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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hole help need the Down and quick fix dirty fix

Down and dirty fix

Now garageless and among other things I should of fixed while I had a garage I have discovered that the area under my battery exists only to dribble (pour) water onto the fuse box and wiring. Upon further examination I have discovered the area, which previously was under a plate, has more holes in it than the flag that flew above the Alamo.

I know that replacement pieces can be welded on however that takes money so for now until I can get the manta to warmer Climates i need a quick fix as I am in a place that is very wet and the weather is below 50 (actual 40) degrees.

I want a CHEAP temp fix. What would be the best thing to cover the whole area with? Caulk? White silicone? body putty? Glues? liquid weld? rubber cement, fiberglass or another substance? I need something that will hold up for the winter another couple of weeks here in Missouri and then in Las Vegas (where wet weather isn’t quite such a problem). I don’t care about right or pretty for the time being I just need it to stop leaking.

Suggestions?


Bailing in St Louis
 

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foil and glass

In our car stereo install shop, when we make custom removable speaker encolsures we put down aluminum foil and masking tape it in. Once there is a foil covering where we want the panel, then a couple layers of fiberglass is layered over the top. When the fiberglass cures, it can be removed along with the foil from the panel and the remainder tape and foil peeled up and cleaned off.

In your case, once the fiberglass patch panel is made, you can remove it, clean it up, and then either caulk it in place for a relativly long term fix or, for a couple of weeks, just use duct tape. Either way the fix would last for years if it had to, and be relativly quick to remove when you get a chance to "do it right."
 

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Is that a green Manta in your avatar? My first Opel was a green Manta...sigh :(

Anyway, I had the same problem with my Manta. I lived in Iowa at the time, and bought the car with almost 100K on it, and almost all of the underbody was rusted out and patched by the P.O. For the parts still rusted out we took sheet metal (we just used the stuff you get to form furnace ducts -- see Home Depot) and riveted it to the good metal. You could just use sheet metal screws if you want. The sheet metal is very easy to bend and cut, and it's cheap. Just watch out for the edges...very sharp!

You can use some caulk or sealer around the edges to keep water from seeping through.

Definitely not a permanent fix, but gets you by for a couple years anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The sheet metal is a good idea but what about leaking as that doesn't seen so watertight.

I had a metal plate that I thought was the base but it turned out to be glued to a piece of plastic above a screen that had putty and silicone in it....... and it still leaked.

I like oldopelgys idea with the foil and fiberglass and duc tape... that is a classic.
Duc tape rules! It holds the world together. the foil/masking/duck tape/fiberglass route would also make a great trace piece to follow when cutting out the sheet metal.

foil and duck tape.... now that is cheap and might work till I get in a place warm enough to fiberglass.

thanks!

ps yes that is my manta.....
boasty page below
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/470044
 

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Yeah, I like the duc tape idea too. I may have used that if I'd known about it. Sheet metal was just standard operating prodedure for my Dad though. With sealer around the edges I never had leaks. Oldopelguy's solution is probably even simpler and cheaper though.

Just one thought...after you fix the rusted metal, you could have a leaky windshield seal. I have a GT with a rust-free firewall, but the windshield gasket leaks. Like yours, it just happens to find the fuse box (and my foot). Luckily it doesn't rain much in SoCal, so I still haven't fixed it. I just don't drive it the days it rains (about once a month or less in the summer, maybe 5 times a month in the winter unless it's an El Nino year). Actually, it's not running at all right now, but that's another story ;)

BTW, I love your Manta. Brings back memories...yours is in way better shape than mine was. It wasn't a Rally either. Good luck :)
 

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Back when I was spinning wrenches for a living, there was a not so honest used car dealer in the same building. One trick he used on floors was he put a layer of metal tape (aluminum?) that they sell for duct installation (not regular duct tape) then cover that with body putty. The metal tape gave a base for the putty. Spray undercoating over the mess and you would never know (well at least for a year or so) that there were holes there.

Might work for you Calvin, especially if you use the rubberized undercoating.
 

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I vote duct tape, super easy to use, waterproof, nearly indestructible, and cheap (perfect combiniton lol).
 

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yes, but

Duct tape does terrible things when it gets wet and hot though, and if it is not taken off in a few days it leaves a terrible mess.

Also, the adhesive in most duct tape is high in chlorine, and it tends to accelerate rust.

I had completely forgotten about the metal tape stuff Gary brought up. My old Datsun was held together by a layer of that stuff with bondo over it, then painted, and finally a "decorative" layer of the stainless tape on top. What a POS!
 

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Re: yes, but

oldopelguy said:
... My old Datsun was held together by a layer of that stuff with bondo over it, then painted, and finally a "decorative" layer of the stainless tape on top. What a POS!
Must have made is a perfect "20 footer"... :D
 

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Maybe try the "poor man's carbon fiber"as per a tip from my brother, he's used it for various quick body repairs:

POR-15 and fiberglass mat; repeat as required.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Someone saw me putting foil in the battery box and stopped to ask why....

The upshot was after a bit of a discussion I now have a loaner space garage till I leave. I can't do work there but the beloved Manta gets to lounge around as a garage queen till it's upcoming 2500-mile outing....


And for the temp fix I used two rolls of foil to make base plates with sides that go under the rubber on two side and is masking taped on the other but on that side I cut down some plastic and put it from under the fender lip to my drain channel in the foil.

Between the 2 levels of foil are three wooden slats that the battery is on. With the garage it will work till I get to a place that is warm enough to use chemicals and sealant's and put a better fix on it.


thanks everyone for the idea's
 
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