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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've been been putting this job off forever.

With the use lots of ratchets, a couple of giant c-clamps and the slow careful movements of a guy diffusing his first bomb I am proud to report all my limbs still attached. Oh and one stubborn frozen bolt that will have to wait for another day.

Hat tip to Knorm65 for the inspiring video on this process over on Facebook.

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It's amazing how much the original spring bends when released. Reminds me of a terrible sports injury where a player ends up with a foot pointing the wrong way after a bad tackle.
 

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1970 Pearl White GT
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i need to pull mine out as well and been sitting on new parts for the last few months. Saw my dad do this a few times 30yrs ago and it still scares me. lol Congrats on getting it out safely.
 

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Opeler
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This is a project I have been wanting to tackle. I'm planning to have mine powder coated when I do. New bushings, ball joints ect. Good luck with yours!
 

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I used a pair of large "C" clamps and a hardwood board (oak or maple, definitely not a softwood such as pine). Apparently, when released, the spring does develop quite a bend, requiring it be replaced. With that banana bend, if you reinstall it, the front of the car will be excessively high. I replaced mine with the two-leaf spring that OGTS has, that does not require you to take your life into your hands when installing it.
 

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Can Opeler
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I’m glad my video inspired you!
Here’s a link to the video on Facebook to those who are curious.

 

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Opel Key Master
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i need to pull mine out as well and been sitting on new parts for the last few months. Saw my dad do this a few times 30yrs ago and it still scares me. lol Congrats on getting it out safely.
You have a lowering spring on yours, so you shouldn’t have to compress it, it will come right on out
 

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The front transverse lowering spring has far less arc than the OEM spring
 

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Using the following thread might have helped you and been safer
I made a compressor that I copied from Keith Wilford, designed many years ago which worked very well.
 

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I've been been putting this job off forever.

With the use lots of ratchets, a couple of giant c-clamps and the slow careful movements of a guy diffusing his first bomb I am proud to report all my limbs still attached. Oh and one stubborn frozen bolt that will have to wait for another day.

Hat tip to Knorm65 for the inspiring video on this process over on Facebook.

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View attachment 437982

It's amazing how much the original spring bends when released. Reminds me of a terrible sports injury where a player ends up with a foot pointing the wrong way after a bad tackle.
To help someone out regarding stuck bolts on the front suspension assembly. THIS WORKS. You need the following, large plastic trash can or 55 gal. plastic drum, 1 box of arm and hammer washing soda, chunk of steel, (old lawn mower blades work great), water, battery charger. Using (electrolysis rust removal ) look it up on youtube. In 2 days of using this method, you will find that most if not ALL stuck nuts and bolts will no longer be stuck. You can also use 1x10 lumber to build a frame on the ground, lay plastic over the frame and fill it with water. Electrolysis rust removal works VERY well and is not expensive to do. There is almost always parts in my tank, I have left parts in there for weeks with no damage. When the rust is converted nothing else happens to the part. Not only will this method work for removing rust, but it works great for removing paint, and road grime off steel rims for restoration. Never underestimate the power of the front spring when taking it apart. Read the manual, make a safe spring compressor. (says a guy who had 3 fingers bent backwards and broken by my first GT)
 

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See post Nos 10, and never worry about broken fingers again.
 
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