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After replacing the headlight wiring harness, I am needing to seal the area where the harness goes through the firewall at the fuse box. I dug out this dried out Play Doe looking stuff to remove the old and install the new harness. What have any of you done to replace this stuff and make it look better than what was there. It really looked like a three year old stuffed Play Doe there.
 

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After replacing the headlight wiring harness, I am needing to seal the area where the harness goes through the firewall at the fuse box. I dug out this dried out Play Doe looking stuff to remove the old and install the new harness. What have any of you done to replace this stuff and make it look better than what was there. It really looked like a three year old stuffed Play Doe there.
Can you paint it with "rubber in a can" from NAPA? I saw some while in NAPA today. Small throw away brush. The only other thing I can think of is Plumbers putty. I'd seal the outside as well as the inside. HTH, Jarrell
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Clearly it was a design mistake by Opel that was remedied with the last minute application of auto putty. The wire bundle and hole are directly below a drip point where the water from the cowl turns the corner to supposedly flow down the sides of the hood opening. But they didn't form the metal right for that to happen and instead the water can drip out onto the top of the fuse box before it gets to the sides.

Yeah, I removed the "turd" on one car and soon was able to enjoy feeling water trickling through the fuse box and onto my leg every time I drove in the rain.

I fed my aftermarket fuse box wires into the front of that footwell/fuse box area and plugged/taped off the hole.

:veryhappy
 

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I threaded the headlight and other wires through a rubber grommet. Can't remember the size. Never had a problem with water entering that way. The "goop" was to stop the water flow to the fuse box, it rerouted the water, but it did not route it out of the car's interior. I have a 16 circuit modern fuse box in a different location, so there are no problems. You might give the rubber grommet a try, then put (spray) a rubber substance over the wires and the grommet.

Bob
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Seems to me that a feed-through bushing might be called for as an improvement to the stock ball of snot.

See if something here might fit (still will need a small bit of sealant).

https://www.cableorganizer.com/grommets/
After removing the snot ball, there was a rubber grommet in pretty good shape. It’s still there but I can see how water can get in there...
 

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Opel Intern
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I used a grommet and a super flexible silicone (RTV, etc).

The issue with using only a grommet is that water can still wick its way in to the car between the wires. In fact, the narrow spaces between the wires are better at wicking water than larger holes.

So, get some silicone and goober it all over and between the wires like a 3 year old. Leave a grommet in place to keep the sheet metal from cutting the wires with the sheet metal.
 

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I used a grommet and a super flexible silicone (RTV, etc).

The issue with using only a grommet is that water can still wick its way in to the car between the wires. In fact, the narrow spaces between the wires are better at wicking water than larger holes.

So, get some silicone and goober it all over and between the wires like a 3 year old. Leave a grommet in place to keep the sheet metal from cutting the wires with the sheet metal.
What he said:yup: Jarrell
 

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I used liquid nails

I went to Home Depot and bought a tube of Liquid Nails....kinda like silicone sealer but hardens into something like that snot I took out of the old car....nasty stuff...this stuff really sticks so no water can get in.....
 

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I find it's best to use original OEM materials.

If not or not available, the next closest thing that mimics it.

I this case you're in luck because they still make the ingredients and the formula is well known.

It's 2 parts dog sh!t to 1 part cheese whiz, but you gotta leave the jar open for a day in the sun first. Apply with an old sock and leave a hair dryer pointed at it for an hour or two.

Good as new.
 

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I find it's best to use original OEM materials.

If not or not available, the next closest thing that mimics it.

I this case you're in luck because they still make the ingredients and the formula is well known.

It's 2 parts dog sh!t to 1 part cheese whiz, but you gotta leave the jar open for a day in the sun first. Apply with an old sock and leave a hair dryer pointed at it for an hour or two.

Good as new.
Way to go Matt, how's it smell with the heat on?:lmao: Jarrell
 

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3M Strip Caulk pretty much mirrors what the factory used. And if there is one thing we know, our fuse panel and interiors never have had reported issues of that factory caulk failing, unlike some other cars such as the early Rabbits and GTI's and Rabbit Pickups that shorted out from water intrusion. Not to mention our homes outside electrical service box main power wire to the box are usually sealed with this caulk....

I would stick with the OEM look and OEM reliability.

Link: https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Strip-Calk/?N=5002385+3293194020&rt=rud

Eastwood carries it too.
 

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This is what I used and it is identical to the original Dog Crap that was on there.
 

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Opeler
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If you purchase 3M™ Strip-Calk, store it in a refrigerator, or it will eventually melt into a large sealant mess.
I wrap it in aluminum foil or plastic bag to keep out the refrigerator moisture.
 

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Wiring harness firewall pass through.

I would get a rubber grommet from your local junk yard or check with local body shops they may have saved some damaged wiring harnesses they replaced.
 
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