Pertronix. They are all still working fine.
Bill
If you're trying to solve the problem of getting the points to work consistently from idle to high rpm on a high mileage engine, the Pertronix will probably help, but may not entirely solve your problem. The Crane will, however, because it's much more forgiving of wear in the distributor bushing.
For low mileage cars, I like the Pertronix for price as well as the clean installation. On my "beaters" I have Crane ignitions that I bought years before I knew about the Pertronix. They are all still working fine.
Bill
Joined
·
326 Posts
I have burned up two Petronix sensors in 3 months....I did not disable the ignition while working on the wiring of the car....keeping the ignition on without the disabling the Petronix will eat the module... the other ignitor I ruined leaving the the key on while I listened to the radio....
Will the Allison Crane unit do the same thing ?? thole sensors are darn expensive.
Will the Allison Crane unit do the same thing ?? thole sensors are darn expensive.
Joined
·
2,892 Posts
Supposedly the pertronix 2 or 3 won’t do that.
The Ignitor II has adaptive dwell and won't burn out if the ignition is left on but the engine isn't running. The Ignitor III adds a programmable RPM limiter. I'm going with the Ignitor II and using a RPM limiting rotor, because I like the old school ways of doing something whenever possible.
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
