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Which way do you remove your GT engine?

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Opel fan
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I never tried pulling a GT engine from the top before. Before this past summer, I had a GT engine out 3-4 times from the bottom. So far this summer/ fall, I scrapped 4 Gts and disassembled them down to practically nothing left. I found out how easy the front suspension comes off and how easy the engine drops down with the f/s gone. No more prying the engine back to clear the crank pulley and lower the engine at the same time. It just lowers nice and easy to a wheeled dolly and since the front tires, along with the whole front suspension, are gone, I don't have to raise the car up so high. It also makes detailing or restoring the front suspension easier.
 

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was it necessary to take the valve cover off to pull the engine?
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
I don't know. I had already taken it off to put on the engine thats going into the car.
Sorry
 

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was it necessary to take the valve cover off to pull the engine?

It looks like the car was high enough that the valve cover could have stayed on. But the lifting chain often interferes with the valve cover, if you use the top starter bolt and the hole in the block on the manifold side. And you also have to remove the thermostat housing, as the diagonal chain will ride against it, and it's only aluminum and might break.

I like the earlier suggestion to make lifting lugs that are welded permanently to the cam cover plates, as it would provide a nice straight lift to the engine, and then you could use a lifting bar to balance it front to back. But I think I would want to use stronger grade (10.9) bolts, as the cam covers are only held in place with M6 bolts, even if there are three of them on each cover.

If you lift the front end 24 inches (at the jack points) and the rear 22 inches, you should have enough clearance to even leave the mounting cross member in place, and lower and remove the engine and cross member together. Then the engine can be slid out on the cross member, rather than the oil pan. Or do what I did, and make a little flat dolly (available from Sears for making saw table and drill presses mobile) that you lower the engine on to, and then it is much easier it work on. Until you get a proper engine stand, which Santa brought to our house just before Christmas.

JM2CW
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
I thought I'd have to put a longer bolt in the top starter bolt hole (as a place to hook the chain) but couldnt get the one I had in because the head came back too close to the housing and I couldnt get a wrench on it. Instead I took the starter off and then felt safe using the bolt that was in there already. I have to get the right length bolt because I don't want to mess with the starter with the engine in the car ever again.
 

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To think, it was exactly a year ago I asked the question, just how are you supposed to get the engine out?
Started a war, remember?
I've learned a lot in the last year (about GTs, anyway).
In my car, it comes out the top real easy now that the cowl is gone, there is no radiator bulkhead, or brake system in the way.
Only from a distance is it recognizable as a GT.
Regardless, from its last mockup removal the engine/trans assembly together did come out slick as a whistle From The Bottom and two guys easily lifted the car up and over the assembly. I bet two really big guys could do the same with a completely stock GT.
 

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Speedway GT hangs by bungee cords from hooks screwed into the ceiling of the garage. See it in the thread "show us your garage".
I know, it's strange. But it works. A bungee cord will pull about 30 pounds, ten of them pull 300 pounds, etc.
They are hooked to just about anything on the car. Keep in mind the body is completely off, and the chassis is a skeleton of rollcage tubing.
It's a circle track race car, you see, built like NASCAR rigs only a little smaller...
When it was stock, as I recall, we lifted the front with the boom truck, the chain hooked under the lip of the front crossmember just next to the spring.
With the motor mount, trans mount, etc. unbolted from the body and sitting on the ground, the front of the car can't weigh but about 500 pounds. I'm guessing. Heck, five guys then picked up the whole car and set it on the chassis jig. That was with all four tires on still.
Here's a picture, sorry it doesn't show what you are really wanting, it was a joke to make it look like Steve is holding the car up with his back... we had just dragged the engine/trans assembly out from under.
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
bear,

I bolted the chain to the upper bolt of the starter (using just a slightly larger bolt to make up for some of the thickness of the chain) and the other end to an unused threaded hole just above and slightly to the left (towards the rear of the engine) of where the grounding strap attaches.

Hope this helps.
 

