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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Again

Been taking a break from my 70 GT since taking in an 86 Porsche 944 (a joy to work on, LOL). Anyway, back to the GT. I'm trying to rebuild the rear brakes and can't for the life of me get the drums off. You can turn the drums fairly easily by hand so the pads aren't suck but they look like they have never been off. Before I go to the 3 pound sledge and beat the heck out of them and brake something, is there a safer, better way to pull the drums off? Am I missing something that is holding them on?

At a bit of a loss,
Todd
 

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Hello Again

Been taking a break from my 70 GT since taking in an 86 Porsche 944 (a joy to work on, LOL). Anyway, back to the GT. I'm trying to rebuild the rear brakes and can't for the life of me get the drums off. You can turn the drums fairly easily by hand so the pads aren't suck but they look like they have never been off. Before I go to the 3 pound sledge and beat the heck out of them and brake something, is there a safer, better way to pull the drums off? Am I missing something that is holding them on?

At a bit of a loss,
Todd
Todd;
If you're not in a hurry, get some PB Blaster and spray the area where the drum meets the center , and wait a day or two, then pop it a couple times near the center, don't hit your studs, and see if you can wiggle it loose. Some people heat the center area with a butane torch and get some wax to wick in and sometimes that works, I had a HUGE two-jaw gear puller that ALWAYS popped the drums of, you may be able to find one at a tool rental. When you get the drums off, take some sand paper and lightly go around the hole in the drum, and then coat it with axle grease, or anti-seize compound.
Good luck
 

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Ridge on drums

I have had the same problems in the past getting those drums
off...it's the ridge on end of drum...sand that off or get new drums as I don't think shops cut them anymore

Here is my trick... first I slack the adjustment out of the e brake cable (back off 13 mm e brake tee nut)
Spray center with pen. Lube. Then hammer center and sides (where the shoes sit ) a pop and should come off
If not then go for the puller and it will pop off...never hammer off from the back edge..that will cause damage
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #4
OK, I'll try that. If I have to get a puller is there any precautions I should take or is the center solid enough to push against?
 

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I have had the same problems in the past getting those drums
off...it's the ridge on end of drum...sand that off or get new drums as I don't think shops cut them anymore
As long as the drum is still within spec
after turning....sure.
If it's over the max allowable...trash can the sucker!
 

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I have had the same problems in the past getting those drums
off...it's the ridge on end of drum...sand that off or get new drums as I don't think shops cut them anymore

Here is my trick... first I slack the adjustment out of the e brake cable (back off 13 mm e brake tee nut)
Spray center with pen. Lube. Then hammer center and sides (where the shoes sit ) a pop and should come off
If not then go for the puller and it will pop off...never hammer off from the back edge..that will cause damage
Good luck
I'll add that if you have to use the puller, put pressure on it and then smack it with a hammer.

O'Reilly's turns drums as well as rotors IF they are in spec. $12/ea. down here.

Harold
 

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Make sure the shoes are retracted first. There is a large hex head adjuster on the backing plate. Tighten it until the drum stops turning; turn back a half turn to loosen the shoes. They should spin easily.

The drums always get stuck to the hub at the centre hole, so a bit of lube and heat can help.

Then stick a pry bar (or large screwdriver) in between the backing plate and the drum. Lever it out fairly hard, then quickly pull the pry bar out, snapping the drum back in place. Should cause the drum to "bang" a bit, which will in turn loosen the centre from the hub.

Failing that, a drum puller is the trick.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter #10
So far no luck. Before I get out the gear puller, do I need to remove the inverted dust cap (for lack of a better name) in the center of the drum? Everything so far is pretty much frozen solid even after soaking 2 days with PB Blaster. Like I said, the drums do spin fairly easily.

Brake Drum.jpg

If I need to remove it, How?

Thanks,
Todd
 

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So far no luck. Before I get out the gear puller, do I need to remove the inverted dust cap (for lack of a better name) in the center of the drum? Everything so far is pretty much frozen solid even after soaking 2 days with PB Blaster. Like I said, the drums do spin fairly easily.

View attachment 177562

If I need to remove it, How?

Thanks,
Todd
The inverted dust cap is the axle itself, all solid steel.
 

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Can Opeler
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You shouldn't have to remove that grease cap. In the past I have had to spend a lot of time forcing those drums off.
Use a rubber mallet and slowly work it around the drum.
I wonder if you got a torch and heated the drum for a minute if it would expand enough to free it.
In the past I just had to knock Em around with the rubber mallet for an hour or two and they would eventually free up.
 

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Make sure the shoes are retracted first. There is a large hex head adjuster on the backing plate. Tighten it until the drum stops turning; turn back a half turn to loosen the shoes. They should spin easily.

The drums always get stuck to the hub at the centre hole, so a bit of lube and heat can help.

Then stick a pry bar (or large screwdriver) in between the backing plate and the drum. Lever it out fairly hard, then quickly pull the pry bar out, snapping the drum back in place. Should cause the drum to "bang" a bit, which will in turn loosen the centre from the hub.

Failing that, a drum puller is the trick.

HTH
If you have done what kwilford has posted and loosen e brake cable the shoes will be fully retracted and will not be touching the drum....Then
Installed the puller with center on axle center and arms to outside edges of drum ( two or three arm puller ur using? )Start dialing in puller slowly then hammer with Lg lump hammer where shoes sits (on sides front and back and press the drum right off..its much easier with the puller
The drum will come off with puller no matter what...
let us know what happen..
 

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Opeler
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What looks like white overspray in the photo is where you want to smack it hard with a heavy hammer toward the axle like you were trying to drive it on. It will pop right off. If not, you need a bigger hammer or perhaps an oak 4x4 3 feet long, something with mass. Go around in a circle. It works every time.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
 

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I won't tell you that the other replies work or don't. I WILL tell you what I've done and what I've seen done.

I use a large 3 arm puller. I center it on the center of the axle and run the arms to the back of the drum. I MAKE SURE that they aren't on the backing plate. Then I turn the puller til it's pretty darned tight.

If that doesn't get it loose, I will start tapping a hammer around the drum in a circle along the 90 degree part.
If that doesn't do it, I tap the hammer pretty good right next to the axle (between the lugs) a few times for each spot.

Then if that doesn't do the trick I crank the puller tighter and tighter while turning my head away and swuinting really hard and then it goes BANG!!! and the drum is off.


What I've seen done is a long slide hammer on a 1" rod. It took a few tried but the drum came right off.
 

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Put the lug nuts on (loosely) before you start swinging a hammer or you'll end up boogering up the threads.
 

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Opeler
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Up here in Quebec, Canada brake drums get really frozen to the center hub on the axle. We just heat the drum almost red around the center then give the center a good hit with a large hammer. Sometimes while heating the drum you hear a clack as it breaks away from the center. Sometimes we use a pry bar between the back plate and the drum to help move the drum away from the center after it has been heated. Before reinstalling the drum we buff up the center hole and around the center of the axle. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Good idea Yellaopelgt, already dinged one a little but not bad enough that the lug nut wouldn't go on. Now they're all back on. Anyway, tried it all so far and still won't budge. Borrowed the biggest wheel puller (8") Autozone had and it's too small. Guess I'll try to find a 10" or 12" and try that tomorrow.

Ain't givin' up yet!
Todd
 

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The first time is always the hardest! I used a little heat on mine and after I figured out the adjusters they came right off. I always clean up the surface where the axle mates up to the drum. As a rule of thumb anything I'll have to take apart again I use antiseize! But don't use antiseize on lug nuts.
 
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