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jordan said:
I am now reassembling the light rotators but I only have 2 wires on the passenger side for the micro switch and I only ever remember there being two because I thought it peculiar, any ideas? The wires are yellow/black and black.
Black wire to the "common" terminal, black w/ yellow stripe to the "NO" (Normally Open) terminal on the passenger side micro-switch. Which, according to my '70 FSM, are the correct colours and wires for the pre-'71 GT. One of several differences between the early and later GT's.

HTH
 

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I reinstalled the headlight bucket and rotator but it won't latch in the open position, is there anything I can do to trouble shoot wiht out taking it apart.
 

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Jordan, it takes the rotating mass for the arm and attached locking pin to impact the latches and force the latches to open against spring pressure. You can't just rotate the assembly slowly to get it to latch. Try to lube the area heavily, to see if that will help. You can also disconnect the rod at the cable attachment and operate the rod/rotating mechanism manually to see if that will help lock the mechanism, but you really have to use some force to get the latches to move. HTH.
 

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The rotating force would be the first thing I checked out.

However, if you somehow got the rotating cogs switched, the latching arm will be out of position to latch properly when rotated.

One way to check this out, at least it worked for me. You will be able to latch them if your push hard on them. BUT, they will not come unlatched without having to trip the release mechanism inside the hood area.

I found out by installing a driver side cog in the passenger side rotator.

Hope that helps if force doesn't. There should be some good photos earlier in the thread showing the differences between the two cogs.
 

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I have swung those open with plently of rotating force but the little locking arms and guts just go flush with the rotator mechanism housing.
 

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Jordan, this may be preaching to the choir, but I would, in your case, if things aren't working as they should, remove the suspect mechanism and thoroughly clean the whole thing again, really good. Then, lube it liberally with a good penetrating lubricant. Operate the mechanism several times by hand in both directions ensuring the latches are locking and unlocking. As Keith stated in this thread several posts below, or above, he has had non-working mechanisms function after a good soaking in his cleaning tank. There is a lot of years of gunk and dirt that can jam up the works. I thought I had mine working o.k. at one time, but a week or two later, just playing with them, they had jhammed up on me again, so, I cleaned and lubed them again. Just checked them a bit ago and they are still working o.k. HTH.
 

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well luckily with some silicon precision lubricant it now works like a charm, but the bucket removal and replacement did not go leaving the paint unscathed :(
 

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A stupid question?

Hi, I have nothing to contribute here but I was wondering how much effort should be required to make the headlights spin? I'm a newbie and my 73 is my first experience with a GT. I can make the lights work but it takes a good pull on the lever to make it happen.
 

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it does require a good pull to get them to flip and lock.
 

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I rewired the headlights and nothing, no power up front. The only think I can think of is the microswitch on the passenger side isn't working or hooked up, also I didnt realise that there wasn't a recessed area to pass the wire through so it doesn't crush it. Any Ideas before I rip the whole mess out again? the only thing I can think of is cutting the micro switch wires and crossing them and if they turn on it is the switch or the switch wires.
 

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You can look at the cog pictures listed earlier in this thread and see that the last tooth is a half tooth. (It looks broken off.) This is to allow the momentum of the rotating headlight to break free of the rotating teeth and latch them in the open or closed position.

That is one of the reasons for lubricating the actuator arm, rod and cover, and the rotator mechanisms. This relieves the stress put on the opening rod and gives it a longer life.
 

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All I achieved from cutting the switch wires was ending up with 2 cut wires. I guess Im going to take it all apart again
 

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The passenger side headlight microswitch has 3 tangs for electical connectors, though I only have 2 wires to work with, as I saw with keith's post and I hooked them to the right tangs but why are there 3 spade connectors? also I have continuity at each spade either one whether the switch is open or closed. something doesnt seem right there becuase the circuit should be open or closed in one of the 2 positions. I would like to wrap this up tonight so a timely post reply would be appreciated.
 

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The micro switch is a standard switch with a common and one normally open contact and one normally closed contact. So if you determine which one is the common (it should be marked) then it is easy to test the switch with a meter or a battery and a light bulb. Sounds like you might have a broken switch. I will go look at my 24 x 36 schematic, which you can also view if you have adobe reader, because I posted it in the electrical section. It says that it is a video but it is not, it is a pdf file, in color. Anyway, I believe the two wires should go to the common and to the normally open contact, either way it does not matter which wire is on which contact because it is only a simple on off switch. If I see that it should be the other way around I will re-post.
 

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the only way the the circuit can be broken on the passenger side switch is if the driver side bucket is not locked in the open position (open circuit on the driver side) I am not getting any power to either light, could this all be the head light relay ironically not working or does that just control the high beams, becuase I am not hearing the click when I flip the high beams, though that may work after the lights are on and all the circuits are closed.
 

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Looks like I am wrong. There should be 3 wires, one is a ground which is brown and goes to the normally closed contact. There is a grey/green wire that goes to the common, which is the wire that turns on the high beam indicator on the dash. The third wire is white/yellow which goes to the headlight relay.
 

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the early model headlight microswtich on the passenger side only has 2 wires, yellow/black=normally open and black=common. though it still has 3 spades on the switch which is kind of perplexing
 

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It appears to me that the only thing the switch on the passenger side does is turn on the headlight indicator on the dash.
 

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could that bulb work as the charging system in many british cars (and opel maybe) if the bulb is blown it is left as an open circuit and will not charge or in this case put power to the headlights?
 

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Jordan, I have the pax side rotator in my lap with the lugs marked as follows:
The lug on the side of the switch closest to the center of the mechanism is Grey/Green, the center lug on the bottom of the switch is White/Yellow, and the lug fartherst away from the center of the mechanism outboard is Brown. If you need I can post a pic, I labeled mine and put a clear coat over the labels. HTH.
 
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