I know there are a few different threads one could read to glean most of this info but I thought I'd start an all inclusive thread. I hope it helps.
I decided to take apart a set of gauges and reface them in white.
I have access to some very nice printers and printed the two sets of gauge faces that are most popular.
One was here http://www.opelgt.com/forums/1e-oth...anel/2857-white-gauge-faces-5.html#post148557
and the other is located here http://www.opelgt.com/forums/genera...-guy-know-guy-who-knows-guy-2.html#post646858
I did not modify them at all.
After printing, I opted for the first one as the one I'd use.
I will admit that I was using an off-the-shelf vinyl that is permanent. It had been sitting in our shop for a few years.
I matched the vinyl up to the actual gauge after printing and the size was fine.
After seasoning the vinyl (leaving it in my car for an entire summer) the vinyl had shrunk by 5%. So WARNING - Vinyl is prone to shrinking.
OK, so that's the skinny on the vinyl decals. I'm sure there is a non-shrinking vinyl available but keep in mind that the interior of the car could get to 150 degrees so that's the threshold for shrinking and adhesive.
Next step.
If you are going to reface your gauges, or even if you are just going to freshen them up by cleaning the interior of the glass and wiping down the face, you will need to take the gauges apart. There are a few variations to the following steps but the procedures are basically the same.
The first thing you need to do is get a #1 straight blade screwdriver (called a "cabinet screwdriver" by some). You will need to go to the back of the chrome ring and gently pry the lip out away from the housing. Remember, less is more.
Some say to go all around the ring at about 10mm intervals but I prefer a 1/8" step. I pry about .020 away from the housing on the first pass and then more on the second pass.
This should make it loose enough to find the "split" in the housing and get the ring removal started to twist it around and off. One might even be able to convince the ring off without the twist method.
Be careful as this is 40 year old glass and has a tendency to fisheye easily on the edges.
The disassembly of the ring and glass at this point is self explanatory.
If you are just going to clean the face and glass then skip this next few paragraphs.
On the Speedometer and Tachometer, if you are refacing them, you need to remove the needles (indicator arms). This is done through many methods but my preferred method is to just pinch at the bottom of the spot where the needle connects to the mechanism and use a sort of leverage of my finger to pull the needle off. Some say to use tools but, for me, the tactile grip allows some feedback to let me know if I'm doing something wrong.
On the tach, the needle just aligns at the lowest mark on the gauge. The "stop" for the needle is internal to the mechanism so there's not a lot of need for an adjustment.
On the Speedo, however, there is a stop pin that the needle rests against when the car isn't moving. There are two methods to address this "stop" point.
1) GENTLY lift the indicator needle over the stop pin and allow the needle to come to rest.
2) Remove the stop point (a pin) and allow the indicator needle to come to rest.
Make note of where it's pointing when at rest. This is VERY important if you want an accurate speedometer. On the gauge face there may be alignment marks to help you out and help reassemble it.
On both, the speedo and tach, there will be two small screws that, once removed, will allow the face to come off of the mechanism. Once removed you are ready to clean them or put new faces on them.
If you need to know how to put vinyl on a surface without bubbles, head to youtube. I can't improve on what you will find there.
On the other three gauges the procedures are different.
Removing the chrome ring, and the glass, is about the same but DO NOT attempt to remove the needles on the ammeter, temperature, fuel and oil pressure gauges. The tiny shaft that holds the needle WILL BREAK if you try and there's no advantage to removing the needles as the vinyl can be cut to go around the shaft and will never be seen.
While we have everything apart it's important to service anything that needs serviced. I won't go through that here but will address the parts that are important prior to reassembly.
The light for the gauges is reflective light. It has to bounce around a bit to get the gauges to light up. For this reason it's probably a good idea to improve the ability for this light to bounce.
On the "reflectors" you will notice that one side is black and the other side it a much lighter color. On the light side, sliver or white paint would work well. One might even see if they can locate a reflective glitter paint in white or silver to help the light spread when it's reflected. Now is the time to experiment with LEDS and such as well.
For reassembly, think about replacing the gaskets that are on the glass. At moany craft stores you can find a very thin foam that would work perfectly or you could even use RTV if you are able to create a small enough bead. You can remove RTV that's on the outside of the glass even after its completely assembled. The most important thing is you don't want the glass to rattle.
After everything is fully assembled the ring will be loose. The following method of securing the ring has served me well.
Get a hose clamp that fits fully around the chrome ring. Tighten it up snog but don't over tighten it. Remember that you are pressing against glass so be careful.
With the hose clamp in place, set the gauge face down on your leg. Put a towel betweent he gauge and your leg "just in case". Take the #1 flathead screwdriver and push down on the ring spots that have been bent during disassembly.
Methodically work your way around the metal ring fully.
Then go around again using a blunt object (a screwdriver handle or the handle of a hammer) to tap the ring down the rest of the way.
