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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
refurbish not restoration

I plan to refurbish not rebuild or completely restore the "Puddlejumper", my badly rusted 1968 Opel Kadett B model 31 notchback 2door sedan. I don't have time, facilities or money, especially money, to strip and vat a car body or do the professional level of restoration which usually appears on this forum. While working under my shade tree I would like to apply a rust converter using something simple like a brush for open areas and a spray bottle or garden sprayer for recesses that can't be reached with a brush. In the past Extend was used on some welded patches in the floor and did not last very long. The car body when originally manufactured was apparently dipped and has some paint in the inaccessible recesses and quite a bit here and there on the normal exposed areas.
I have the following questions:
1. Is there a rust converter coating that when applied it will not hurt to overlap the existing paint? What about areas which can't be reached to sand or scrape. Will it achieve good adherence even on the old paint spots?
2. I do not want to remove the wiring, switches, gages,etc. Will it harm the wiring? Will it harm plastic parts?
3.What cleaning should be done prior to applying the coating? I plan to wire brush and lightly sand where I can and then wash with degreaser then soap and water.
4.What about after sanding and cleaning just painting the whole thing with something like Rust Destroyer. Has anybody tried anything like that with any success?
5. I am using a little flux core welder to patch rusted out floor. What do you recommend to remove weld flux and treat the welds?
6. I want to stay away from the hard to handle stuff like POR-15 and the other isocynates. Is Extend or The Destroyer about as good as it gets for a halfway job like this? Do you have any brand names to recommend and additional ideas or suggestions regarding such products on this project?.
7. After applying the coating would applying 3M cavity wax be of any real benefit in slowing down the rust?
8. Has any one used Somaca or Trim Lock two piece windshield mounting weatherstrip? Depending what thickness I come up with for a headliner I may try Somaca #AS-1179 or #AS-1596. That is unless somebody with experience tells me it won't work. Pieces of the origional headliner measure .016"thk I don't know if anything that thin is now avialable.
I've driven the car about 350 mile since starting her up 7 weeks ago after 5 years of setting. I would be driving the car now but keep putting my feet through the floor and am worried that the loose windshield may break or fall out.

I will greatly appreciate the answers to these questions. Thanks! Puddlejumper
 

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Hi Puddlejumper,
Nothing is wrong with what you are planning to do. The Eastwood Company has quite a few good rust preventing/converting products to choose from. The big, of course, is to make sure you have as much loose rust removed as possible to give the new coating a chance to do its job.
In inaccessible areas you may want to vacuum out the loose rust and instead of using soap/water use brake cleaner to remove any remaining traces of oil, grease, etc. It will totally evaporate and won't leave any moisture behind that could promote future rust.
For areas with lots of wiring be sure to tape them off just to ensure that the cleaners, solvent, sealers can't do any potential damage to them.
JCWhitney catalogue has quite a few products that you can buy cheaply to refurbish your car. Window seals,hood seals, and weather stripping are very easy to match with their catalogue. For my Manta I found the correct underhood seal that Opel used. Their windshield gaskets run $36.00 (tops) for a 16' roll. I don't see why one couldn't use theirs instead of paying 100's of dollars for factory correct if that isn't what you are currently looking for.
JSW also carries various generic body patch panels that can be use to patch floorboards and what not. Try them at JCW.com.
Good luck on your car!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Pastopel, Thanks and you are absolutely right on. A GT would be worth the effort of restoration. I'm just trying to squeeze a few thousand more miles out of this old Kadett to reduce my gas bill before I have to give up and take my wifes old Olds when she buys a new rice rocket in three or four more years.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Opelerjeff and Petrie, I got started yesterday and theres a lot more rust than I thought. Thanks for the suggestion on Eastwood. I may give them a try. I was hoping for something less expensive. I am wondering how well these conversion coatings penetrate the lapped joints especially around the spot welds? If it is in a paint form it seems to me that it may not penetrate to well. Has any one tried a process or solution using tannic acid as the basic conversion agent? An old smokepole enthusiast I knew soaked his gun parts in a solution of leaves and bark to get a black finish and claimed it produced iron tannate coating. He said it was better than phosphate coating. So far I found in Europe there is Fertan which is supposed to be cheaper and better but I haven't found anything here.
On the window rubber, at this point, I think I will go with Somaca on the windshield and rear window. When I ordered their catalog the AS-1179 was quoted to me at $41.25 for 50ft. Not sure yet what to do about rubber on the rear side windows. Somaca may have somethin but I haven't got that far yet. Maybe rear view mirror glue on the metal tabs. Guess I'll have to buy a couple of vacuum grippers to handle the windshield glass with. Any suggestions?
I have some 16ga HR on hand and I bought a 4' x 10' sheet of 20ga. CR for $42+ to make patches with. Requires a lot of hammerin' to shape and fit but fifty years or so ago I worked a while in a body shop and we usually reshaped a fender instead of replacing lik they do now. Right now I'm trying to figger out what to do about the rear stabilizer attachment and jack point bracket, the rusted out floor seems to run about 1” or so sandwiched between the rear seat support and the bracket. Tough to do much with without a lot of cut out. May have to do it to retain structural integrity though.
 

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tomking
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Puddlejumper, you mentioned somaca?
I think I will go with Somaca on the windshield and rear window. When I ordered their catalog the AS-1179 was quoted to me at $41.25 for 50ft. Not sure yet what to do about rubber on the rear side
Who are they and can you supply contact information on them? I have a kadett wagon for which I am looking for window rubber and have found only one place so far. what is the AS 1179? Thanks and good luck.
 

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tomking, Somaca is Sommers & Maca manufacturer of glass machinery and distributer of supplies to that industry. Their web site is http://www.somaca.com/DefaultG.asp I would supply a link but don't know that much about computers. Phone number is 1-800-323-9200 or 1-773-242-2871. They have 6 divisions around the country which you can get contact info for from the web site. The AS-1179 is a 2 piece weatherstrip. It appears it may not be as thick as the origional but looks like it would work. The catalog says .750 wide x.188to.250 glass and .093to.140 body panel thickness with .312 clearance and compound EDPM. Their AS-1596 appears to be the same dimensions. Can't tell what the difference is. The online catalog doesn't seem to have as much info as the one they sent. They have many types (one piece and two piece weatherstrip, window channels, seals, and tools, etc. and seemed eager to send the catalog. I haven't had time to study it for the side windows yet but I bet they got somthin. They don't have prices in the catalog. I think you have to order off the web site or the 1-800 number to find out the prices. Don't know if that $41.25 will still be good when I get around to ordering. Also don't know if the locking strip is included or has to be ordered seperate or what the shipping charges will be. If you use Somaca please let me know how it turns out. Good Luck, Puddlejumper
 
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