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The last four pictures are of the car raised on the jacks from different angles. Also I noticed that with the rear end installed the trailing arms were hitting. I think that the rear cross brace can be dropped down, or out, to get the rear end in/out. Even with 1000 lb. jacks it is a little tough going up. It appears to go up easier front to back, or vice versa. I am going to add a piece of 1x2 tubing so when you take out either the front or rear cross braces, the bottom won’t spread out, and will make it easier to crawl under the car. This will be done after I install the braces.
 

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Keith’s Material list is pretty much on the money. I added two extra braces on each inside side rails and two more on the cross rail.

Here’s the material list.
6 8ft 1x2 tubing $75.60
2 10ft 1x2 tubing $45.30
4 ft 2x2 angle iron cut in 1-ft sections (from junk pile)
Don’t know how much wire on the welder I used
1 grinding wheel
4 jack Dolly’s $32ea x 4= $128
And that's it. Thanks, and a tip of the hat to Keith Wilford. Jarrell
 

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Gold Body Dolly

Hi people,
For the last week my Dad and me were working on a body dolly for the GT. This was necessary cause we needed to take off quite some bodywork in order to get all the bodywork done. since the underground our car sits on is VERY uneven we wanted to be able to get the car level. we also wanted to rotate the body. only problem with this is the back and front of the car are not very accessible cause the mounting points are at the front and the rear of the car. (two spots we have mayor repair to do on it) so we ended up building a body dolly instead of a rotisserie. the design of kwilford is very good. and as you see there is quite a resemblance to his design. only difference of ours is how it mounts to the car. we didn't like the threaded bars only holded up by a welded bolt to the frame. also this makes it not easy to work on the spots next to the jack points. we designed it so it wouldn't stick outside the car. it first goes to the inside then it goes to the frame that does extend outside the car. but then about a feet lower then the bottom of the car. making it much more accessible. we used jack dolly's without wheels under them so we wouldn't have problems with the car moving around. we will be putting wheels under it later on so we can move the car. we can adjust the car hight over a meter. cause the jack dolly's are not welded to the frame. this way we can put them all the way up when moving it around. we also put 4 water levelers? dent know how they are called exactly. so we can level the car out. then used threaded bars with a nut welded to it so we can secure the car with the air wrench. we made it from 24K gold! haha.
we used
40x40x2MM tubing total length: 18,8 Meters
4x 1,7M
4x 1,8M
24x 15CM
4x 20CM
4x 10CM

4 sheetmetal plates 70x100x5 MM

All the steel costed around 100,00 euro's = 127,00 dollars.
the body dolly's (4X) were 67,80 euro's = 86,00 dollars
the mounting brackets (4x) for it were 15,80 euro's = 20,00 dollars
2 rattle can's primer 6,50 euro's = 8,30 dollars
3 rattle can's gold paint 9,75 euro's = 12,40 dollars
4 levelers 11,80 euro's = 15 dollars

grand total of: 211,65 euro's = 268,80 dollars

this doesn't include the four wheels that will go under it in the future, but overall it was less expensive as i thought.

beneath are some pictures of it all.

pics of the build
 

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Very nice work Tom. It looks very good,sturdy too. My main reason for following Keiths plan was mobility. When I'm not working on the car, I can push it out of the way to pull in other equipment to be worked on. I also found out the other day due to necessity, I can pull the whole car/dolly off the concrete pad.
Anyone else built any dollys that they'd like to share pictures of?
Jarrell
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
VERY nice job, Tom! It's a FAR cry from the table you had used before. :veryhappy
 

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soybean said:
Very nice work Tom. It looks very good,sturdy too. My main reason for following Keiths plan was mobility. When I'm not working on the car, I can push it out of the way to pull in other equipment to be worked on. I also found out the other day due to necessity, I can pull the whole car/dolly off the concrete pad.
Anyone else built any dollys that they'd like to share pictures of?
Jarrell
thanks, yeah i wanted mobility too. but to the looks of the jack dolly's around here with weels. not sturdy enough to me. i wanted bigger wheels but that would mean less precision if i went with jack dolly wheels. si i'll be putting something like this on each corner of my frame later on so i can get the car to the painter with no wheels. rotating wheels right now i cant push it away to do other stuff :D no room for it. lol. working in the backyard in a space of 5 by 6 yards.

tom
 

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kwilford said:
VERY nice job, Tom! It's a FAR cry from the table you had used before. :veryhappy

glad you like it. yeah lots of improvement there. i had it on regular jack stands for half a year now but most of the time it was on just three of the four stands. so uneven was the underground.

tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 · (Edited)
OK,
All you enginener types (Or going to be), here is your challange.
How would plan on building a rotisserie for a GT that would only require being bolted together.
It should be able to rotate 360 and be able to use raise and lower (with jacks like that shown on the one from Flashback).
I was just looking back on a post made by Avec, or jtodd as he called himself back in 2005, and found this old thread. "benncojr" had asked the question above, which I ended up kin of answering by building a rotisserie a couple of years later:
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?t=13135
HTH
 

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Quick question, what would the ideal height for a non-adjustable body dolly for bodywork be? I'm 6' 2" so I was thinking about 2' high measured from the bottom of the car to the floor (including casters.)
 

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Quick question, what would the ideal height for a non-adjustable body dolly for bodywork be? I'm 6' 2" so I was thinking about 2' high measured from the bottom of the car to the floor (including casters.)



This is the body stand I built for Opellane and he loves it. It is based on an original RallyBob design. The only thing not shown here are the 4" casters that bolt to the pads.
 

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