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Code Goober
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243 Posts
As for the question of cooling. My GT - 13b swap used what looks to be an off the shelf radiator that has been mounted at a slight angle to make the clearence. It is quite a bit large than the stock 1.9 radiator (in thickness mainly). It's my opinion that you want to find a radiator that is sure to be able to handle the extra heat, and then find a way to make it fit.
 

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Member
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648 Posts
Grassroots Motorsports magazine did a Spifire rotary swap series a few years ago. Their articles had lots of good information and details. For instance, they used a tailshaft housing from the pickup truck, which move the shifter forward some.

Might be worth doing some research on their website, grassrootsmotorsports.com, as they sell back issues.

By the way, it's FAST!

Jc
 

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Detritus Maximus
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2,870 Posts
Rob said:
Well, bits, its good to see both of us have gotten to rx7club.com. But the main reason for looking at a turbo over a nonturbo is availability and pricing....I havent seen a nonturbo for sale that i didnt think had blown seals for under $1800 i think...and thats just the engine...provided the seals are good on my 'find' i would only be spending $300 on the whole car, so i dont think getting stuff to fit would be too much of a prob...true the turbo is bigger, and i would need to upgrade the rearend...but i was planning on some kind of forced induction anyway if i got a nonturbo...so with the future in mind, the turbo just looks like the best bet...best upgradability...anyhow...i did ask this question on rx7club so it might be redudant...would it be possible to get a T-II rearend into the axel of a gt?(not including suspension)...like i said on the other forum, i should know this what with working in a drivetrain shop and all...but...we deal mainly with transmissions...
Thanks again you guys,
-Rob
Yeah, I've been on there for a couple of years and have a couple of non-turbo 2nd gens. It's a good site with plenty of info.
The Tll rear end will not fit a GT housing. There are two possible related choices, depending.....one is to fit the rear end out of a 1st gen RX7 GSLSE. Disc brakes, LSD, and it's a live axle, not IRS, but it will handle quite a bit of power. Or, do some research on the IRS set ups people have created using the Ford 9". There is one that almost bolts right in to a late 60's Mustang. A variation of this idea using the Tll pumpkin and halfshafts might be workable. The side to side dimensions may be up to you to decide, to an extent.

Since you are looking to do a turbo car, anyway, the supension mods may not matter much if you are willing to go with the GT fender flares. If you don't mind going that route, the width of suspension swap choices is not an issue.
 

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Opeler
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99 Posts
GSLSE rear and flares??

The rearend idea from the 1st gen sounds like a good idea...possibly one of the best Ive heard...Ill look up some info on rx7club on that. Yeah, I think I read the last article on the rospit as it were...interesting thing that was...anyhow, Im not sure why I would need fender flares...unless 15x8's will not fit under the stock fenders...thats what I plan on running eventually...for now I might try to redrill the 16x7's that are on the T-II...I think some 225's or so can take the power that Ill be putting down...at least to the extent I want them too (wheelspin is not always a bad thing...as long as its BOTH drive wheels)....oh and another thing about brakes, in the july '04 issue of EVO (69) there was a small article about Delphi's new dual rotor brake system http://www.delphi.com/news/solutions/monthly/ms24695-09012003 it looks really cool...though i dont think its in production yet...and it might never make it...Oh and for the cooling, would a steinmetz or Lenk front spoiler with maybe a custom fiberglass splitter help aid engine airflow...I have SOME experience with fiberglass, mostly on repairing kart side body panels....but a splitter is flat, so....but I was thinking about using the stock radiator...from eyeballing it, it looks to be about 3/2 or 2x the size of the stock radiator, so something will have to be done. I had also planned on using an electric fan, to free up some space in the engine bay. Anyhow, thanks for the feedback.
-Rob
 

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Opeler
Joined
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99 Posts
Well...today I took delivery on a 1990 turbo II rx-7. I hope to be able to start the swap soon with the removal of the 1.9. But first is there anything special I need to know about pulling the engine before I do? Also the trans/rear diff should be coming out too...so...anyhow, Ill be sure to update as things begin...thanks,
-Rob
 

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Registered
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6,344 Posts
Rob, a little advice, cause I'm there and doing it. Get the car on a secure, level parking spot with room for equipment all the way around. It's a real pain to try and put the car on 4 jackstands when it wants to roll down hill, or as your jacking one end and the other ends starts to tilt off the stands. Scary is a good word here. If you're gonna take out the whole drive train, drop the engine/tranny as a unit, it's easier to disassemble them outside the car, and more comfortable too. The torque tube, trailing arms, and rear-end can also come out as a unit, again easier to disassemble outside the car. Run a search on engine removal and you come up with the age old, out the top, out the bottom recommendations, pros and cons, so you can make your own decision which is right for you. HTH.
 

