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Discussion Starter #21
Does that front end already have a lowering spring in it? It doesn’t look like there is any spring tension on the lower arms by the picture. On ball joints and tie rods, I use the hammer of Thor...I’m not kidding...they are called Thor hammers that are big heavy brass hammers the British used for their wheel spinners. Also I use a large round brass bar to strike the top of the tie rod studs to pop them loose
I took the spring out while it was on the car. Didn't think to do the same for ball joints and the tie rod ends before removing the whole unit and regret doing it this way now.... thats how you learn I suppose... I guess things will be easier the second time I do it.
 

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Spring and bolts are already removed, look at the lower A-Arm. HTH
 

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The first thing I do is remove the spring, so you should be fine just knocking the tie rods and ball joints loose. Sometimes you have to pop them loose by hitting the side of the steering spindle. I only use soft brass hammers to do this unless I get really mad. Then I take a little heat to them
 

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Discussion Starter #24
well I dropped off the block today at the machinists so the motor will be 2.0 pistons, polished crank and rods for lower end. top end will be street ported according to rallybob's writeup, 1.72 intake and 1.5 exhaust valves 400 Pontiac standard double springs, ogts combo cam and hydraulic lifters. and ported intake manifold. as of right now ill be using the webber 32/36 carb That could change to a 38 if it isn't enough to support it.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
427894

Got my flywheel back from having the outer rim machined off and having it modified for the s10 clutch. Still waiting for a few parts to run them up to the machine shop so they can finish up the motor. Hopefully in a few weeks or so ill have it back and can start putting it back in the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
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Today I went and picked up the head, block,and manifold from the engine shop. 1.9 low comp to 2.0 flat top pistons in the block. The head was ported had 1.72 chevy intake and 1.50 chevy exhaust valves put in new valve springs retainers seats etc. Ogts combo cam, ported intake manifold to open it up a bit. Now to put it all back together and for the first time have a running heart for my rallye.
 

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Always nice to get stuff from the machine shop!

What are the retainers? And did they set the valve tips to standard height above the chambers/deck?

Looking at the pistons, I cannot tell if they are actually sticking above the deck but it sure looks like they are. That needs to be checked for sure.
 

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They look fantastic, I really like the intake plenum, man everything looks so sharp!!! Speaking from someone who did get the pistons back slightly above deck, my first thought was, gee I wish my pistons would have come back like that. The machine shop I had did everything else great on the block except for that. Oh, well. Yours look better than mine did anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Always nice to get stuff from the machine shop!

What are the retainers? And did they set the valve tips to standard height above the chambers/deck?

Looking at the pistons, I cannot tell if they are actually sticking above the deck but it sure looks like they are. That needs to be checked for sure.
The pistons are pretty much right at deck height maybe 5 thou under.

As for the valves I will be checking to make sure they seem higher than the stock ones so well be measuring that up here pretty quick.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
They look fantastic, I really like the intake plenum, man everything looks so sharp!!! Speaking from someone who did get the pistons back slightly above deck, my first thought was, gee I wish my pistons would have come back like that. The machine shop I had did everything else great on the block except for that. Oh, well. Yours look better than mine did anyway.
I specifically told them not to take any more off the block than just a cleanup cut because I was afraid of getting into timing issues as I've seen posted on here from others
 

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Discussion Starter #32
So the part numbers for the valve springs and retainers are as follows;
Valves are Intake: SBI 01193
exhaust: SBI 01192
Valve springs: PAC-1906
Valve locks- PAC, L8133-8
Springs are from a Buick v6 /350,
 

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The pistons are pretty much right at deck height maybe 5 thou under.

As for the valves I will be checking to make sure they seem higher than the stock ones so well be measuring that up here pretty quick.
OK, good, that works. And about what it should be with just a skim cut on the deck. Did not want you to have a piston-to-head issue! The thinner head gasket at about .032" thick would be great but even the thicker Felpro at .040"-ish works well with that deck height.
 

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Discussion Starter #34
OK, good, that works. And about what it should be with just a skim cut on the deck. Did not want you to have a piston-to-head issue! The thinner head gasket at about .032" thick would be great but even the thicker Felpro at .040"-ish works well with that deck height.
Yea im picking up some playdough on my way home from work so we can verify valve piston clearance. I may have to take it back to the shop to have him cleanup the manifold bolt holes on the head since the threads are kinda goobered up.
Nowbim just waiting for rocker stud lock nuts and the timing set and oil pump and well be going through and triple checking g everything as we put it back together.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
OK, good, that works. And about what it should be with just a skim cut on the deck. Did not want you to have a piston-to-head issue! The thinner head gasket at about .032" thick would be great but even the thicker Felpro at .040"-ish works well with that deck height.
This is one of the things I've been nervous about since when we tore it down cyl two piston had hit the valve at some point. (Left a little kiss mark)
 

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Well if the pistons are in the hole by .005" and the head gasket is .032", then you have .037" nominal clearance, and that is 'snug' but quite adequate. The local circle track 4-banger guys sometimes go as tight as .025". My last Opel 1.9L was at .028", which is getting aggressively tight for a street build, but so far, so good.

Are you using hydrualic lifters? If so, then you need to observe certain procedures to get a valid piston-to-valve clearance.

Did the prior engine have valve reliefs and flat tops? What cam is this?
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Previously the motor had the dished low comp pistons im assuming someone overrevved her and floated a valve. Cam is the ogts combo cam middle option through them.
 

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Well if the pistons are in the hole by .005" and the head gasket is .032", then you have .037" nominal clearance, and that is 'snug' but quite adequate. The local circle track 4-banger guys sometimes go as tight as .025". My last Opel 1.9L was at .028", which is getting aggressively tight for a street build, but so far, so good.
You’ll probably mock me for it, but I typically run street engines with factory forged rods/cast pistons at .005” to .007” above deck, with a .032” thick (compressed) gasket.
I ran race engines for years at .010” above deck with the same gasket thickness.
 
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Discussion Starter #40
You’ll probably mock me for it, but I typically run street engines with factory forged rods/cast pistons at .005” to .007” above deck, with a .032” thick (compressed) gasket.
I ran race engines for years at .010” above deck with the same gasket thickness.
You have a much better grasp on the changes needed to the timing with that clearance than I do haha. I'm trying to be safe where I dont screw it up while following your writeup for a hot street head
 
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