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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've primed my oil pump, made sure the oil filter has oil, removed spark plugs and coil wire and I'm ready to turn the engine a few times to make sure there is oil flowing to its veins, before I start it. But, do I have to have gas in the tank at this point or can I turn the engine with out it?
 

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You can crank the engine over with out gas in the tank, and you can initially start it with a small tank on the carburator.
 

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What I have done on numerous occasions, to facilitate starting the engine for the first time in a long time, and to expedite getting the fuel up to the carb is use some starting fluid, sparingly. The engine should lite right off, although it will not run long, a few applications of the starting fluid will get the fuel up to the carb faster than just by cranking the engine. Another alternative to starting the motor after sitting a long time is a little more risky, and that is to have a small container of gas higher than the carb, using the siphon method, allowing gas to fill the carb bowl and keep it full while the engine is running. My personal preferrence is the first suggestion. HTH.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thank you Jordan and Ron I'll try tomorow and see how it goes, I'll let you guys know.
Thanks
 

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Try WD-40 instead of starting fluid. It works great, engine will run on it all day. Starting fluid has no lubricating propertes at all so the the rings are dry until you get gas thru the carb. Not good if you need to turn it over more than a few seconds.
 

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I have started engines using a cheap 12v fuel pump & a battery, with about six ft of fuel line each side of the pump. One side to the carb, the other to a five gal can. I've tested several engines in the "parts cars " I've bought in this manner. Jarrell
 

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I like to use a little plastic "boat gas tank" for outboards, the hose with the little squeeze bulb and all, hook it up to the suction side of the fuel pump, squeeze the bulb to prime up the pump and fill the carb.
Back up. I never put gas to an engine until I have good oil pressure with the spark plugs out, and have checked ignition timing. No use trying to light gas unless it is timed to fire just before top dead center!
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
Well I did it...... and it runs GREAT :)I need to make some minor adjustments to the carb which is a Webber. This is the first time the car runs in about 7 or 8 years, I got it 3 months ago so I don't have any idea of it's history, the only other thing I've notice so far is that the OIL pressure gage in the dash goes all the way to the 5 and I don't know if that's the way it is or the gage isn't working or whatever. Any suggestions on that and any other comments will be greatly appreciated.
 

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Al Olmo said:
....the only other thing I've notice so far is that the OIL pressure gage in the dash goes all the way to the 5 and I don't know if that's the way it is or the gage isn't working or whatever. Any suggestions on that and any other comments will be greatly appreciated.
That can't be good. Maybe it is the gauge or the sender, or maybe the relief valve is stuck, or the oil pump cover on backwards, or....
Better figure it out before you run the engine too much, or you will pop out an oil galley
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
kwilford said:
That can't be good. Maybe it is the gauge or the sender, or maybe the relief valve is stuck, or the oil pump cover on backwards, or....
Better figure it out before you run the engine too much, or you will pop out an oil galley
How do I check the relief valve?
 

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I would first look at the oil pump cover. The relief valve is the big hex-headed bolt on the cover, and should be facing towards the rear of the engine (towards the oil pan). If it is facing forward, the relief valve won't function and you will get EXCESSIVE pressure (read http://opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3224&highlight=oil+pump+"relief+valve" and http://opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=6112&highlight=oil+pump+"relief+valve" or search and read http://opelgt.com/forums/search.php?searchid=93566) (Note: in the VERY early CIH engines, the pump cover is flat, and the relief valve is the big hex-headed bolt in the side of the chain case; later models with the pump cover relief valve still have the old valve, but the spring is stiffer to keep the old valve closed).
Next, I would remove the relief valve (take off the hex-head, and remove the spring and plunger inside) and make sure it is clear of debris and such. Is there any chance that the spring was removed in the past and an incorrect one installed?
If that doesn't fix it, maybe it isn't broken. Time to check the gauge and sender. One way is to get a mechanical gauge and plumb in (even temporarily) to see what the actual oil pressure is. Another is to get another gauge and sender and check to see if they show high pressure.
HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Thank you Keith, I appreciate your help, I'll let you know how I do.
 

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Check

I read somewhere on here that when the wires from the oil presure sensor, screwed into the block, are hitched up back to front then the gauge "pegs" to the high side. Have a wee search for "Fixing Oil Pressure Gauge" to see if it has been covered here.
What happens is that the gauge is hooked up to the "idiot light" switch which just goes on/off at 7psi so the gauge thinks that it has max pressure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Checking the oil presure sensor I've notice that the thing is folling in peaces, so that is probably the source of all my problems (I hope) is gona be hard to get it out of that spot, I have a new one waiting in the box so as soon as I get it replace I'll let you alll know if it worked or not.
Thanks again
 
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