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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am replacing the shaft inside the steering column because I messed up the threads on the end of it due to the fact that the steering wheel puller crushed the soft threads to the point it can not be used anymore. :( I even kept the nut on it! But what is done, is done.
Has anyone taken the actual shaft out of the steering column? I have a spare that I am going to replace it with but I can't figure out the best way to remove the old one. I have the column out of the car so it would be easier to work on. I have also read the factory service manual but it seems too vague to me.
Any suggestions? Thanks for any help...
 

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Depending on what is there or not there now will change this. First you remove the serrated bit type bolt from the coupling at the end of the column. Second is to remove the steering wheel if you haven't already. Third is to remove the outer housing from your switch area by removing the 3 phillips screws. Normally the key switch, electrical ignition switch and column lock assembly need to be removed to get this part off. Electical switch has one standard screw and the lock has a large phillips facing forward. You will also have to open the column lock to remove it out the electrical switch side. There are 3 m10 bolts that need to be removed that attach the switch assembly. Once removed the switch assemby can be slipped off and your actual shaft can be removed. It comes out the top and a very slight tap may be needed. Keep in mind when putting it back together that the lower coupling also locates the shaft play up and down. The lower bearing is a 6004 rs or depending on the maker a 2rs which just means it has 2 rubbur shields. The upper bushing is not going to be an off the shelf item so be careful with it. HTH
 

· Old Opeler
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Wee Squashed Thread

The thread above the steering wheel hub is small and very soft - as many of us have found. When using a puller to remove the hub the forces MUST be transfered down onto the shoulder below the thread.

This can be done by using a sleeve with a hole the size of the thread in it that is closed one end for the puller bolt to wind in against. A suitable size socket from a socket set will do in a pinch - but must clear the thread and not be pushed through the centre of the steering wheel hub or it will remove the serrations which hold the hub from turning.

I know what I speak of as I have one shaft with a sqashed thread too .....
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update on Shaft removal

There is a spring located under the steering wheel adapter and is held in place by a retainer "ring". The retainer "ring" is held in place by the spring putting pressure on the OD of the ring and simply holding it to the shaft. I removed the spring and ring and the whole shaft fell out the lower end of the tube column. Needless to say, I was surprised at how simple it was.
But now the question is what size is the "star" bit that holds the upper part of the universal joint to the shaft? I am going to take it to a tool specialty store tomorrow and see if they have anything. I have a sick feeling this tool will be hard to find.
Thanks for your inputs...
 

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I've tried twice to get the steering wheel off the shaft......once in the car and I messed up the threads and had to grind my way down until the nut would (barely) go back on. Then I took the thing out of the car, used a socket to keep from ruining more threads and the puller started deforming the backside of the steering wheel to the point that I could barely, after ALOT of effort, get the puller out of the holes in the wheel. I put it back in the car and will continue to drive it without a horn.
 

· Pathologic Opeler
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spare partial column

I have a spare column. no ignition wires or turn signal flapper piece.
if you need it,its yours.(I was lucky "nobody" helped me with another more
complete column..since I needed ignition wires too.I agree..its confusing how to strip it down to the center axle).

threads are perfect.

I will send it to you at no charge,the price is a donation to this website at your discretion and convenience.
 

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Ok I'm gonna catch hell again but as I typed my initial reply I was taking one apart just so I knew and see if my spare was a good one. I tried a few things to get the wheel off with no luck. I was debating the idea of a cutom made puller when I decided to try some heat. I used a mapp gas torch and it heated the outside very quickly, especially since I had taken the 6 bolts out and the wheel itself was off. THE COLUMN WAS NOT IN A CAR, do not ever do this in a car. After heating it I went to tap it lightly on a concrete floor with a piece of wood on it. I turned it over and the piece fell off. Go figure
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Steering column from Bucky

Bucky,
Yes, I can use the steering column shaft you offered. I will be more than willing to pay for it, especially the shipping. I have sent you a private message with my address.
Thanks...
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
sqashed threads

I know you could probably build up the end of the shaft with weld and turn it back down on a lathe and recut the threads. The threads are metric 10 x 1.5. You would have to be careful when welding the end where the threads are so as not to warp the shaft from the heat. It can be done but you have to be careful.
 

· Old Opeler
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Threads

opelgt722002 said:
I know what I speak of as I have one shaft with a sqashed thread too .....

Any chance of cutting new threads ?
The simplest repair is to drill a correct size hole down the shaft after removing the squashed thead and tapping it for a 6mm or 1/4" thread so that a cap screw can be used to hold the steering wheel hub on.
 

· Pathologic Opeler
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drilling down the center

I did that with my last column, use a grade 8 bolt, metal is soft and drills easily.

it worked til i found a better column with a better electrical,..heck ..it may be
stronger than stock.
 

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· Pathologic Opeler
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more detail

my repair was never welded..i just retapped the few remaining threads then drilled down the center to tap a bolt.
 
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