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I don't have an early schematic, but on the '73 two of the micro switches are used just to indicate that the headlights are locked in the open position. The third switch, which is on the driver side, is used to activate the headlamp relay, which is the one that does the "real" job, of turning on the lights. I would assume the early models are not to much different.
 

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Do you have a yellow/black wire on one of the switches on the driver side. If you do, that is the wire that supplies the 12v to the relay to turn on the lights. To test the relay, which also runs through the high/low beam relay, you just have to put 12v on the yellow/black and the lights should come on. I believe you would not even have to have the ignition switch on, but I am not positive.
 

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Jordan, you need to get hold of "nobody", Dave, he's fairly strong on the early GT headlight wiring. Markandson is using the same schematic as I am, one of J.J. Wheatley's pieces of art. FYI, there are two relays, at least on the later GTs, maybe yours also, one controls the power going to the headlights and parking lights, it is controlled by one of the left side microswitches. The power lead is a red 12 gauge wire coming from one of the 4 studs in the center of the fuse panel. Because all 4 studs, at least on the later models, are hot either from the battery or alternator through the ammeter, your lights should be on whenever the buckets are rotated open. HTH, again.
 

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Jordan, in the photo gallery, under tech stuff, there is a schematic showing your car. The switches are totally different than the later model. Two of the switches in your car, including the one on he pass side control the headlight relay. The third switch, which is on the driver side controls the dash indicator. You do appear to have the yellow/black wire, which is still the wire that turns on the relay to light the lights.
 

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Bo Know's '69's
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Passenger side rotator

I don't have a microswitch on my passenger side of my '69. :thinking: I just re-wired the car and i used JJ's print and it showed a switch on that side. I wired it leaving the pass. side switch wiring out. Do the headlights work ok just from the switch on the driver side? Any disadvantage to just one? I'm getting ready to put the rotators back and now would be a good time to find out.

Bo
 

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Bo, read the post I put in here to Jordan. The early GTs only had the microswitches on the driver's side. You should get hold of Dave, "nobody" to be sure before you put the driver's side rotater back in. Just to be on the safe side and not have to take it back out.
 

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The switch on the pass. side and the second switch on the driver side are both to indicate that the lights are in the locked open position. On the later cars the two indicator switches are in series so that if either on of them is not closed the light does not come on. There is no problem with not wiring the pass. side in.
 

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This is a very wide open area when working on GTs. You can't go strictly off any one print for the headlight switching. I've seen different wire colors and number of switches during a single model year, my last 2 were both 72s and they were different. For the headlights I'd recommend the Chiltons manual that has almost all the years supplemented with a 69 or 70 FSM. Same holds true for the dash and column.
 

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Hi Keith,
First I want to thank you for such a well documented procedure to fix the rotators. Supurb work.

I have working headlights now, but they do take a little effort, and I want to KEEP them working. Can you show us where exactly to get in with the white lithium grease to lubricate things? Preferrably, with the least amount of disassembly.

I need a step by step guide like this with pictures for the preventative maintenance!

Thanks,
 

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Discussion Starter #51
asdasc said:
Hi Keith,
First I want to thank you for such a well documented procedure to fix the rotators. Supurb work.
I have working headlights now, but they do take a little effort, and I want to KEEP them working. Can you show us where exactly to get in with the white lithium grease to lubricate things? Preferrably, with the least amount of disassembly.
I need a step by step guide like this with pictures for the preventative maintenance!
Thanks,
You are quite welcome. I think a SMALL amount of lubricant is better than too much, as it will tend to gather dirt and become a hindrance rather than a help. I used a bit of of spray "Fluid Film" on the sliding surfaces of the outer gear, and a bit of white lithium grease on the teeth.
 

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Can you get at those areas with the nozzle of a spray can without tearing everything apart? Maybe under the hood or with the lights flipped half over?

I looks like the parts that need to be lubricated are deep inside, right? What about the cable? If it is ok now, is it enough to just lube the ends a little?

Thanks,
 

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Steve, I would lube both ends of the cable and take the top covers off and spray the rotators with some light lube. Only three screws per light. I have to do this again as mine started acting up yesterday as I was checking things for the trip to Charlotte. I think they were not locking in and my "White light" wasn't coming on as they transitioned. This morning it worked correctly, but as I will be traveling in the early morning hrs, I need headlights and as you said it is good preventative maintenance.
Jarrell
 

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i've worked on a lot of cars for the family business and we like to use "PB penetrating catalyst" its magnetic so it will work even if the bolt head is facing down. its never failed on me and I'm quite certain you'd love it too
 

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Looks like I've got nothing but fun ahead. The second of the three little M5 screws broke the other day. I knew one was broken a long time ago but this second one breaking is hindering the rotation of the headlights now...

I had one headlight out a long time ago before paint so I kind of know what to expect in that regard. Hope my paint survives! :sigh:
 

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If you can't get the bolts that are supposed to be in the mechanism, SAE 10-32 bolts will work just fine. The thread and pitch are an almost exact match. Just be sure to use high grade ones, the common hardware variety are too soft and won't last very long. Use masking tape around the perimeter of the bucket hole and on the bucket too, maybe even two layers. It's so easy to ding the paint getting the buckets out.
 

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This is such a great thread especially the photos of Keith's. Thank you!!

How much pressure is needed to lock and unlock the rotors? I'm not as strong as I used to be, but it takes two hands to lock the rotors and even more to unlock them when they are out of the car. Is this typical? I've cleaned them thoroughly and relubricated them, but they are still tough. Please advise.

Denny
 

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Denny, when I had mine out, I grabbed the rotating arm and squeezed it like a pair of pliers. It did take quite a bit of force, the overlocking springs are hefty. Once they are unlocked it should rotate easily. You have to remember the rotating mass of the complete assembly is what locks the buckets either open or closed, and a hefty pull or push on the handle is what unlocks the overcenter lock jaws. HTH.
 

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It's hard to tell by the picture but it does look to be the same microswitch that's in the headlight buckets. The actuating arm may be a bit too short though.
 
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