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Refacing gauges. Tips and warnings.

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#1 · (Edited)
I know there are a few different threads one could read to glean most of this info but I thought I'd start an all inclusive thread. I hope it helps.


I decided to take apart a set of gauges and reface them in white.
I have access to some very nice printers and printed the two sets of gauge faces that are most popular.

One was here http://www.opelgt.com/forums/1e-oth...anel/2857-white-gauge-faces-5.html#post148557

and the other is located here http://www.opelgt.com/forums/genera...-guy-know-guy-who-knows-guy-2.html#post646858

I did not modify them at all.

After printing, I opted for the first one as the one I'd use.

I will admit that I was using an off-the-shelf vinyl that is permanent. It had been sitting in our shop for a few years.

I matched the vinyl up to the actual gauge after printing and the size was fine.

After seasoning the vinyl (leaving it in my car for an entire summer) the vinyl had shrunk by 5%. So WARNING - Vinyl is prone to shrinking.

OK, so that's the skinny on the vinyl decals. I'm sure there is a non-shrinking vinyl available but keep in mind that the interior of the car could get to 150 degrees so that's the threshold for shrinking and adhesive.

Next step.

If you are going to reface your gauges, or even if you are just going to freshen them up by cleaning the interior of the glass and wiping down the face, you will need to take the gauges apart. There are a few variations to the following steps but the procedures are basically the same.

The first thing you need to do is get a #1 straight blade screwdriver (called a "cabinet screwdriver" by some). You will need to go to the back of the chrome ring and gently pry the lip out away from the housing. Remember, less is more.
Some say to go all around the ring at about 10mm intervals but I prefer a 1/8" step. I pry about .020 away from the housing on the first pass and then more on the second pass.
This should make it loose enough to find the "split" in the housing and get the ring removal started to twist it around and off. One might even be able to convince the ring off without the twist method.

Be careful as this is 40 year old glass and has a tendency to fisheye easily on the edges.

The disassembly of the ring and glass at this point is self explanatory.

If you are just going to clean the face and glass then skip this next few paragraphs.

On the Speedometer and Tachometer, if you are refacing them, you need to remove the needles (indicator arms). This is done through many methods but my preferred method is to just pinch at the bottom of the spot where the needle connects to the mechanism and use a sort of leverage of my finger to pull the needle off. Some say to use tools but, for me, the tactile grip allows some feedback to let me know if I'm doing something wrong.

On the tach, the needle just aligns at the lowest mark on the gauge. The "stop" for the needle is internal to the mechanism so there's not a lot of need for an adjustment.
On the Speedo, however, there is a stop pin that the needle rests against when the car isn't moving. There are two methods to address this "stop" point.

1) GENTLY lift the indicator needle over the stop pin and allow the needle to come to rest.
2) Remove the stop point (a pin) and allow the indicator needle to come to rest.

Make note of where it's pointing when at rest. This is VERY important if you want an accurate speedometer. On the gauge face there may be alignment marks to help you out and help reassemble it.

On both, the speedo and tach, there will be two small screws that, once removed, will allow the face to come off of the mechanism. Once removed you are ready to clean them or put new faces on them.

If you need to know how to put vinyl on a surface without bubbles, head to youtube. I can't improve on what you will find there.

On the other three gauges the procedures are different.

Removing the chrome ring, and the glass, is about the same but DO NOT attempt to remove the needles on the ammeter, temperature, fuel and oil pressure gauges. The tiny shaft that holds the needle WILL BREAK if you try and there's no advantage to removing the needles as the vinyl can be cut to go around the shaft and will never be seen.

While we have everything apart it's important to service anything that needs serviced. I won't go through that here but will address the parts that are important prior to reassembly.

The light for the gauges is reflective light. It has to bounce around a bit to get the gauges to light up. For this reason it's probably a good idea to improve the ability for this light to bounce.
On the "reflectors" you will notice that one side is black and the other side it a much lighter color. On the light side, sliver or white paint would work well. One might even see if they can locate a reflective glitter paint in white or silver to help the light spread when it's reflected. Now is the time to experiment with LEDS and such as well.

For reassembly, think about replacing the gaskets that are on the glass. At moany craft stores you can find a very thin foam that would work perfectly or you could even use RTV if you are able to create a small enough bead. You can remove RTV that's on the outside of the glass even after its completely assembled. The most important thing is you don't want the glass to rattle.

After everything is fully assembled the ring will be loose. The following method of securing the ring has served me well.

Get a hose clamp that fits fully around the chrome ring. Tighten it up snog but don't over tighten it. Remember that you are pressing against glass so be careful.

With the hose clamp in place, set the gauge face down on your leg. Put a towel betweent he gauge and your leg "just in case". Take the #1 flathead screwdriver and push down on the ring spots that have been bent during disassembly.
Methodically work your way around the metal ring fully.
Then go around again using a blunt object (a screwdriver handle or the handle of a hammer) to tap the ring down the rest of the way.


