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Über Genius
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Can you turn the engine by hand?
 

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Good job with the pics. I’m able to see the problem areas much better. The front battery tray area is all still in tact and that’s a good sign. I’m seeing more concerts with the rear and underside, is difficult to tell where your pics are but right above the jacking points is questionable in the rust department. It looks deep in some areas. 3k is optimistic, unfortunately does look like it suffered some bad attempts at body repair perhaps more than I thought. The more forthcoming you are, as you have been, the better chance you have of getting the amount you put it up for. Try asking for 2k and see what happens?
 

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UngerDog
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I see minimal rust. The sheet metal under the battery tray and in front of the radiator, AKA belly pan has rusted through in a couple spots. The amount of rust there that I can see is a lot less than most original GTs. I think there's some minor rust between the rear passenger wheel and the jack point. The repair to the rear passenger side marker isn't the best, but that can be corrected and shouldn't be too much of a concern to a buyer. I'm not seeing any concerns under the car. The dash is cracked, but is repairable.

As far as the "car doesn't crank", here's what I would do...loosen the alternator so that the fan belt moves freely or remove. Or, don't bother with loosening the alternator, just cut off the fan belt with a knife. Then check the radiator fan to see if it moves. Cars that have been sitting for a long time can have corrosion build up inside the water pump behind the fan and cause a no crank issue. If the fan can't be turned by hand, you've probably found the problem. Try connecting a battery and try to crank the engine over by the key to confirm. If it does crank, you have found the problem and made the car worth more. Then, remove the cover over the carburetor and add a little gas or starting fluid to the carb and try to get it to start. If it does, you made the car worth even way more. You just want it to fire up, not to idle for very long. That's what I would do and have done to a GT that was sitting in an orchard for 30 years with rats living in it.

Were you able to make any headway with DMV and the title issue?
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I see minimal rust. The sheet metal under the battery tray and in front of the radiator, AKA belly pan has rusted through in a couple spots. The amount of rust there that I can see is a lot less than most original GTs. I think there's some minor rust between the rear passenger wheel and the jack point. The repair to the rear passenger side marker isn't the best, but that can be corrected and shouldn't be too much of a concern to a buyer. I'm not seeing any concerns under the car. The dash is cracked, but is repairable.

As far as the "car doesn't crank", here's what I would do...loosen the alternator so that the fan belt moves freely or remove. Or, don't bother with loosening the alternator, just cut off the fan belt with a knife. Then check the radiator fan to see if it moves. Cars that have been sitting for a long time can have corrosion build up inside the water pump behind the fan and cause a no crank issue. If the fan can't be turned by hand, you've probably found the problem. Try connecting a battery and try to crank the engine over by the key to confirm. If it does crank, you have found the problem and made the car worth more. Then, remove the cover over the carburetor and add a little gas or starting fluid to the carb and try to get it to start. If it does, you made the car worth even way more. You just want it to fire up, not to idle for very long. That's what I would do and have done to a GT that was sitting in an orchard for 30 years with rats living in it.

Were you able to make any headway with DMV and the title issue?
Thank you for the tip. I definitely have lots of googling to do now. Lol. Perhaps we can do a Zoom instructional tutorial? 😆 just kidding. I'll mention this to my uncle and see if he can help me do this to see if it will fire up.

I appreciate you following up on the title issue but I plan on calling the DMV tomorrow. I've been recruited for reno work so I'm working on scraping off popcorn from the ceiling and I usually have a laundry list of tasks that get added to my list daily so I gotta juggle my priorities.

Thanks so much for all your help! I'll try to get back to you asap.
 

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Über Genius
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Thank you for the tip. I definitely have lots of googling to do now. Lol. Perhaps we can do a Zoom instructional tutorial? 😆 just kidding. I'll mention this to my uncle and see if he can help me do this to see if it will fire up.

I appreciate you following up on the title issue but I plan on calling the DMV tomorrow. I've been recruited for reno work so I'm working on scraping off popcorn from the ceiling and I usually have a laundry list of tasks that get added to my list daily so I gotta juggle my priorities.

Thanks so much for all your help! I'll try to get back to you asap.
Do you have a key for the ignition?
 

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Detroit,where my home was
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..... Try connecting a battery and try to crank the engine over by the key to confirm.....
Just my 2 cents, take out the spark plugs put some lubricant down the spark plug hole and let it sit overnight. Then use a 19 mm socket and try to turn the crank with the bolt on the crank pulley. If that goes well then put the spark plugs back in, hookup a battery and crank the engine over by the key...
 

