[Guest]

Hello All,
Wonderful Site! I am Currently in the Market for and searching different designs of body panel add ons. Such as Front air dams, skirts ,flairs, etc. I am Well aware of What OGTS offers, They are nice looking but not my cup. Looking for width of testarossa style but without all the door designs. Also Hand layed fiberglass vs. fiberglass which is best? The Front of My 70 GT was crunched due to previous owner not maintaining brakes and the best cover up job I unfortunately discovered too late. Therefore I was thinking of a two piece replica fiberglass front end. But are they so flimsy they will crack in hard cornering? All I have found concerning Lenk Tuning and some custom shops seems to be either Swedish or German and being the simpleton I am Do NOT know either Language, and the translators tell me not much more. Basicly Just looking for some good links or info on these subjects I appreciate your time and again superb web site!

 

[Guest]

I Give Up

well i gave up on the fiberglass, I have decided to learn the manipulation of metal. I have two 4x8 sheets of 22 guage cold rolled ordered.
Has anyone else worked with this stuff before?
I am building a English Wheel to (massage) the curves matching them of course to templates i have made of a good body off of my 72. Then welding in the fenders per fender templates i have made.
(slightly modified of course 3" wider in front and back)
Does this sound right?. I have never done anything like this before. Where are the best areas to add pieces on to these cars? should i take the clip off clear to the door pillars or should i go back just to where metel is good ?
Basicaly from Half way of front fenders all the way up front on sides and top part of nose panel is junk (really stressed out metal).I can see how these vehicles metal parts were folded at joins and then spot welded together. i will try to duplicate this method, I believe.
Also what setting for mig seems to work the best so as not to stretch the metal while welding?I am sure i will just have to test areas but thought it couldn´t hurt to ask. Thanks a lot for any and all replies.
Clay

 

[Guest]

Congrats on your attempt to repair the body the *correct* way, with sheet metal. I have one word of warning however regarding the use of an English Wheel. Patience! It is not something that will be mastered overnight, some people spend a lifetime learning to use one properly. I have tried and failed miserably! You just need to take it slowly from what I understand, I tried using one and just ended up with a pile of bent metal from rushing it.

For your mig settings, you will have to experiment. Every mig is different, different voltages will affect the heat range, etc. Try to use the minimal voltage while still getting a solid weld. Tack pieces in place first, let it cool, then weld in small steps to avoid warpage. I keep a wet rag around to cool the surrounding areas when welding sheet metal.

I´d also recommend you get a panel beater´s shot bag and some mallets to help form tighter curvatures and shapes. It´s amazing what you can make from sheetmetal this way. I made this switch console yesterday for my racecar from a single piece of sheetmetal. Took about 1/2 hour, folded it, rolled the edges, welded them, and ground it smooth. No sharp edges to cut myself on now.

Bob

 

[Guest]

Hat´s off to RallyBob!

Hey thanks RallyBob that was exactly the info i was looking for.
I read in another post that you prefer lead shot to sand and I understand why after reading what you said.
I have used hammers before and can honestly say I suck at them. Never used a shot bag though, just a metal form held on the opposing side. I will implement the shotbag into my trials and see what comes of it.
I read other post´s for the English Wheel where a guy named Wray used a hammer and shot bag to get the form and then used the English Wheel fitted with hard rubber and plastic wheels to finish. This procedure seemed to create a finished product that looked like it had been stamped.I t was unbelievable.
Hopefully with DETERMINATION and borrowed skill I can reproduce the same procedure.What have I got to lose?And by the way that is one Hell of a nice looking control panel.
I have no problem with taking things slow , i try to put a lot of thought and research into everything i do to these cars. Mainly because someone has already been there and done that.
Where do you like to get your equipment ?any supplier in particular?

 

[Guest]

Try Covell Specialty Fabrication, Fournier Enterprises, US Industrial Tool and Supply, Eastwood Company. I´ve bought stuff from all of them, all have had excellent service.

 

[Guest]

Thanks!

 

[Guest]

One more place I just remembered. Try Irvan-Smith Inc.

Bob

 

[Guest]

Ouch!!

Well I decided not to go with the 22 guage at $75.00 a sheet (it didn´t make the trip) ;( . I have thought about using 18 guage(cold rolled), it is a hell of a lot cheaper . Does anyone see a problem there? I thought it might also be better for rust preventative reasons.Also has anyone here attempted acid etching and lead filling on opels? (small areas of course)
Thanks,Clay

 

[Guest]

Time to find a new supplier. I get cold rolled steel sheet metal locally for $36 for a 4 x 8 of 22 gauge, and $42 for 18 gauge. $75 should buy you aluminum!

 

[Guest]

Supply and Demand

You´re right, unfortunately not a lot of suppliers close to Wyoming.I can get a 4x8 sheet of 18 guage for $37 , (go figure) just because they already have some of that at their main yard. They said the 22 guage was special order and the majority of the cost was freight. It is probably coming from the East anyway.I did take your advice and checked the few online suppliers I could find but their prices were a little higher getting it to me and in smaller pieces (3x4).
Thanks though, Even though the cost of getting stuff here costs more at least I don´t pay state tax, and I get rocky mountain oysters really cheap!(yuck!)

Thanks, Clay