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Discussion Starter #1
I have read the threads/posts regarding problems with the window that does not want to roll up straight and have tried adjusting everything - I read the Sept. 3, 2007 Window adjustment on a GT by Killer Texas GT which appears to cover all of the possible adjustments. So with all of that and the last 5 hours of experience I am still stumped. I did replace the window at one time years ago and am just getting around to trying to get it right.
  • The window rolls down fine - however requires a lot of effort to get it to roll up
  • There is very little play in the cables maybe a half inch to an inch in the lower cable - If I pull on the slack to tighten it the window will still roll up incorrectly - would adding that extra pressure normally correct the issue if it was slack in the cable
  • When rolling the window up the glass tends to lean forward leaving a gap at the rear of the window opening - with that said when I stop rolling up and back off a little it self corrects and settles into place, however that does not happen the last inch and a half to the top - I can force it and it almost closes but leaves just a very small crack and you can tell that the back is still leaning a little bit forward and not completely seated in the channel
  • I have also noticed that when the window is in the lowered position if you grab the window on both sides of the part that attaches to the slide if will move up and down - left to right or in other works it wobbles, side to side, - wanted to know if that is normal for there to be play in this part as it seems if there was no wobble then there would be no problem
  • Or am I barking up the wrong tree and need to add a pully, as described in some of the other threads so the lower wires are super tight as I have adjusted everything else
Thanking you in advance for your feedback.....Carl
 

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Über Genius
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8,826 Posts
Your guides are worn and the original winding mechanism is a piece of feces.
Replace the guides.
On the winder there are 3 rivets. Drill them out and get rid of the 50 year old grease.
Regrease with some super slippery stuff and you have a chance. There's also a good chance that the gears are broken inside the housing.

Also, to help, remove the pulleys and disassemble, clean, regrease, reassemble them.

That 50 year old grease is disgustingly inefficient.

Remember, these cars were designed like a Bic pen. They were meant to be disposed of when you got your first flat tire.
 

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RunOpel
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929 Posts
I agree with First Opel 1981, replace the guides with new guides from OGTS and clean out that old grease. You will be amazed once you have done all that. I would be surprised that you continue to have problems after doing all that.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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13,958 Posts
I don't know about taking those window cranks apart, I think that's asking for trouble, but I've never tried to do it, so I really can't nay say doing it. They have a clutch inside that adds resistance, otherwise the window would roll itself down due to vibration. Over lubing may cause the clutch not to grab.

Replacing the slider guides can stop the window from skewing, which I think is causing your binding, but the new guides can sometimes be too tight on the slider and require some modding. Lube the heck out of the slider and sand it before doing so.

The window channel rubber is probably also shot, but replacing that can sometimes add resistance.

Loosening the 2 bolts at the bottom of the front window channel and pushing the channel outwards(it's pushed all the way in at the factory) can do a great job of eliminating binding, especially as the window approaches the top. Also, try loosening the slider bar at the top and bottom and the front window channel simultaneously and try cranking the window up and down. You'll want them loose enough for the window to move them if it wants to so that they position themselves for the path of least resistance. Observe and lock the bolts down when there seems to be the least resistance.

I've F'in' hated those flimsy window cranks for 40 years and have stripped many a crank handle, so I said "Screw this!" and installed Honda electric windows.

God luck!

:)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks everyone for your advice and suggestions - I have removed the unit that holds the glass in place - and First Opel was correct about the grease it was unbelievable thick and gritty and did absolutely nothing to help but just made it more difficult for the slide to move. The comment about the Bic Pen was well received and agreed - with a GT its always something, they were just not made to last. I currently drive a 2004 Lexus and have only had it in the shop twice in the 16 years that I have owned it, with 220,000 miles. I did change the spark plugs myself, 10 hours, but saved 450.00 and I did replace the valve cover gaskets just recently, again a day and a half but saved around 500.00. Thank god for you tube could not have done it with out them....
After a really good and somewhat difficult cleaning and a spray of WD-40 the slide moves smooth as silk. Can anyone recommend a good grease or lubricant for this unit. I have to admit that when I replaced the window and the channel material 25 years or so ago that I use a white lithium grease having no idea if it is any good or not - I do not recall cleaning the rail back then, wish I had. I have removed the pulleys and will clean and regrease. I also taped the cables in place so that I do not have to learn all over again how to make that work. First time I did that it took at least a day and there was not a forum to help - just kept trying until I got lucky, never again....hopefully...
I also ordered new slides but to tell you the truth I just don't see anyway to replace them, it does not look possible and to The Scifi Guy's comment what if they don't fit correctly, not sure I want to take that chance unless I have to - also thanks for the adjustment recommendations, I had seen similar instructions on a thread from 2007 however your more detailed instruction makes a lot of sense and I will definitely follow them - I also think that it is a possibility that it was the the glass that was moving, wobbling side to side, when the slide would bind, as the holes in the glass are about twice the size as the screw and I know one of them was loose - perhaps I can find a rubber insert at the hardware store to take up the slack-won't know for sure until I give it a try but I think I will try the rubber insert and reinstall the window, with adjustments, and see how it works. I know that the cleaned slide is going to make a real difference as the window was extremely difficult to roll up.
Thanks again everyone for your assistance.
Best Regards, Carl
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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1,217 Posts
I've used silicone spray lubricant on a number of window slides. Does a good job, very slick, helps preseve any rubber parts, and easy to renew at intervals. Much better than WD40.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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13,958 Posts
I would think that maybe OGTS might have the replacement nylon washer/grommets that fill the space between the bolts and the holes in the glass. Either that or maybe someone has some used ones they can give you.
 

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Über Genius
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8,826 Posts
Don't be afraid of taking apart the crank.
in 1982 I was off at work and when I got home my mom had rebuilt both of them on the '69. They are VERY simple.
They were gunked up after 13 years. After 50 and they are even worse.

I think somewhere I posted a rebuild of one. The gear was destroyed in the one I took apart.
 
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