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Great pics! Whatever route you go in selling the GT, include all of them in your ad. Heck, link to this forum post. The buyer would appreciate the openess and honesty you've shown here!

Looks like the original Solex carb, so as Unger and 2Fast have suggested, oil the cylinders, bar the engine over by hand without the spark plugs attached (somebody handy and knowledgable in engines would be a real plus to assist you here using the above posts as guidance), turn the engine over by hand to ensure the motor pistons are not frozen or rusted in place. Reattach spark plugs and as suggested above, just attempt a firing of the engine to see if it runs will suffice.

Note: Be sure the engine has oil in it, as well as the transmission and antifreeze in the radiator!

All of us have seen worse off GT's sold on Craigs or Ebay then what we see here. We've even watched a fellow member on this site buy a Gullwing-door custom GT build sold by a well known Opel Vendor with the post-sale aftermath being a car with more irreparable issues with those doors then he was led to believe. The undercarriage looks very good (looks like this GT was originally red or firethorn orange when it left the factory judging by the exposed paint underneath). The passenger rear quarter work, as well as the rear tail and trim strip area filled in with putty are the only major quibbling points that I can see from these pics.

Good GT's anymore are getting hard to find. Somebody in the market for a GT to take down to the shell and rebuild would have a decent start with a car like this.

I'll take a stab and say $2500 to $3000.
 

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Discussion Starter #48
Ugh 😔...obtaining a title is going to be a long process. Just spoke to the kindest DMV worker that told me I needed to fill out the following docs DMV Reg 343, DMV 227, DMV 256, DMV Reg 5, DMV Reg 31 and provide a copy of the certified death certificate to them. She anticipates it'll take 2 months or more for them to reissue a title.

Gents, how much would it cost to restore this baby and how much would it cost to maintain in after its restored? Keeping my options open. LOL If I can't get more than 1k for the car, I don't know that I'd want to sell it.

Thoughts?
 

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Opeler
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Ugh 😔...obtaining a title is going to be a long process. Just spoke to the kindest DMV worker that told me I needed to fill out the following docs DMV Reg 343, DMV 227, DMV 256, DMV Reg 5, DMV Reg 31 and provide a copy of the certified death certificate to them. She anticipates it'll take 2 months or more for them to reissue a title.

Gents, how much would it cost to restore this baby and how much would it cost to maintain in after its restored? Keeping my options open. LOL If I can't get more than 1k for the car, I don't know that I'd want to sell it.

Thoughts?
The sky is the limit on how much it could cost to restore it, depending on what level of restoration is chosen and who is doing the work. If you do a lot yourself, the cost stays down considerable, but some costs are unavoidable, because parts cost what they cost.

Selling it without a title will be a detriment, at least in my opinion, so I think it’s worth getting it.

It really comes down to if you want to carry the torch for this project for your father. Is it (having an old car) something you’re interested in?
 

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Detritus Maximus
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The 'restore' means many things...full top to bottom 'as new' restoration...ask Keith (opelspyder). $20-30K plus? A decent paintjob and get running reliably? $10k plus? A slow effort to make it a presentable tinkering project? Don't know till you decide to quit spending. It really comes down to how much work you pay other people to do and how many Opel people are around, they tend to be a helpful lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #51
The sky is the limit on how much it could cost to restore it, depending on what level of restoration is chosen and who is doing the work. If you do a lot yourself, the cost stays down considerable, but some costs are unavoidable, because parts cost what they cost.

Selling it without a title will be a detriment, at least in my opinion, so I think it’s worth getting it.

It really comes down to if you want to carry the torch for this project for your father. Is it (having an old car) something you’re interested in?
Well, I'd love to have a "classic" car but unfortunately I don't even live in the same state where the car is being stored. As much as I'd love to keep the car and work on it myself, I highly doubt that would be anytime in the near future so the thought of leaving her sitting in the garage for another 15-20 years doesn't appeal to be either.

I think I'll just have to continue on the path of selling her and work on obtaining the title. Thank you for your response.
 

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Stay the course with the DMV if it’s an option the title issue could possibly be something you and the buyer can work on together if you decide to continue selling it, you’ll get more for the car. Just be forthcoming as mentioned above and let the buyer know where you are in the process. It is a reasonable car to bring back there are some deep rust spots near the repairs in your pictures that to me look more than just surface rust. Child’s play compared to some of the restorations I see being done. Keeping in mind that I live in Southern California and don’t see severe rust issues so I may be a little more critical than others.

