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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’ve been scrolling through the forum for a recently updated list of tune up replacement parts for the stock distributor on my 72’ GT. There’s scattered information available but it also seems outdated. I’m mostly interested in what everyone uses for the distributor cap, rotor and plug wires. For the record I’m speaking of the original parts replacements for the 1.9.

• For example the Bosch distributor cap 03029 has been discontinued.
• The matching rotor 04004 seems to be available
• The Bosch distributor cap 03010 is available but most retailers say it doesn’t fit
• There’s a matching rotor for that distributor 04170

Does anyone use the Bosch 03010 cap with the matching rotor listed above?

I’ve been looking at the redily availabile premium distributor caps and unfortunately Bosch isn’t offered from most retailers here in California and on line. I DON’T want the plastic cap with the aluminum contacts, Rockauto shows the premium cap then shows aluminum contacts. Standard Motor Products doesn’t offer the distributor with the brass/copper contacts as far as I know, they seem like a fairly reputable manufacturer of auto parts.

I’ve found a couple of distributor caps that apparently has the copper or brass contacts for the cap
• Napa carries a distributor that fits this catagory made by Exchlin Ignition? Pt# ECH EP274 is that a trusted name? I’m not familiar with that manufacturer.
• Another one I’ve found through Advance/Carquest this manufacturer apparently used to be Beck Arnley, they were a go to manufacturer for my GT in the past. I’ll be picking it up tomorrow with the matching rotor and leave that information here when I get it.

Sperk plug wires:
What are some of the good spark plug wire brands? I had a set of Borg Warner plug wires for well over 20 years, they didn’t look like much when I installed them, but they fit great performed well and lasted, even though one eventually failed they looked almost as good as when I bought them and performed just as well. They unfortunately no longer make them.

I went to O’Rielly’s and asked for a set of premium silicone wires and the plugs didn’t seem to have the power that the old plug wires did. I measured the resistanceand the resistance was much higher than the old wires which were under 10k per FSM manual. That put the mystery back in it for me as far as trusting any of the plug wires listed for the 1.9 engine at the local auto parts store.

My intention is to leave a current easy to look up reference for other forum members to use when looking for a decent cap, rotor and plug wires. Thank you in advance.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Although I have really nice, fat, MSD, cut-to-length, spark plug wires, I was chasing a problem with ignition and I needed a set of new wires to rule out problems with the fancy set. I really hate it when the center diz cap wire is too long. Long, sloppy/floppy, spark plug wires are a big no-no at car shows and the appearance of your engine compartment in general. I also really like long, thick, spark plug boots. So I went to Rock Auto and bought the set linked to below. The center wire is fairly short and the rest of the wires were of minimal length and fit my spark plug router more or less perfectly.

 

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It’s been years since I’ve done the ‘stock ignition‘ thing, and I’m not too surprised a lot has been discontinued.

I recall stocking 4 types of Bosch caps in my C & R days. Early distributors and late distributors had different alignment tabs and are not interchangeable. Also there were ‘high tower’ and ‘low tower’ caps which required different plug wires.

I was partial to Magnecor plug wires as I was a stocking distributor back in the day, and I helped design the variations needed for GT/Manta and the different cap styles too. I believe Magnecor still lists those wire sets.

I liked Bosch platinum plugs for stock engines and ignitions, but otherwise I prefer NGK copper plugs for modified engines and high energy ignition systems.

I probably have those discontinued parts you are looking for, FYI.

BTW, my emergency Opel ‘go to’ spark plug wire set was always for the Mazda B2200 pickup truck. It fits the Opels and is usually more readily available.
 

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Sure, you could figure out what other sources of tune up parts might be of a reasonable quality. Or, you could simply go to

Spark Plug Wire Set (8mm) Part: 6071 Price: $21.00

Pertronix Ignitor & Coil Combo Part: 6169 Price: $148.00

Spark Plugs, Bosch Platinum Plus Part: 6077 Price: $16.00

or

NGK Spark Plugs Part: 6163 Price: $12.00

Distributor Cap & Rotor (Later Style) Part: 6041 Price: $19.00
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, I agree OGTS does all that for you and there’s few I enjoy doing business with more. That’s a good addition to this thread. Occasionally the shelf is empty there on certain things until it gets restocked as with any good company. It happens.

That said, if that’s where the members of the forum get their tune up parts from I’m interested in hearing from them too. Hopefully we’ll get a few other contributions for good alternatives, I’m especially curious about the Bosch. it’s a good conversation topic too I thought.
 