That's it. I hope this is helpful to someone.
I decided to take apart a set of gauges and reface them in white.
I have access to some very nice printers and printed the two sets of gauge faces that are most popular.
One was here http://www.opelgt.com/forums/1e-oth...anel/2857-white-gauge-faces-5.html#post148557
and the other is located here http://www.opelgt.com/forums/genera...-guy-know-guy-who-knows-guy-2.html#post646858
I did not modify them at all.
After printing, I opted for the first one as the one I'd use.
I will admit that I was using an off-the-shelf vinyl that is permanent. It had been sitting in our shop for a few years.
I matched the vinyl up to the actual gauge after printing and the size was fine.
After seasoning the vinyl (leaving it in my car for an entire summer) the vinyl had shrunk by 5%. So WARNING - Vinyl is prone to shrinking.
OK, so that's the skinny on the vinyl decals. I'm sure there is a non-shrinking vinyl available but keep in mind that the interior of the car could get to 150 degrees so that's the threshold for shrinking and adhesive.
Next step.
If you are going to reface your gauges, or even if you are just going to freshen them up by cleaning the interior of the glass and wiping down the face, you will need to take the gauges apart. There are a few variations to the following steps but the procedures are basically the same.
The first thing you need to do is get a #1 straight blade screwdriver (called a "cabinet screwdriver" by some). You will need to go to the back of the chrome ring and gently pry the lip out away from the housing. Remember, less is more.
Some say to go all around the ring at about 10mm intervals but I prefer a 1/8" step. I pry about .020 away from the housing on the first pass and then more on the second pass.
This should make it loose enough to find the "split" in the housing and get the ring removal started to twist it around and off. One might even be able to convince the ring off without the twist method.
Be careful as this is 40 year old glass and has a tendency to fisheye easily on the edges.
The disassembly of the ring and glass at this point is self explanatory.
If you are just going to clean the face and glass then skip this next few paragraphs.
On the Speedometer and Tachometer, if you are refacing them, you need to remove the needles (indicator arms). This is done through many methods but my preferred method is to just pinch at the bottom of the spot where the needle connects to the mechanism and use a sort of leverage of my finger to pull the needle off. Some say to use tools but, for me, the tactile grip allows some feedback to let me know if I'm doing something wrong.
On the tach, the needle just aligns at the lowest mark on the gauge. The "stop" for the needle is internal to the mechanism so there's not a lot of need for an adjustment.
On the Speedo, however, there is a stop pin that the needle rests against when the car isn't moving. There are two methods to address this "stop" point.
1) GENTLY lift the indicator needle over the stop pin and allow the needle to come to rest.
2) Remove the stop point (a pin) and allow the indicator needle to come to rest.
Make note of where it's pointing when at rest. This is VERY important if you want an accurate speedometer. On the gauge face there may be alignment marks to help you out and help reassemble it.
On both, the speedo and tach, there will be two small screws that, once removed, will allow the face to come off of the mechanism. Once removed you are ready to clean them or put new faces on them.
If you need to know how to put vinyl on a surface without bubbles, head to youtube. I can't improve on what you will find there.
On the other three gauges the procedures are different.
Removing the chrome ring, and the glass, is about the same but DO NOT attempt to remove the needles on the ammeter, temperature, fuel and oil pressure gauges. The tiny shaft that holds the needle WILL BREAK if you try and there's no advantage to removing the needles as the vinyl can be cut to go around the shaft and will never be seen.
While we have everything apart it's important to service anything that needs serviced. I won't go through that here but will address the parts that are important prior to reassembly.
The light for the gauges is reflective light. It has to bounce around a bit to get the gauges to light up. For this reason it's probably a good idea to improve the ability for this light to bounce.
On the "reflectors" you will notice that one side is black and the other side it a much lighter color. On the light side, sliver or white paint would work well. One might even see if they can locate a reflective glitter paint in white or silver to help the light spread when it's reflected. Now is the time to experiment with LEDS and such as well.
For reassembly, think about replacing the gaskets that are on the glass. At moany craft stores you can find a very thin foam that would work perfectly or you could even use RTV if you are able to create a small enough bead. You can remove RTV that's on the outside of the glass even after its completely assembled. The most important thing is you don't want the glass to rattle.
After everything is fully assembled the ring will be loose. The following method of securing the ring has served me well.
Get a hose clamp that fits fully around the chrome ring. Tighten it up snog but don't over tighten it. Remember that you are pressing against glass so be careful.
With the hose clamp in place, set the gauge face down on your leg. Put a towel betweent he gauge and your leg "just in case". Take the #1 flathead screwdriver and push down on the ring spots that have been bent during disassembly.
Methodically work your way around the metal ring fully.
Then go around again using a blunt object (a screwdriver handle or the handle of a hammer) to tap the ring down the rest of the way.
That's it. I hope this is helpful to someone.