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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I finally got time to pop the dash and look at my options for rewiring the car.. I thought id get some input on it before i started pulling new wire... my grandfather suggested instead of the old fuse box replacing it with a new one or maybe fuse in-line instead? Either way its gonna have the cheaper, much more widely available fuses as opposed to the ceramic ones.... Im gonna replace the wires to the ignition and bypass that fuse for now (as i dont have one to replace it) so i know where im at as far as if something works or not as right now nothing works :( anyway... I also considered making up my own labeling scheme for the wires as i replace them and making a chart so i know where each goes and what it does... any suggestions on this would be appreciated... also i need to know what amp the fuses are.. because as we all know wrong fuses = bad results for the fuses or in extreme cases the wiring(not again). anyway any input is greatly appreciated thanx.
 

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Not that long ago I started a thread about painless wiring and the "universal" kits they have. I was interested in the 18 circuit as I plan on putting in power doors and windows. I also believe the 12 circuit would be good for any GTs normal system. I was directed by Gary to look at some older posts and it seemed the poll was 50/50 on the way to go. Some said it was easier, some said stay standard. My GT goes for media blasting in 2 weeks so I will be interested to see what you do as I will be having to face this decision in the upcoming weeks myself.

Good luck.. and if you want to look at the painless stuff here is the URL....http://www.painlessperformance.com/ .... look under the web catalog.

-Sean
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Chances are your GT will be wired before mine then, due to the fact of my cash flow being depleted and the fact i dont have nearly enough time.. but ill let you know what route i do decide to take :)
 

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rust + magic = gold!
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I've been planning the layout of my GT rewiring project and wonder if anyone has relocated the fusebox functionality to within the engine compartment? It seems there is plenty of room on the driver's side near the firewall or off the brake support. It would make it alot easier to work on.

Trying to diagnose electrical problems from it's current under-dash location is a pain in the back, and also accidentally kicking the fuse block with my feet doesn't help!

Thanks,
Bob
 

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GT's have high underhood temps. You may have to up the amperage of the fuses or they could possibly 'pop' due to thermal loading. Just food for thought.....
 

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rust + magic = gold!
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Thanks for the tip!
Another version of my plan was to keep the fuseholder mounted under the dash but move the distribution block and relays into the engine compartment.
That would allow me to change the fuses w/o popping the hood - and as you pointed out - keep them away from the elevated temps.
And the distribution block would be more accessible for wiring existing and future options. Do you see any problems with this layout?
Thanks,
Bob
 

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I did a combination of rejuvenating the old fuse box and using an additional fuse block under hood. I modified the old fuse box by replacing the fuse strip with a new one that holds 10 standard fuses and I put a four fuse block under the hood. the four fuse block is constantly hot with the clock, dome light and radio wired in with an additional space for a later add on. The box under the dash is switched with the ignition and controls the rest of the electronics. BTW - you must use heavier fuses under the hood because the heat will crucify the smaller amprege fuses
 

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in about a week I plan on doing a major overhaul of my GT, and rewiring everything is part of the plan.

I hadn't given much thought to a whole new fuse box, but it does sound like the better way to go.

Just one thing, where would I get one? Is that something, say, an AutoZone would sell? Thanks
 

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I understand from a posting I read somewhre that the 700 series Volovo fuse block can be adapted to the GT. Since I also own a couple of the 700's, I know there is plenty of expansion room in this fuse block for all the circuits and for add-ons you can imagine. The Volvo also has a relay block for plug-in relays which would probably accomodate upgraded substitutes for the existing GT headlight, horn, and rear window heater relays and for converting certain circuits to relay switched devices, such as the ignition. The relay box would probably wind up under the hood remote from the fuse block. There is the added benefit that the fuse block has spade connections for the wiring and blade style fuses. I believe I will convert just as soon as I can get my hot little hands on one.

Bill and the FrankenOpel
Ummm. . . is this wire hot?
 
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