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Opeler
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
engine out - preventative maintenance

i will be droping my engine out of my new opel gt in the next couple of days because of several oil leaks. i figured i needed to remove the engine and replace all of the gaskets and make sure everything is tight. once i get it out, what are some things that i should replace or inspect even if they arent a problem at the moment?

my game plan now:

change all gaskets
clean and possibly paint the engine
--put the engine back in
install an electrionic ignition, probably an xr700

should i look into upgrading the trans?

oh, and ive never done anthing like this before. auto repair is my new hobby it seems. its easier than PHP and MySQL. :)

ps: what are some nubile mistakes i should watch out for? i know im bound to do something stupid...
 

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OPEL-LESS!!!
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the only advice i have is to mark all of your vacuums and electrical wires, wrap tape around them and use a pen or sharpie to write on the tape what the vacuum or electrical wire goes to. a few pics would be nice if you are going to have the engine out for a week or so....
 

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Detritus Maximus
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2,994 Posts
New seals for the front timing cover, rear main seal, transmission seals (front, rear, and side. There is a modification for doing one of the trans side seals, but it is really easy).

I wouldn't worry too much about a trans upgrade with a stock motor, but I would clean and lube the shifter/linkages.

Resurface the flywheel and pressure plate.

Inspect the sealing surfaces of the crank pully and the forward end of the driveshaft. If they are scored, grooved, or corroded, install 'Readi-sleeves' on them. These are very thin metal (1/2 milimeter or .020) collars that give the timing cover seal or the rear trans seal a new surface to ride on. They work like a charm. Oh, and you use the stock size seals, too. Easy to install and relatively cheap.
http://www.federal-mogul.com/cda/content/front/0,2194,2442_7705_7689,00.html

Check the upper alternator bracket mounting hole in block/timing cover for ovaling. If it is oval, you will get a lot of vibration which may damage the alternator, mount, or cause the bolt to loosen. It is a simple matter to drill it to install a bushing.

Check the cam thrust button that screws into the front of the cam for damage and proper clearance.

With the engine out, install the intake/exhaust manifolds and make a wrench that will loosen the oil pressure sending unit (much easier to do with the motor out).

Clean, inspect, and lube the clutch arm/pivot bolt/tube.

My advice to someone new to this type of work would be to either buy a second Opel motor to practice disassembly and reassembly techniques. The motor doesn't have to be any good, just something to take apart and put back together again. If that is not practical, go to a junkyard that lets you take off stuff yourself and just take things apart. 'Exploratories' are fun! It's a good way to learn to use new tools (like 'pullers', torque wrenches (nice way to get a feel for stripping out a sparkplug hole or what a 6mm bolt feels like as it either breaks off or strips out the aluminum head) without risking your own precious parts.
 
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OPEL-LESS!!!
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opelbits: once again thats great advice, especially the last paragraph...lol
 

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Detritus Maximus
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People learn more when things go wrong. In theory......;)
 

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OPEL-LESS!!!
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thats the way you learn, but i think we would all agree its the most agrivating way to learn....lol
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
argh

man that service manual is short on directions...

i am to the point of detatching the transmission from the drive train. i cant see how to though. do i disassemble one of the U joints?

i cant find a definitive step-by-step guide anywhere on how to take the engine out. i mean, besides the service manual...

help
 

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OPEL-LESS!!!
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i assume you're pulling the engine from the bottom....? if so there will be one pin with a "C" clip that holds the shifter on, remove the "C" clip with a regular screw driver, push the pin out of the shifter and pull it up off the tranny. there will be 2 bolts holdin the transmisson cross over to the sub frames, and 2 bolts that hold the transmission mount to the transmission its self. the clutch cable just has a little "ball" that pops out of the clutch fork, very easy to do and the speedo cable unthreads off the tailshaft. the for the drive shaft, there is 4 bolts that need to be taken out. its a "U" bolt that holds each cap of the universal joint to the shaft inside the torque tube. take the nuts off both "U" bolts, and then push the driveshaft as far as you can into the transmission to allow the room needed to pull the U bolts. then the engine and transmission can be dropped as one unit, if your goin to split the transmission and the bellhousing, then the easiest way is: take the 4 bolts out that hold the transmission to the bellhousing. the top two and the bottom drivers side one are not bad if you have extensions and impact swives which i have come to love. the lower passenger side one will be a SOB!!! exhaust dont allow for a wrench to get in there and a socket will not fit. once the transmisson is seperated from the bellhousing, take the 6 bolts out fixing the transmission to the engine block, the top 2 may be a pain, but nothin too serious. and thats how i remove the transmission/bellhousing. i'm sure other people do it differently so anybody else wanna add to this, i'm sure i missed something else.....OH YA disconnect the clutch spring off from the clutch fork. think i got it all, but i'm sure i missed something so please finish this up somebody, but this will get you started
 