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I had a customer that brought an Opel in that was misfiring above 3000 rpm under load.
He did the tune-up with new plugs, wires, cap and rotor.
I checked his car on the scope for firing voltage and it was a 3k to 5k volts and it should have been 15k volts.
I checked the plug wire resistance and it was high (18k to 22k) like the ones you bought.
With the rotor with it's resistance built in it dropped firing voltage below what was required.
I put a used set of plug wires on to show him the problem was corrected. He bought a set of our plug wires and returned the ones he had bought.
It's good that you checked your wires because it stopped you from getting caught with " what do I buy now? " and firing the "Parts Cannon at you car".
I do not use the Opel rotor I use the rotor from a Capri 2.0 that does not use the resistor.
HTH
John
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
guyopel would you please leave the year make& model of the Capri, better yet the part information?
it looks like the Pinto was using the same engine for many years. If it’s like our Opels then the distributor may have changed over the years.
 

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Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
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You can also use a rev limiting rotor with our distributors. I think the only reason why Opel didn't use them was cost. VW, Porsche, BMW, and Mercedes all used Bosch for their ignition systems so they all at one point in time used a rev limiting rotor. In that thread, I posted the Bosch part numbers and the corresponding RPM limit. I think it's smart to use one as relatively cheap insurance against accidentally over-revving the engine or in the case of a bad downshift, not igniting the fuel when the engine is well beyond redline.

As for the cap, online shows Bosch 1 235 522 196 as another part number for 03029. I found Bremi 8049 as an alternate part.
 

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The following are some alternatives at RockAuto:

Spark Plug Wire Set:
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS 55111
CAD$14.47

Distributor Cap:
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS GB423
CAD$8.33

Spark Plugs:
NGK 4085 {Click Info Button for Alternate/OEM Part Numbers} Iridium IX Info
CAD$7.71

Rotor:
BOSCH 04004
CAD$9.46

or

Non-Resistor Rotor:
STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS GB381
CAD$7.49
 

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Sure, you could figure out what other sources of tune up parts might be of a reasonable quality. Or, you could simply go to

Spark Plug Wire Set (8mm) Part: 6071 Price: $21.00

Pertronix Ignitor & Coil Combo Part: 6169 Price: $148.00

Spark Plugs, Bosch Platinum Plus Part: 6077 Price: $16.00

or

NGK Spark Plugs Part: 6163 Price: $12.00

Distributor Cap & Rotor (Later Style) Part: 6041 Price: $19.00
I would recommend using the Pertronix III vs the Pertronix I from OGTS.
Pertronix 71847V + Pertronix Coil 44011
The Pertronix I does not like heat, and will burn up very quickly if the key is on and the motor is not running. The Pertronix III will not burn up if the key is on and the motor is not running, is not affected by heat, has a rev. limiter, and does NOT require the stupid plastic center ring. It is available from Amazon, or perhaps Gil may have it. You will have to replace the clear resistor wire with a solid wire as this unit requires a full 12V to the coil and ignition, and you will have to increase the plug gap slightly.
 

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I would recommend using the Pertronix III vs the Pertronix I from OGTS.
Pertronix 71847V + Pertronix Coil 44011
The Pertronix I does not like heat, and will burn up very quickly if the key is on and the motor is not running. The Pertronix III will not burn up if the key is on and the motor is not running, is not affected by heat, has a rev. limiter, and does NOT require the stupid plastic center ring. It is available from Amazon, or perhaps Gil may have it. You will have to replace the clear resistor wire with a solid wire as this unit requires a full 12V to the coil and ignition, and you will have to increase the plug gap slightly.
I don't disagree about the risk (albeit small) of "cooking" the Pertronix I (1847) if the ignition is left on for an extended period.

And I have heard good things about the Pertronix III (71847), although it is a bit larger and somewhat more expensive.

My choice was to purchase the Pertronix II (91847). It occupies the same space as the 1847, is immune to "cooking", and has auto-dwell variation. It also allows a non-resistor coil to be supplied with a full 12 (actually +13.5) volts, so the potential spark voltage is higher than with the Pertronix I. The ring is optional, but I still used one, and was just very careful on ensuring the ring was fully seated. The only feature the II doesn't have vs the III is the rev limiter, and I am not concerned by that. I bought mine from Gil/OGTS so he does have them (or can get them).

And you are correct regarding installing a bypass wire around the resistor to supply any of the Pertronix Ignitors. In the case of the 1847, if the stock non-resistor coil is used, then it must be supplied with the resistor wire. I chose the matching Pertronix Flame Thrower coil. Works VERY well.
 
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Pedal Smasher
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I just bought a NOS Bosch distributor cap off of eBay. Part number 1235522196 is the newer part number for 03029. If you search for it, you'll find them. And yes, it has the copper contacts for the spark plug wires.
 

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I don't disagree about the risk (albeit small) of "cooking" the Pertronix I (1847) if the ignition is left on for an extended period.

And I have heard good things about the Pertronix III (71847), although it is a bit larger and somewhat more expensive.

My choice was to purchase the Pertronix II (91847). It occupies the same space as the 1847, is immune to "cooking", and has auto-dwell variation. It also allows a non-resistor coil to be supplied with a full 12 (actually +13.5) volts, so the potential spark voltage is higher than with the Pertronix I. The ring is optional, but I still used one, and was just very careful on ensuring the ring was fully seated. The only feature the II doesn't have vs the III is the rev limiter, and I am not concerned by that. I bought mine from Gil/OGTS so he does have them (or can get them).

