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Rear brakes locking up

3K views 24 replies 9 participants last post by  terrylewisac 
#1 ·
Was driving down the road and the brakes locked up violently, came to a complete stop smoking and screeching. The e-brake lever was stuck in the down position and the car wouldn't move. I rolled back in reverse, the brake released and I could move forward. Happened several more times before I could get it home. Does this sound like the rear brake hose is collapsing?
 
#2 · (Edited by Moderator)
No sounds like your brake linings stuck to the drums from leaking axle seals or leaking wheel cylinders. The clue was when you said that if you backed up they released (became unstuck) also the smoking and smell. If it was the rear brake line collapsed, brake would not release by backing up. You would have to wait for the pressure to bleed off to release the brakes.
You are going to have to inspect the brakes and you should replace all of your rubber brake lines if you have not yet done so.
 
#6 ·
Also could be a broken spring.
 
#12 ·
You were lucky there. The last resort would have been Handbrake to stop it. I'd spring for everything new from Master cylinder on, new hoses, new rubber or stainless steel lines, Rear brake pistons. Rear brake shoes and drum. Check the front calipers, might be time for new brake pads or rotors. Blow out the brake lines clean with compressed air, nothing hooked up. Keith Wilford devised a neat setup for brake bleeding using an old brake cap. Neat idea, look it up. You do know how to bleed the brakes correct? Take care,Jarrell
 
#13 ·
I'll second Soybean,
oh man that's scary to think about
when I bought mine the brakes were just redone but the master was so bad I would hit the brakes and the engine rev would jump way up
I went for the e brake and guess what they forgot to adjust when they were done with the brakes?
That's right no brakes at all:ugh:
I guess you will be putting in a order with opelgtsource.com
 
#20 ·
I assume you already had all the stuff you needed?
I've never gotten any thing that quick from Cali
Did you do the M cylinder and booster also or was original OK?

Just saw you replaced M cylinder How fun was that
 
#21 ·
Long story to answer the above questions. This started with a clutch issue. I wanted to find a local shop to do the clutch, not something you want to do in the driveway on jack stands. I found a shop that's been around for 35 years doing general mechanical work and close by. I talked to them about the clutch to see if they were up for working on this car. They were willing so I ordered OGTS clutch kit, $131, and some seals plus shipping $177. OGTS ships USPS priority mail, basically I get everything in 2 to 3 days. They will ship directly to the shop as well. Just my opinion, but I'm an original owner, bought in June '71, and we are extremely lucky to have OGTS and some other dedicated parts providers out there. Not just the parts but someone to talk through issues with. I think that one of the reasons that so many of these cars are turning up in horrible shape is because there was no help, parts, internet, in the 70s and 80s. They started to resurface for restorations in the 90s. I have kept mine running all these years but I'm not a good mechanic and don't enjoy it much.

Before I had a chance to tackle the clutch, the brake thing surfaced. Instead of doing it myself, I decided to let the shop do it in order to give them a fairly simple job on the car to get used to it and my ability to get quality parts quickly. Many shops don't like owner provided parts. I had them look at the rear brakes to see what happened and we decided to replace everything. I had the parts in 2 days, $373 with shipping. They called me a couple of days later and said that the backs bled fine but couldn't get fluid to the front even with new hoses. Decided to replace the master cylinder, had it in 3 days, $108 with shipping. OGTS provides great notes and instructions for the mechanic. Problem is getting them to read everything. They couldn't get the master cylinder to bleed and thought it was bad. I called Gil and asked him to call the mechanic. He graciously agreed to and was able to walk them through the tricks. They got it installed and working but broke one of the banjo fittings. Called OGTS again and had one in 3 days, $17.50 with shipping. Mechanic charged me $750. They didn't charge me for the learning curve and they are still willing to tackle the clutch. Got it home and had a fluid leak, just tightened a nut, and they didn't adjust the e-brake, easy to do even for me. Like I said, long story. If you are going to own one of these cars, smell the roses and enjoy the ride.
 
#22 ·
Nice to hear from an original owner.. that is pretty cool! And yes on OGTS.... they make life a LOT better and easier.

FWIW.... back in the 80's you could get all sorts of parts from the GM dealers, auto parts stores, and all sorts of other parts like TRW forged pistons and such. Plus we had 2 or 3 good providers of performance parts here in the USA like C&R and Mantapart. I still have typewritten parts catalogs from back then.. it was all done over the phone or by mail.
 
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