That's it. I hope this is helpful to someone.
 

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#3 ·
We just got a new printer at my work that can print car wraps. It's not online yet but I think that would be the printer to use for making gauge faces. If so, then they will be available in the near future.

In the meantime, here's another version.

View attachment GreenGauges.pdf
 
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#4 ·
White Gauges

Hey Guys that what I just went though White Gauges are Cool.
The hardest problem is prying off the chrome ring without chipping the glass,
Tip: use non-metal tools..glass tools I was using ice cream sticks as shims
The white decal sheets I Didn't shrink it in my car, but sat in the garage a year..oopps
To reinstall the chrome rings, I didn't bother crimping I just lay down a bead of marine silicone cement in the gap between ring and housing.
Take a look the finished dash using Alpine Receiver and a Digital Clock

I would say it's not an easy task.....really want to want it..lol

Good Luck
 

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#5 ·
FWIW

I have created a file that I can edit in a short time to change the color of the gauge sheet above in a matter of a few minutes.

If you need a different color pattern, just ask.
 
#6 ·
looking good
im interested in a set please
would it be difficult to supply the pdf you use so it could be modified by buyers to add maybe the gt lettering or opel or other changes like kph
would you be able to supply them with the holes punched out
thanks you can pm me if you want
 
#7 ·
The PDF I used is the first one posted above. I just changed up the colors to get the green on black and could change that one to other colors.

If I get to a position where I can make these for people, and be sure they won't fade or peel, I will let people know.
 
#14 ·
Also, do not repaint the flourescent orange needles red. Like the guy did we bought a gt from this summer.

I though, "Hey, That's cool."

I put them in my GT and the needles are invisible at night.

Not that it bothers me much.

I shift when it quits pulling, I'm probably breaking the speed limit anyway, If it's not knocking it has oil, if it's not steaming it's not overheating, and if it's still running it's not out of gas.

Lastly?

It's always Opel Time!
 
#16 ·
It's interesting to see whitefacegauges doing these now.
A buddy of mine bought white face gauge decals from them for his 95 Mustang. They looked pretty good and were good quality.
The price is reasonable as well.

It will be interesting to see how the Opelers review their Opel GT face decals. I can't imagine doing the speedo and tach without removing the needle but the hole they provide should clear the needle OK.
 
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#19 ·
That's Cool somebody finally making the white Decals and already cut out ready to use.
Nice!
Well it took me a while before I got the decals made and got a round to doing them.

I took off the speedo and tach needles (it just makes it easier to work with the plate)
I painted the the plates white so no bleed though ....nice bright white so even if it shrinks a little ok and looks cool around the odometer

But I made my own decal sheets and it took me a few 2 or 3 to do the speedo and tech without any bubbles... I ain't no pro FWIW

I suppose you could just make copies, white gauges really look cool
Good Luck
 
#25 ·
Make-N-Copies

The best materials for the white gauges would be High Grade Vinyl used in Graphic Art
( expensive stuff)
The Best thing to do is simple, get a copy of the white gauges.... it's here on this site...free
just find it copy onto CD or flash drive...download
Go to Staples, or a decent printer tell them you want the white vinyl used in Graphic sign making.. Staples I think I ended up paying $10 bucks a sheet ...so I made a few..takes no time. I didn't pre shrink mine... but is a good idea as FO81 did nice write up
If you can install the Speedo Decal without removing the needle or stop pin.
Your Good
Your ..your gonna have to cut the decal...That's a no,no It's much easier working with thicker vinyl... I would Do it right take it a part..clean and paint everything..."You are already there" no sense slapping it back to together
I painted the rings flat black and the plates white, polished chrome rings.
I would say it took 3 or 4 days taking my time FWIW So if you have Opelitus bad enough it won't matter lol

We should make a vote pole...Who has white gauges in there Opel ?

Good Luck
 
#28 ·
I saw the new printer working today. It does pretty good quality.
I believe the tech said it was 1200 DPI (laser quality).

I've been working, this evening, on getting the dieline made for the white face gauges. I will need to make a few tests. I'm also refining some of the weaker points of the VanDyke layout (nothing big, he did a good job).

I also learned a lot about the possible vinyl choices. One of the versions is highly resistant to shrinkage.

I wish there was a white printer ink installed in our printer because we have a roll of simulated carbon fiber vinyl in stock.
 
#33 ·
LED lights look great in a dash! White/blue instead of the sickly green on most dash lights. The PROBLEM I had when I replaced some unreplaceable dash bulbs in my GM van is that LED's don't last long if you dim them. If I had replaced all bulbs I wouldn't have needed to dim the leds.
Yeah, I know, GT dash lights are so dim I bet no one dims them anyhow.
 
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