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RitchieJ
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43 Posts
Hello,

I have searched this forum for an answer to an ongoing problem: my GT pulls to the right when the brakes are applied, but nothing seems to solve the problem.

Here is what I have tried so far:
1. Brake hoses are new [both sides]
2. Brake calipers are rebuilt [both sides]
3. Brake rotors are new [both sides]
4. Pads are new [both sides]
5. Bearings are new and adjusted [both sides]
6. I have disassembled the left hand caliper to check the operation of the pistons–both worked fine. This was done because popular opinion is that if the right hand brake is grabbing first, than the problem is on the left side.
7. Left side tie-rod end is new [the old one was worn out].
8. Brakes have been bleed MANY times.

What is left? Right side tie-rod end? It seems to be fine, i.e. not sloppy.
Master cylinder problem?... which was also rebuilt.
Bad pipe to the left side front brake from the master?

This, to put it mildly, IS DRIVING ME CRAZY :banghead:
Any help would be greatly appreciated. :veryhappy

Cheers,
James Ritchie
 

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boomerang opeler
Joined
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5,648 Posts
you could check the run out on the hub /disk on left side , if its too much the pads will be pushed back more and so the right will bight first

have a very good look at pipes from MC and look for any pinching on pipe to left side

only other thing i can think of is putting a tee in both sides with a psi gauge in it and seeing if the pressure is even to both sides ( very rare thing i find but can happen ) needs to take a lot of pressure i used to use a liquid filled 1000 psi one
 

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RitchieJ
Joined
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43 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Food for thought. Could it be that your right REAR brake is engaging sooner or More than your left rear?
Yes, I have checked the right rear brake adjustment... but I think I will do it again [both sides], just to make sure. Thanks.
 

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RitchieJ
Joined
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43 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
you could check the run out on the hub /disk on left side , if its too much the pads will be pushed back more and so the right will bight first

have a very good look at pipes from MC and look for any pinching on pipe to left side

only other thing i can think of is putting a tee in both sides with a psi gauge in it and seeing if the pressure is even to both sides ( very rare thing i find but can happen ) needs to take a lot of pressure i used to use a liquid filled 1000 psi one

I did check the pipes from the master, and did not see/feel any pinch.

The pressure idea is a good one-will have to keep it in mind.

I should also mention that this problem did not happen right away after rebuilding the entire front end/brakes, but took a while to show up, about two months. Thanks
 

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Über Genius
Joined
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9,535 Posts
The problem is probably in the left side. Sounds like the caliper is binding on the left front or the pistons are corroded (stuck) in the wheel cylinder.

My experience is that the wheel cylinders corrode pretty quick and will bind.
The calipers sometimes get corroded on the sliders and if they are too loose the caliper will sort of twist.
If you take your pads off the left side, check to make sure they are worn nice and flat with the pad parallel to the metal. If it's wedging at all, then there's your problem.
Wheel cylinders are easy to inspect. Just remove the rubber cap and look for anything but clean metal.

HTH
 

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RitchieJ
Joined
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43 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The problem is probably in the left side. Sounds like the caliper is binding on the left front or the pistons are corroded (stuck) in the wheel cylinder.

My experience is that the wheel cylinders corrode pretty quick and will bind.
The calipers sometimes get corroded on the sliders and if they are too loose the caliper will sort of twist.
If you take your pads off the left side, check to make sure they are worn nice and flat with the pad parallel to the metal. If it's wedging at all, then there's your problem.
Wheel cylinders are easy to inspect. Just remove the rubber cap and look for anything but clean metal.

HTH

I did take apart the left side caliper to check for corrosion, but did not find any. Both pistons looked and worked fine with air pressure. Thanks
 

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Super Moderator
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8,243 Posts
You seem to have answered all of your own questions as to brake problems that might cause the car to pull.

I'd look for damaged or missing suspension bushings.

Harold

P.S. Is the pull momentary, hard, worse turning in one direction than the other, etc.?
 

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Registered
Joined
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94 Posts
i'd also add, make sure the caliper slides are lubricated and everything is moving freely. tire pressure could make a car pull but it would have to be a big difference from one side to the other. i'm guessing it is something small being overlooked. just for curiosity, are all the pads matching? as in all from the same set. different material could grab differently. i've done that before because i'm cheap and my old Dodge didn't care.
 

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Super Moderator
Joined
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8,243 Posts
i'd also add, make sure the caliper slides are lubricated and everything is moving freely. tire pressure could make a car pull but it would have to be a big difference from one side to the other.
Caliper's are a fixed two piston caliper design so there are no slides to grease. Yes tire pressure could cause pulling but wouldn't it be there all of the time. Bearing adjustment could also have some effect on braking.

Harold
 

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Super Moderator
Joined
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6,035 Posts
Perhaps the pads became contaminated with brake fluid, or oil, or ?? Even a small amount of contamination will result in differential pulling. Pull the pads and inspect them or try swapping them. Also inspect the rear shoes for contamination.
 

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Non Civilian
Joined
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2,100 Posts
You put in rebuilt calipers, or rebuilt them yourself? I have had bad luck with both. Any kind of contamination can cause corrosion and this problem. New calipers are the best solution. OGTS has them now, completely new, so nice and pretty too.
 
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