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Is there any way to test the reverse light switch, I have it out and I would like to test it before I put it back in, I would buy another one but I don't think that OGTS carry it for the 1970.
 

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Get a cheap VOM meter at Radio Shack. $15 - put it on conductivity test and depress the switch. If working, the meter will move when you press in the switch. If you own an Opel, you will need a VOM meter some day :cool:
 

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Aw, come on Tom. If you're gonna get a VOM, you gotta get a digital with at least a 20 amp circuit in it or higher. It makes testing out the trons so much easier. And most of them have an audio signal for continuity checking, so you don't have to have one eye on the meter and the other on the component you're checking. JMTCW. Of course I have two digitals and probably 3-4 analogs myself. :D
 

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The PO of my 71 GT, removed the wiring to to the back up light and rigged a goof ball light that does not work anyway.
Where is the light switch and can anyone tell me where the wires attach to the back up light itself? I see the screw that tightens down on one wire but where does the other wire go? I am assuming there are + and - wires. Any help would be appreciated. The shop manual I have shows only a picture of it but no explanation. Thanks, Rick
 

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I just pulled the B/U lens off of Willit?, my 72 GT to check out the wiring. There is a single Black/White wire connected as you stated. The other side of the lite is grounded to the base of the lite assembly which is screwed into the body. That gives it the ground. The back-up lite switch is on the transmission. It should have the Black/White wire and a Purple wire connected to it. The purple wire, according to my DESTEC schematic connects to the last/first fuse in the fuse panel, depending on how you look at it. HTH.
 

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I suggest not trusting the ground to be carried through the screws to the body. I would run a separate ground wire and attach it to the body inside, or splice into one of the other ground wires for the rear lights. Also I recently repaired my backup light unit and found bad contact between the negative copper spring light contact and the housing. I drilled out the rivet and replaced it with a brass screw after I cleaned the assembly completely, which restored the electrical conductivity. This is also when I put on a male 1/4" spade connector, and made a wire with a 90 Deg. spade female on it to act as the ground when I reassemble my car. If you want a picture, just ask.
 

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Jeff, I had to think about that just a little, but then when you said you removed the rivet for the lite contact, it made sense. A brass screw in a cast aluminum or pot metal casting a a good idea also. I would be leary of using a steel sheetmetal screw in the casting though. I did ohm out all my grounds in Willit? for the lites and have good ground continuity on them all, so I'm good for the time being. Nice fix on yours BTW.
 
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