And you are correct regarding installing a bypass wire around the resistor to supply any of the Pertronix Ignitors. In the case of the 1847, if the stock non-resistor coil is used, then it must be supplied with the resistor wire. I chose the matching Pertronix Flame Thrower coil. Works VERY well.
The Pertronix I does "cook" fairly fast. I used the same unit in my 70 GT and in my 72 VW bug. Both failed after the engine stalled when I walked away. Had some issues with the Pertronix II with it getting hot from high heat and failing (stalling) until it cooled off. I have not had any issues since I switched to the Pertronix III in all of my oldies. Just painted my 73 and am putting Humpty back together. This was one with no floors, rockers, front and back wheel wells gone, Tops of front fenders gone, and damaged rear end and belly pan. All sheet metal and body work and painting was done by me with a harbor freight $40.00 brake and $99 wire welder. My wife "accidently" deleted all my before photos on this car. This is GT # 10 for me. Also I know the voltage is over 12V. But have you ever went into a Auto store and purchased a 13V+ battery ? I think they would look at you stupid if you asked for one.
 

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Opeler
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The Pertronix I does "cook" fairly fast. I used the same unit in my 70 GT and in my 72 VW bug. Both failed after the engine stalled when I walked away. Had some issues with the Pertronix II with it getting hot from high heat and failing (stalling) until it cooled off. I have not had any issues since I switched to the Pertronix III in all of my oldies. Just painted my 73 and am putting Humpty back together. This was one with no floors, rockers, front and back wheel wells gone, Tops of front fenders gone, and damaged rear end and belly pan. All sheet metal and body work and painting was done by me with a harbor freight $40.00 brake and $99 wire welder. My wife "accidently" deleted all my before photos on this car. This is GT # 10 for me. Also I know the voltage is over 12V. But have you ever went into a Auto store and purchased a 13V+ battery ? I think they would look at you stupid if you asked for one.
Very nice work there, Wilderbry! And, if it was as bad as you said when you started on it, you even deserve extra credit!
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I just bought a NOS Bosch distributor cap off of eBay. Part number 1235522196 is the newer part number for 03029. If you search for it, you'll find them. And yes, it has the copper contacts for the spark plug wires.
I just looked on eBay and thanks for the updated part # Autoholic. I’m not sure if it’s COVID related, right now it seems there’s a premium to pay for one of those, but it’s bound to last as long as 3-4 of those cheaper caps.

I went to pick up the premium cap mentioned on my first post, the Napa premium had the aluminum contacts as well as the Carquest premium. Next I’ll look at the Standard Motor Products premium cap on post #10, in the discription it says solid brass contacts (where available) which makes it look like a blanket description for their premium line of distributor caps.
 

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Pedal Smasher
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I only paid like $7 for mine on eBay, then like $8 for shipping but it was from a US seller. There are a lot of sources on eBay from Europe. I found another alternate part, Beru VK118. So that and Bremi 8049 are other options. Between Bosch, Beru, and Bremi you should be able to get a cap that works. Most of the eBay sources seem to list this cap somewhere between $15-30, which really isn't that bad especially when you consider eBay fees. OGTS is a source we shouldn't ignore though. It does help to know the brand part number however.

For my 2.4L, the dizzy is a reman unit I got from a forum member. The cap is Bosch 03029, the rotor is Bosch 04023 (rev limit at 6500), and it will have a PerTronix Ignitor II (part number 91847V). I haven't decided if I want to just make my own spark plug wires using a Taylor Vertex set that you have to finish or just buy a set from OGTS. One option is easy, one option is higher quality. I know the Ignitor III has a built in rev limit but I like the idea of using tech from the era and the Ignitor II is a lot closer to the original Ignitor which was originally invented around the time our Opels were new. The Ignitor II and a Retro Sound Long Beach will be the most tech in my GT. I plan to use a mechanical fuel pump with my own solutions (rerouted fuel line and a Malpassi regulator) to eliminating vapor lock.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well, it looks like I will be following Autoholic’s lead. $9 for that Bosch cap is a great deal!

Strike 3 for me. I ordered the SMP premium cap
Material property Font Gas Audio equipment Gadget
made in China, if you’re looking for the good brass contacts you do not want to go this route. That’s the difference of course with OGTS, at least you’ll know what you’re getting. One thing is for sure on the caps at least, the brass/copper inserts are getting very rare.

Bremi looks like the way to go thus far for the porpoises of this thread as far as the brass contact inserts/cap goes. The Bosch & Beru are currently going from $30over $75
 

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Pedal Smasher
1973 Opel GT
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Chances are some of the brands are buying the same cap produced in China. If the cap doesn't have any brand logos on it, I could see them all being the same cap. eBay isn't a bad option for Bosch, Bremi, and Beru. I've bought a lot of NOS parts through eBay.
 
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