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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Board,

I have been working on a 70 GT for a couple weeks now, and just noticed that the rear panel had extensive bondo work done on it. Apparently, the previous owner's son backed into something and cracked it. I can redo it, but I am considering replacing the entire rear panel itself. A couple companies offer the rear panel in metal and fiberglass, but the affordable one is fiberglass (or vynal). My question is simply this - how would one go about attaching a fiberglass rear panel? I wouldn't think it could be welded. Has anyone replaced one before, and how involved is it?

Thanks in advance.

Jim
 

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My GT has the glass one from OGTS on it. You use Marine Tex to bond the two together. Then screws to hold it tight until it sets up, then you start filling and fitting. One thing I found out after I got it. The light housings have to come from a donor car and get bonded in as well. As for the experience of doing it. It wasn't as fun as removing the shear bolts or replacing the headliner.
 

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Steel!

If you have, or can find a suitable spare steel one from another GT steel is good as fibreglass ones have a different expansion rate and eventually crack along the joins if exposed to lots of heat (sunshine!).

Have a look in my gallery for steel replacement pics - wonders can be done to get back to original.
 

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I recently came into ownership of a panel like you are speaking of. I also have the steel from the back window to the rear lip and out to almost the side markers. I am not sure if I want to keep it as mine is already in glass.
 

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I have a steel, rear panel cut from a Calif. GT. Panel is cut few inches forward of the side marker lights. Shipping from Calif. to Florida would be very expensive; guessing $75 to $100. I was hoping to put the panel on eBay in a few weeks to see what its worth is. There has to be a replacement part closer to you.

Dennis G. replaced his GT panel awhile back with new part from Germany. Think it cost him $400 to $500. Might talk to Opel GT Source or post message to the Yahoo Group.

Lindsay
San Diego, CA
 

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Expensive!

Got a rear panel off EBay myself at a cost of about $US120 and the fine GT Gentleman from Southern Illinois cut it carefully in half, vertically, to make it small enough to post by Air Mail.

It cost $US158 to wing it all the way across the Pacific Ocean to me in New Zealand. Saved about ten times that much in not having to make the panel from flat sheeet metal!

Here is a pic before it was cut in half for postage:
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks for all the replies! GTJIM, your gallery was actually what got me thinking about it. I must say, you do great work. I am very impressed at the final product - I have considered painting mine an emerald green like yours. Unfortunately, I am "untrained" in the art of welding and would likely have to have someone else do the work. I imagine that would be quite expensive.

I do feel a bit better about my car now that I have seen what some of you have done in the way of restoration. I only paid $1100 for my '70 and it runs great and the original interior looks almost new (save for a crack in the dash), but there is considerable work to do on the body. I almost had "buyer's remorse" but all in all, I really don't think the car is in that bad of shape now that I have seen your pics.

I didn't realize glass would crack, at least from a "non-accident" reason. As I live in FLA., that could be a problem.

Nobody - are you saying you have a back panel to sell?

Lindsey - Depending on what you want for the panel, shipping might be worth it. The ones from Lenk and Susselbeek are about $400 US. Let me know what you want for it.

Again, thanks for the advice. Steel is probably the best way to go.

Jim.
 

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i would say steel over fiberglass any day, ive done major work on my body panels and it is pro looking it may take time but the final product will come out awsome if u spend the time and effort and also the money for the right tools, just rember when u weld in that new panel if u do get steel to make sure u put a rust preventive paint over your weld, my previous owner of my gt had a spot done were they welded in a patch panel but were to lazy to paint the inside were they had welded the panel this resulted in it rusting out again and me needing to re-do it the correct way. good luck to u on which ever route u decide to go.
 

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Ok this is what I did with mine. Keep in mind the back drivers corner when I got it was beyond repair with what was there. I got the one from OGTS and cut the one off of mine. While it was off I grafted a better drivers side marker area of steel from my parts car. I used the old bent panel to lay out all the holes for the emblems and such. It does not come predrilled for anything. I carefully removed the light brackets from the old panel and Marine texed them to the glass panel. After prepping the back and test fitting the new panel I gooped up the back with Marine tex and screwed it in place to hold it. One by one I removed the screws and replaced them with pop rivets to be sure it stayed there. I glassed in the top edge all the way around. Once that edge was how I liked it. I put a rear trim ring that I had gotten off of Ebay on the back end. I was careful all along to keep everything in the center of where the trim ring would later be. Now you can't tell it from stock. The other day another GT was parked beside it that has very little work done to the back and mine looked more stock than his. I have also sealed the area from the inside so if I do develop a crack between the glass and steel I would have to take the trim ring off to find it. When people say crack they are talking hair line at the seam point.
 

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Old thread but might be useful in the future
Edit Make sure you install the tail light buckets BEFORE you install on the car.
Lack of investigation before this was installed and lesson learned the hard way bang head
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