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Super Moderator
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Good job, Jared, that's pretty much it. The manual does leave some things up to the mechanic, while other times it describes, in detail, the obvious.

As for the engine dropping instructions, I thought it might be helpful to print the FSM procedures, for those bereft of such a book
 

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Super Moderator
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Page Six

Page Six. I use an engine hoist, not a floor jack, and drop it onto a piece of plywood, so the car only has to raised 24 inches at the front jack point, and 20 inches at the rear jack point. Note the front of the car in the picture; it was a pre-production model and had fared-in driving lights and the corner lights wrapped around the front
 

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Opeler
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
thank you

thank you VERY much!

i have an engine hoist and i have disconnected everything that needs to including the drive shaft (thanks greensmurf20) and i plan on using the following meathod:

connect hoist to engine and lift slightly to relieve pressure on the bolts underneith.

remove bolts that connect engine mount to chassis

remove bolts that connect transmission mount to chassis

lower engine while still connected to engine mount and transmission mount unti a piece of plywood (so i can drag in out from under the car)

use hoist to raise front of car high enough as to allow the engine to be dragged out.

ive read that it isnt necessary to raise the rear of the car. if i need to to get clearance i will.

im kinda a freak about ordered lists and i also dont want to break my opel

vurx
 

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Dropping the Engine

Here is how high I raised my GT (the engine is just "waiting" above the car; it came out the bottom. I have been a bit busy lately with home reno's, hence the paint tins)
 

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Detritus Maximus
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My method for pulling the engine:
I went and bought a couple of 4x4 posts (4"x4"x8', treated, outdoor) and cut them up into 15" lengths. Then I cut a 2"x8"x8' plank (again, treated lumber) into 15" lengths. I then attached three 4x4 sections crosswise on a plank, one at each end and one in the middle, making a nice platform. Repeat this three more times. Using four normal height cast iron base jack stands (not sheetmetal type, just don't trust them as much) raise front of car as high as possible with large floor jack (I don't waste my time with the 'small' jacks and my Chinese made two ton only cost $60) and support on jack stands. Next, raise rear of car in same manner. At this point, using a couple of extra 4x4's under the jack, I raise the car high enough to get 'platforms' under the two front jack stands (make sure there is enough room between the platforms for the hoist legs). Then do the same at the rear. The jack stands can be at their lowest, most stable setting, but you now can remove, disconnect, and disassemble to your heart's content. When you are ready to lower the engine, raise the front of the car higher (enough to clear the motor, I take mine out separate from the crossmember) and adjust the jack stands accordingly. Lower the motor onto a piece of plywood and pull it out from under the car.

Conversely, you can put all four car tires onto the platforms, disconnect and lower engine to the ground and then lift the front of the car high enough and put it on jack stands. This works if you have a suitable hoist, as some I've seen just aren't right for it.
 

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Premium Member
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I'm lazy

vurx- Your method should work, just be sure you hook the hoist to something solid on the car.

I have had pretty good luck getting everything loose with the front of the car on ramps, dropping the motor and trans to the ground, and then lifting the front of the car up and over the motor, rolling it off on the back wheels. Put a couple of breaker bars in the jack points as handles for two of your friends, and have another two lift at the wheels and up it'll go! With the drivetrain removed (and a full tank of gas) the front of the car really is pretty light.

Probably not the best method, but certainly cheap and quick.
 
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