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Opeler
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99 Posts
Thanks for the help, Ron...Ill do that with the search...right now Im in the process of getting the T-II to run without having to push it off...just looks like a starter prob...but yeah Ill do some more posting when it all gets going. Thanks
-Rob
 

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Detritus Maximus
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2,870 Posts
The reason for the flares is that the GT is pretty narrow. With the power level you are going to decently sized tires plus a rearend out of a different car may require far more restructuring of the chassis to get it all to fit. Much easier to add flares to get the room for tires and wheels, gives you more options, too. Plus, if you wish to update the front suspension in some way, the same things apply. Not too much room within the stock body envelope, but there seem to be quite a bit outside of it......I think the equation would read: infinity - GT.

Hey Rob- any chance the Tll still has it's stock 16" wheels?
 

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Opeler
Joined
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99 Posts
Hmmm well I didnt really want to do flares...I think the gt looks better without them...but I was planning on doing a new front spoiler, so maybe I could do it all at once...

Oh and yeah, theres about a 100% chance it still has its 16x7s they look pretty nice, a little curb rash on the drivers rear one (thats where it was wrecked) but it also has the little 1/2 size donut with the same spoke design.
Anyhow, thanks
-Rob
 

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boomerang opeler
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5,636 Posts
sorry to disagree with you opelbits but if you go for wider front suspension then you get fowling probs with the rear edge of the wheel onto the footwell when you turn to full lock (it has a wider arc and so moves more )
i had this problem when i was fitting jag front sus on to my gt and had to move the cross member forward 2" to clear the footwell
 

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Senior Contributor
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903 Posts
A wider suspension won't necessarily cause more movement of the wheel during steering. It really comes down to certain parts of the suspension geometry, in particular the scrubb radius. A suspension with 0 scrubb radius will be unlikely to cause any problems where as a suspension with a large scrubb radius is likely to start hitting things.

-Travis
 

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Senior Contributor
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903 Posts
I should have mentined that to determine the scrub radius, imagine a line from the upper ball joint to the lower ball joint and then continuing down to the ground. The distance between where this imaginary line hits the ground and the center of the tires contact patch on the ground is the scrub radius. With 0 radius the wheel essientially spins in place. With a large radius, the wheel will travel in a large arc...

-Travis
 

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boomerang opeler
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5,636 Posts
travis i have yet to come across a 0 scrub rad sus on any thing ive had or worked on i know they are out there but just have not seen 1 (think you need double wishbones to get a true 0 rad
as i said when i went to a jag front end it hit the footwell so i had to move it forward
 

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Super Moderator
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13,875 Posts
IIRC, the Audi A4 is very close to being zero scrub...assuming standard wheels are retained.
 

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Senior Contributor
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903 Posts
RallyBob said:
IIRC, the Audi A4 is very close to being zero scrub...assuming standard wheels are retained.
Yes, Audi's 'virtual steer axis' provides little to no scrub radius. It's a very cool idea...

-Travis
 

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Senior Contributor
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903 Posts
baz said:
travis i have yet to come across a 0 scrub rad sus on any thing ive had or worked on i know they are out there but just have not seen 1 (think you need double wishbones to get a true 0 rad
as i said when i went to a jag front end it hit the footwell so i had to move it forward
Yes, it's uncommon to find zero in street vehicles. My point was that it is the scrub radius and not the track width that affects the 'arc' movement of the wheel. If the jag suspension had a larger arc, it was because of this, and not the width of the suspension.

Just another thing to keep in mind when adapting suspensions from other cars...

-Travis
 

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boomerang opeler
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5,636 Posts
travis i understand what you were trying to say about scrub rad but am not very clear of mind today (too much hop extract[beer] last night for newyear)
the problems i got were due to the diff between the wheels when in the standard positions
as i read it rob was talking about 15" wheels and a wider track
and with 15" and the standard tyres for the jag on i could not turn the wheels to any where near full lock this is what my befuddled brain was trying to say
the diff between the gt and jag SR is very little from memory its about 1/2"
 

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Opeler
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99 Posts
Yeah, Baz, I was thinking about maybe some 15x8s in the future, once I get the swap completed. Right now I might just have to go with the 16x7s that came on the '7...If I can swap the hubs and such. My plan is to use the T-II front brakes anyway, so perhaps...the only problem with using the wheels as I see it now is that they have 55 series tires on them so they might be too tall...Ive heard that a 50 series on a 15 or a 40 series on a 16 works well...but I guess the speedo might need to be thrown off a little for the sake of economy and expediancy...
-Rob
 

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Opeler
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16 Posts
wankle opel

I've done the opel gt, mazda marrage before. i used a 13B open port wankle engine with a weber and racing beat headers. in stead of mazda rear end i used the rear end out of a toyota like they use in locost and race cars legands.
 

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Opeler
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99 Posts
Hmm, Do you have any specs for the swap? I would be using the FI turbo motor, so it will be a little different, but any help you can offer is welcome. Thanks
-Rob
 
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