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I own 5 of these little rascals I've pulled engines top and bottom. After it is all said and done, the bottom is the way to go. Not only is it faster it also is safer IMHO. I've really made a mess of the engine compartment paint thinking the top was easier. For the top removal, removing those bellhousing bolts while it is in the car hope you have patience and endurance. :)
 

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My method worked well enough, but I was taking everything out from under the car. I first put the car in the air and as someone mentioned before I used the steer crossmember because my car has no usable jack points due to rust. then I removed the rear end with the drive / propeller shaft with it.I then removed everything that either could be damaged or would keep the engine from dropping. I would suggest checking two or even three times and don't forget to undo nuts where the engine mounts to the crossmember. Then with a cherry picker I supported the engine with chains looped around the mounts on the engine. Then remove transmission crossmember and engine crossmember. Work from the inside to the outer bolts on the engine crossmember and get the two bolts up in the engine compartment first, also watch out it might look like a nice and snug fit but it comes out rather easy. Then I put a piece of scrap 1/4 inch sheet metal under it and lowered the engine and transmission onto it and laid it over toward the driver side. Then I pulled it out the passenger side with just enough room to clear and dumping a little oil. But I was doing this in a barn with gravel floors and about a foot and a half space in front of the car. And I don't know if it makes a difference or not but I felt glad that I didn't have the radiator in there at the time.
 

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This is a subject with some very different views to it. I for one see nothing safe about getting a car 3 feet off the ground and getting under it. Not that long ago I pulled and put back in a 1.9 base block with a 5 speed attached. At no time was the car able to fall or did I have to get under it with it that high. There is only one trick to pulling the combination together, pull the head before removal and install it last. It took me 20 minutes or so each way doing it by myself. I posted some pics of this in the 2.0 build up thread.
 

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OpelerInFlames
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greensmurf20 said:
discovered the lovely tool called "ratchet wrench"......damn them things made that so much faster, went from 5 minutes takin the top bellhousing bolts out, to about a minute!!!
Yea no doubt man i carry these things in my backpack WHEREVER i go. BTW i pulled my motor yesterday out the top. took EVERYTHING off including head and pulled it out with nothing more than a 4x4, some rope, and a hefty friend on the other side of the board. Piece 'o' cake. walked it down to my basement hanging on the 4x4. Ripped 'er open last night and discovered a rod bearing had been spun. WOOHOO. No big deal. Now onto the rebuild.
 

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OPEL-LESS!!!
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when you pull the motor out the top, all you need to do is pull the radiator and such from the front, pull alternator and disconect everything, yank the hood latch mechanism and the motor can come out with manifolds and head still attatched.
 

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OpelerInFlames
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greensmurf20 said:
when you pull the motor out the top, all you need to do is pull the radiator and such from the front, pull alternator and disconect everything, yank the hood latch mechanism and the motor can come out with manifolds and head still attatched.

much heavier with everything attached though. with no cherry picker this was about the only way i could pull it. The truth is though, i pulled the head cuz i thought i had dropped a valve--valvetrain's fine so i pulled the block and found the spun rod bearing.
 

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I was able to lift the car using a conventional floor jack, put the front tires on a floor ramp and the continue to raise the car, placing 4x4 and 6x6 timbers under the ramps until the car is high enough to slide the engine out and/or under. The car was then lowered until the engine cradle is raised high enough to bolt to the car. The first attempt took 12 hours. The second, I got smarter and rented an engine hoist, and completed the same sytem in 4 1/2 hours. Critical aspect is to make certain the ramps are solid on the timbers.
 

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Just use your head

Guys, there is no reason to be afraid of getting under something that is PROPERLY and SAFELY lifted and blocked up. Why, just today I had a Kenworth dump truck front end three feet off the floor while I slid the trans back under it. What if it fell? Well, why would it fall? I know what I'm doing... Just be careful, think about what you're doing, don't be in a hurry. Some of the above stories illustrate another absolute rule. Don't be alone when you're doing these things. You may need help, at least to hand you a phone so you can dial 911.
 

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Discussion Starter · #59 ·
If you have a cherry picker and some decent jack stands I can't imagine it being much easier than dropping the engine/transmission out the bottom, then sliding it out from under the car. No banging around, no twisting this or that or scratching this or that, just undo the engine and tranny crossmember mounts and let it down. Then, with the car in the same position, the new engine w/tranny attached lifts easily back up and every thing lines up just right. My teenaged son helped me and was surprised at how easily we could change out an engine, and it was our first time.
 

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not trying to flare a fight, but i do it as dave does, only i leave the trans in the car, and keep the engine complete. altho i have a header now, i may have to remove the manifolds to get the complete engine out, but manifolds can be left on if they're a stock set. i'll take pics when my engine comes out this winter for a regasket.
 
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