[tekenaar]

1. Does your Opel pull to one side or the other intermittently when braking?
2. Does your Opel tend to wander on grooved pavement at highway speeds?
3. Does your Opel intermittently "clunk" from the front end when coming to a slow-speed stop, below ~20MPH?

Elevate each front wheel off the ground individually and, grasping front (3 O'Clock) and rear edge (9 O'Clock) of tire, wiggle wheel back and forth to test for ANY play/slop in steering . . . there should be NONE!! Check both sides this way.

Replacement "outer" (parts house will ask) tie rod:
McQuay-Norris: ES474R
Moog (Federal Mogul): ES474R

O'Reilly, AutoZone and Pep Boys sell them, not stocked, but typically locally warehoused.

 

[neuropel]

McQuay-Norris: ES474R
Moog (Federal Mogul): ES474R

Are they really the same part number for both manufacturers?

 

[tekenaar]

Same P/N?

Are they really the same part number for both manufacturers?

Right off the box label . . . I was surprised too.

 

[jtb]

For the Canadians

For the Canadians, UAP/NAPA has them in warehouse as well. I just replaced mine. I can get the part number if anyone is interested.

jtb

 

[spdkilz02]

can u get me the napa part number plz

 

[saxybiker]

Adam

I got several sets locally...some at Autozone and some at Advanced (they can look up the part number for you). Usually you can get next day one these. Go early am, pay and you will have them by the next morning.

Unless you have major problems with yours you are probably ok to drive it until you get it. We drove the Manta home 300 miles from Carlisle needing both outer tie rods and ball joints.

Vickie

 

[spdkilz02]

ok, thank you very much

 

[rsefczek]

shaking the front wheel

i thought movement (side to side) of the wheel suggests upper ball joint/control arm issues. is the tie rod another cause?

 

[MikeyOne]

Ball joint, control arm bushing or tie rods?

If you grab the wheel at 3:00 and 9:00 and can move it forward and back then Tie rods are the first thing to look at. If the tie rod ends seem tight then watch the ball joints and arms.

If you grab the top (12:00) and the bottom of the wheel (6:00) and can make the wheel tilt back and forth you definitely need to look at ball joints and control arms.

I always do this with a big friend so I can get a good look at each connecting point while the wheel is being pushed and pulled.

If lightly turning the steering wheel left to right while the car is on the ground and not moving causes a clunk or seems to have a big 'free' range then its usually tie rod ends. (although sometimes the steering linkage can make a similar sloppiness and rack and pinion units can wear internally)


Bottom line is always visual inspection while some else pushes, pulls and turns.

 

[opeldean]

If you grab the wheel at 3:00 and 9:00 and can move it forward and back then Tie rods are the first thing to look at. If the tie rod ends seem tight then watch the ball joints and arms.

If you grab the top (12:00) and the bottom of the wheel (6:00) and can make the wheel tilt back and forth you definitely need to look at ball joints and control arms.

I always do this with a big friend so I can get a good look at each connecting point while the wheel is being pushed and pulled.

If lightly turning the steering wheel left to right while the car is on the ground and not moving causes a clunk or seems to have a big 'free' range then its usually tie rod ends. (although sometimes the steerring linkage can make a similar sloppiness and rack and pinion units can wear internally)


Bottom line is always visual inspection while some else pushes, pulls and turns.

problem: I have play in the r front wheel and a pull to the left upon braking. You can see the steering rack move on the right side when I pull on the disconnected outer tie rod.I think I need an inner tie rod

today: I replaced the outer tie rods. It has seemed to make the steeering easier. It was needed. The old outer tie rod ends seemed to be ok...but they must of been binding under pressure.

Right side -My car has had everything replaced ...new ball joints, all poly bushings and outer tie rods. the only thing possible to do is the inner tie rod.

Left: everything replaced..including inner tie rods...no wobble after replacing the outer tie rod ends.

after todays work, i tried to measure the same length, tires squeel on corners, I need a professional alignment.

Results: New outer tie rods helped my steering..but I still need an inner tie rod on the right side

 

[jordan]

If you are finding it is pulling under braking it is likely the rubber brake hoses that are not allowing for even caliper pressure which will result in uneven braking. Though if you found that you had worn tie rod and rack components that may be the problem or at least contribute to it.

 

[ghcoe]

Do not forget that worn or loose wheel bearings can create the same problems/sounds.

 

[opeldean]

steering rack has "play or slop"

i have narrowed down my loose wheel to the steering rack.

I bought a bushing for the passenger side ,since that is the side of my wobble.

qusetion: anyone know how to put in the bushing and where it goes?

 

[opeldean]

steering rack photo

here is where i am at.

any advice?

 

[opeldean]

photo of rack

I will try again to post this photo. I guess its late and I didnt get it attached.

 

[Paul]

I've never had to do this myself. However, my guess is you'll have to drive the old bushing out first. Then press the new one in. And, you need to remove the old one from the inside out. So, you'll have to completely disassemble the entire rack... This I have done a couple of times and its not that hard, just follow the FSM. Also, while you've got it apart, its nice to replace the rubber seal/cover on the top of the input shaft. Sells for about $12 from OGTS. And, there is an O-ring or two you should replace....

GL

 

[opeldean]

disassembly steering rack

here is where I am at.
Passenger side bushing would not budge,so i divided it. Needle bearings fell out.
I am not sure what to do next. I would like to replace more parts,as long as its apart. I dont want to put it back together and still have a loose rack.

 

[guyopel]

Looks like your Steering Rack is very worn and I would look for a replacement at this point .... Your bushings show damage and this can wear the shaft down past the hardened section and will wear out the new bushings faster .
HTH
John

 

[OpelJim]

Seems to me

If you need a rack let us know we would be happy to help
Be sure to use the locking washer to hold the inner tie rod to the shaft properly. It is also my understanding that all the bushings need to be pressed out and in. Also replace the 2 (rubber/poly reproductions) rack mounting bushings. Make sure you pack the shaft with a CV joint grease fill the teeth and wind it all the way in and out packing the teeth each time until you have put about 4-6 ounces in the housing. I keep going until I see the grease is starting to ooze out. After all this is done your steering should be smooth and easy.

here is where I am at.
Passenger side bushing would not budge,so i divided it. Needle bearings fell out.
I am not sure what to do next. I would like to replace more parts,as long as its apart. I dont want to put it back together and still have a loose rack.

 

[opeldean]

replaced steering rack wth a good used one

I had a rack on my shelf that I had forgotten about. Once I looked at it, my spare rack way way better than the one on my car. Needle bearing looked great and I could not detect any wobble in the rack.

So I scrapped the idea of fixing my old rack.

to this good used rack , I have new rubber bushings, new inner tie rods,new outer tie rods. So I should be in good shape.

The new rack fixed the "slop" in my old rack

My next stop is for an alignment.