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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Can ne1 give me pointers on replacing a water pump? I used to be pretty mechanical back in high school but it's been a few years since I've done my own maintenance. And my Chilton book on Opels has gone missing.

I've looked around in the technical forum and in the library in this site but didn't find anything on replacing water pumps.

What tools will I need and what will I encounter? I have a 2.4L engine. Are there any differences from the 1.9L block?

Thanks,

Manny
 

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Welcome to the group, Manny.

Haven't done a water pump on a 2.4 but it should be just like the 1.9. It's a pretty straightforward job. It's a lot easier if you pull the radiator. just disconnect the shroud, remove the hoses, one bolt on the bottom and out it comes. Loosen the belt, 4 bolts on the fan, unbolt the pump.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks Gary,

When you mention the fan, are you saying that I will have to remove the fan as well as the radiator?

Manny
 

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Yes. You will have to remove the fan as well as the radiator.
 

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Don't forget you'll also need to remove the front pulley from the crankshaft to gain access to one of the water pump bolts. The pulley usually slides right off when the large retaining bolt is removed.

-Kurt
 

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well, with the radiator and the fan out of the way, you don't really have to remove the crank pully, I never have. Granted it's a little extra work, but, I have had no problems.
 

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Ok, so what's the secret to getting the bottom water pump bolt off without taking the crankshaft pulley off. I've swapped water pumps before and have always had trouble (meaning lots of knuckle scraping on the radiator) with the bottom bolt. Is there a secret tool, am I missing something, or is it just difficult and I should deal with it.
 

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A ratchet wrench helps since it's in such a tight place. Sears and a bunch of other places sell them. It is just difficult esp with the radiator in. I changed mine when I had the engine out last year, plus the crankshaft pulley was off. To me it was just cheap insurance, not to heat up the atmosphere later by turning the air blue and to save my knuckles. ;) While the water is out of the radiator, you may as well check the thermostat too. I found an aftermarket thermostat did not work as well as one from OGTS. I believe it was in the diameter of the thermostat opening. Jarrell
 

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Yes, you can remove the lower bolt without the crank pully. Use a boxed end wrench. It will take time, but it can be done. It is much easier to remove the crank pully.

If you have a fan clutch on your fan, the single bolt holding the fan on has left handed threads, i.e. clockwise to loosen and counterclockwise to tighten(opposite of a regular bolt). If you have 4 bolts holding the fan on, they are regular threads.

WARNING, when you replace the bolts with the new water pump, DO NOT over torque the bolts. Steel Bolts in an aluminum(aluminium for the UK) timing cover will strip the threads in the timing cover very quickly if you overtorque. If you do strip a bolt, get the next length bolt and you will be able to bite on the remaining threads.

Just my 0.02

Jeff
 

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madhatterpdc said:
Ok, so what's the secret to getting the bottom water pump bolt off without taking the crankshaft pulley off. I've swapped water pumps before and have always had trouble (meaning lots of knuckle scraping on the radiator) with the bottom bolt. Is there a secret tool, am I missing something, or is it just difficult and I should deal with it.
Brian, the crank pulley will come right out on the brown Ascona, and there's no fan in the way either. No puller needed, just use your hand. I find it's easier to remove the pulley than dick around with an open end wrench usually. Make sure you use a light sealer on both sides of the water pump gasket, they like to leak. HTH.

Bob
 

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I was able to get the pump off w/out pulling the crank pulley, going back together might be more tricky, we'll see. As a rule, I generally avoid sealants, goop, or snot. But I really do not want to take the pump off again just to apply sealant. Do you have a specific recommendation?
 

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madhatterpdc said:
As a rule, I generally avoid sealants, goop, or snot. But I really do not want to take the pump off again just to apply sealant. Do you have a specific recommendation?
Sorry if this is too late, but I usually just use the Permatex spray copper sealer on both sides of the gasket. Even the Felpro gaskets with the embossed 'sealer' tends to seep a bit, so any light sealer is fine. But I agree, too much goop is not good either, and many people over-do it.

Bob
 

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Spray sealer? I like the sound of that. I never liked the blue permatex stuff it just looks tacky and cobbled. Can the spray be effectivly used on other things that it is suggested that it is applyed to? Like manifold gaskets and carb to intake gasket?
 

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jordan said:
Spray sealer? I like the sound of that. I never liked the blue permatex stuff it just looks tacky and cobbled. Can the spray be effectivly used on other things that it is suggested that it is applyed to? Like manifold gaskets and carb to intake gasket?

I use the copper spray sealer for the water pump gasket, the oil pump gasket, the timing cover gaskets, the intake-to-head gasket, and even the head gasket. Love that stuff.....
 

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Is it like a copper powder with some type of fully curing resin in it?
 

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Speaking of spray sealant stuff I found a spray gasket remover for that nasty felpro form a gasket snot stuff at autozone. It actually worked so well somebody I work with swiped the can.
 

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i know of the copper stuff you talk about bob, my uncle used it on his small block circle track motor he built here. the heads were hard to get back off, its super sticky for sure. he'd spray one coat, let it tack up, spray another and let that tack up and hten put stuff together. its the only small block chevy he's put together that didnt leak somewhere, and ironically the only engine he's used that stuff on.
 

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do it up

Might I suggest. New hoses,hose clamps,and belts.I just put a new waterpump on my 1.9 last weekend .I have scrapes and scabs on both hands and forearms.I dont want to do any of it again any time soon.Oh and I had the radiator flushed as well. I have AC and it is SOOO tight. And I didn't pull the pully either.Check out the new extencions with like a wobble (for lack of a better word) tip.Also ratchet wrenches have gotten quite compact and somewhat affordable.
 

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RallyBob said:
Sorry if this is too late, but I usually just use the Permatex spray copper sealer on both sides of the gasket. Even the Felpro gaskets with the embossed 'sealer' tends to seep a bit, so any light sealer is fine. But I agree, too much goop is not good either, and many people over-do it.

Bob
Nope, not too late, In two days I've only been able to remove the water pump, flush the hoses, heater, and radiator, and replace the thermostat (too many paying customers getting in the way). I think this is at least the third t-stat since you had the car, this one is 180*, I'm pretty sure the others were 195* or they were sticking. Temps w/out a t-stat were around 130, with around 200.
 

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I replaced the water pump on my Manta this evening in preparation for Carlisle, but it was leaking badly after I had everything installed, so I have it all torn back apart. I used the copper spray sealer (on both sides of the gasket) as well. All bolts were torqued to 11ft/lbs per the service manual, and I used a dab of antiseize on all the bolts. Any other tricks? The mating surfaces were so clean you could eat off of them. I'm going to try a thin layer of RTV on either side of the gasket tomorrow and hope for the best! The good thing is, getting everything in and out is easy, but I'm quickly running out of time.

Todd K.
 
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