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Discussion Starter #1
So my car runs pretty good up to 3200rpm, then it starts breaking up really bad. It will get to 3800-4000, but it won't go any higher.

And it clicks sometimes when you turn the key. It always starts, but sometimes it will click a couple times before turning over.

While doing some searching here I found a thread from the PO.



The Pertronix is still running through the Bosch coil and the resistor wire is still hooked up. So is it possible I am running out of fire at 3200?

It doesn't stall after 100 yards like he was saying. It has a new ground strap from the frame to the engine. It does still click and it won't rev.

Should I get a Flame Thrower coil and see if it fixes it?
 

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Über Genius
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The Pertronix requires 12V
Run 12v from the ignition to the red wire on the Pertronix and leave the resistor wire hooked up to the coil.
 

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Opel Key Master
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Or get a coil that doesn’t require a ballast resistor like a Standard UC15, and run 12v to it to clean up the wiring. But that doesn’t sound like the problem. Check your total advance, it doesn’t sound like your mechanical advance is working maybe. I recently had a GT that was just a dog at getting up to RPM, was the mechanical advance locked up. Could be not enough advance, and you need some vacuum advance.
On the clicking to start, does it have a new GTS high torque starter? If so, you may need a relay. These starters have proven to not be the most reliable. Could be your ignition switch going. And one last thing, check your ground from engine to body/chassis
 

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Über Genius
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It could also be that the pick up sensor in the pertronix needs to be closer to the magnet.
 

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Über Genius
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Could also happen if the condenser wasn't removed when the pertronix was installed.
 

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Senior Contributor
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I'm taking a Guessing Here,, I would check the Distributor vacuum advance ( simple stuff first)
Make sure the plates are free to move, maybe hanging up since the pertronix was installed on the plate.
Use a Vacuum Bleeding tool, see if the advance plates are Operating.

The starter clicks, You should be using a 12V Pilot relay to Operate Starter Motor.
Mount Relay near starter, to bring in full 12 volts to activate Solenoid... Battery fully charged 12.7 V
This is a common Method to save Ignition Switch , that's under load while Cranking Engine
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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So which engine is this? The new 2.2L?

Is the click when trying to start from under the hood? If so then it sounds like the solenoid is not making internal contact inside the starter to make the contactor close the circuit to the starter winding. Could be burned spots or dirt on the contactor, or the solenoid hanging up, or resistance built up in the ignition switch or the connections.

Your ignition hookup as described is not clear. Coil and Pertronix running through the resistor wire, or just the coil? More info = better help. Use a voltmeter to measure your voltage at the battery when idling and also when revved to 2000 rpm. Let's make sure you electrical sytem is up to snuff 1st.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mark, this is the original 1.9, 2.2 isn't anywhere near done. Finally got the T5 installed and wanted to drive it before the winter engine swap.

428213


The Pertronix and the fuel pump are both wired to the coil. You can't see it in the picture, but the resistor wire is there too. My understanding is that the resistor wire will keep the coil at 7v. So won't anything getting power from the coil also be receiving 7v?

I'll check the advance with a Mityvac.

I have a new permanent magnet starter, but I was waiting for the engine swap before installing it. I guess there is new time like the present. Haha Should I install a relay for the new starter?

Thanks, fellas.
 

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Ok, Here what I see... Just trying to help, in the simple way.
If your using the stock resistor wire, it should be used for the Ignition Coil Only... Glad you posted photo's
and the other wire goes to the starter to give coil full 12Volt while cranking only.

The fuel Pump.. I think most of us run off the Horn Circuit or run a separate fused feed wire. Not on the resistor coil wire

If the resitor wire is being used than the coil ohm should be 0 or .07 Ohms
If you run a new 12Volt switched wire than you need to Get a New Coil that is 3 Ohms

Others can Correct me if am wrong. but that my Honest opinion
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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As said by many, only the coil connects to the resistor wire. There is a 'resistor wire bypass' in the starter solenoid (to apply 12v direct to the coil + when cranking) but that can be checked later. With all stuff that fed through the resistor wire, things will be well below 7 volts; everything is crapping out LOL!

A couple of 'improvements' on info:
  • Resistor wire end to end should be 1.8 ohms cold, + or - (Got this number off of a schematic IIRC.)
  • Vacuum advance will not be in play when you are near or at WOT. Good to measure it though and make sure it is working properly.
Have you checked the (initial) ignition timing at low idle and with the vacuum advance hose disconnected? What year is this?
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ok, I stand corrected. The Pertronix was wired directly into the fuse block.

I have now also wired to fuel pump into the fuse block.

It's raining and none of the family is home, so I'm gonna go run around and see if I can find a 3ohm Flame Thrower coil.

The mechanic advance seems fine and the vacuum advance moves with the Mityvac.

I'm going to dig out my timing light when I get back home. Make sure the initial is set to 0.

It's a 69, Mark.
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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FWIW, a 1.5 ohm coil plus the resistor wire is not going to behave to any significant differently degree vs a 3 ohm coil. Total resistance is about the same so coil current levels, which set the spark energy, are not much different at all. And the 1.5 ohm coil, when used with the starting bypass to apply 12v directly to the coil +, will actually produce a hotter spark when cranking for initial fire-up. The 3 ohm coil is more just a wiring convenience.
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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I asked the year, assuming the original distributor is in there, to see what the initial timing should be. Someone has posted the distributor info for all the years to show the vacuum advance and retard info.

When you say 'set to zero' for the initial timing, do you mean line up the BB on the flywheel to the pointer?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Everything is powered by 12v sources. Picked up a uc15 from O'Reilly's.

Timing is set to the BB.

Runs better, but I seems to have moved the popcorn popping to 4300 rpm. It runs great till then. If I baby the throttle I can get it to about 4600.

I did find a vacuum leak at the front of the intake. I had to really dose it with carb cleaner and the engine would start to stall.
 

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Über Genius
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Baby the throttle and get it to 4600?

Your problem is fuel delivery. Or something carb related.

Edit... Possibly weak valve springs.
 

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My original thought was the Pertronix starting to fail because the earlier ones are sensitive to the ignition being on or something like that. Just a guess.

Easy enough to toss on the original coil, points, condenser etc. a new cap, rotor, wires, while you’re at it. That’ll take care of that side of the mystery.

At least our engines are easy enough to troubleshoot. If it’s not on the spark side it’s usually fuel related.
Vacuum leaks usually show up at idle & just off idle, check the fuel pressure before the carburetor, the main jet to see if it’s got debris, then the full power valve diaphragm if it’s a downdraft. All can be done without removing the carburetor.
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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John, as far as the starter clicking, yes a common thing to do is to install a relay for the starter solenoid current. I've never had big issues without the relay, but the connections and wiring and switch contacts are getting old and corroded so such a relay helps work around those issues.

If you put in the relay now, and the present starter behaved well, then the issue is in the wiring, connections, or ignition switch. But that will not solve the issue if the present starter's solenoid is having problems, however, so then that would need to be diassembled and fixed, or the new starter put on.
 

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There is a "Sock" at the gas tank outlet which could be plugged with crap and restricting fuel flow at higher rpm's.
There is a thread somewhere on here that addresses how to remove it.
That is a good one! I would also add to verify carb floats are adjusted to spec if not already done.
 
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