I keep mine because it’s fun to drive and recently it strikes up a conversation or compliment, sometimes multiple just about every time I’m out in it. I get to meet a lot of nice people that I wouldn’t have met. I’ve put probably well over 20k in mine over the 30 years I’ve owned it. It’s probably worth maybe 6-8k. I was told early on that a car really isn’t a good investment. When you stop to think about it that’s really no a lot of money. It looked similar to yours when I bought it.

Fully restored we see them average anywhere from $10-35k I’d say that the average is closer to the lower end. If you have time look over the website Opelgtsource.com you can browse through just about everything you would need for a full restoration. They made it easier for us Opel owners, and to put in a plug for them they are outstanding customer service wise.

If you can pursue the title, it’s really just a lot of footwork you’ll be able to sell it for what the guys say above.
Without the title it may just turn into a parts car at half of the value, this is just my opinion and I could be wrong that selling it without the title in the neighborhood of 1k is pretty realistic. See what the others say. HTH
 

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Detritus Maximus
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Getting a genuine title thru the dmv is the best choice, but there are other ways. There are out of state title services that can do a paper shuffle thru a bill of sale state to get you or a potential buyer a title. So for a car with clean history and no title, that is an option, but you have to find a buyer that will do that (if you are not inclined to) and that means a lower sale price for them to take on the risk/hassle/cost. If you do it, then you can sell the car with a title, probably with no loss in value, but there is a few hundred dollars cost.
The car looks way to good to simply part out for lack of a title.
 

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UngerDog
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Ugh 😔...obtaining a title is going to be a long process. Just spoke to the kindest DMV worker that told me I needed to fill out the following docs DMV Reg 343, DMV 227, DMV 256, DMV Reg 5, DMV Reg 31 and provide a copy of the certified death certificate to them. She anticipates it'll take 2 months or more for them to reissue a title.
I once turned down a sale for an Opel GT because the guy didn't have the title, and he got it from a neighbor (that moved away) that he did some work for. He started yelling at me over the phone that I didn't know what I was talking about (how getting a title might be difficult). California DMV sucks. And, over the last five years my renewal fees have doubled. So, screw you CA DMV, I own 3 GTs that are now on Non-Op status, and you don't get any money from me, except for my other 5 cars. I know a lot of people that have moved from CA to NV and beyond. I'm thinking about it.

If your primary address is in Nevada, maybe you might have a quicker and easier route with Nevada DMV.

I looked at the engine photo a little more. It looks like the spark plug wires are correctly hooked up (firing order is 1-3-4-2). It looks like your dad or someone added a spring to the rear drivers side of the engine to the throttle linkage. It looks like someone was poking around the wires of the harness behind the washer reservoir. In a couple other photos, I see the automatic transmission line incorrectly routed, and someone had was working on the headlight wires.

Trying to get past the radiator fan and shroud to put a socket on the crank bolt is very difficult. I'm not sure you can without at least moving the shroud back towards the engine. However, if the water pump is seized, which happens to cars that sit for years upon years, then just cut the fan belt or loosen the alternator nut to loosen the fan belt, and see if you can move or not move the fan. If the fan doesn't move you know the water pump is seized and needs to be replaced. It will most likely need replacing anyway. But, you can take the next step without replacing the water pump and see if the engine will crank. I can see a key in the ignition, and if you remove the spark plugs, squirt some oil (regular oil, ATF, Marvel Mystery oil-about 1 tbsp) into the each spark plug hole (a good idea, plus letting it sit over night is a good tip), hook up a good battery, turn the key, you may just be surprised. If the engine does crank, you can put the spark plugs back in, disconnect the fuel hose going into the carburetor (because the old gas in the tank is probably no good), direct that disconnected hose into a suitable can or bottle (because it will probably spit old gas out if the car starts), take off the carb cover to check for a mouse nest (clean up if necessary), squirt some gas or starting fluid into the carburetor, turn the key and see if it fires up. If it does go have a celebratory beer!
 

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Discussion Starter #55
Omg... so many words I'm clueless about. Lol 😆 Do you have a YouTube tutorial video? If not, have you considered making one? Hahaha. I'm going to have to ask my uncle if he can help me with this after the home reno. Cause it'll probably take my quite some time on YouTube trying to figure it all out. I appreciate the suggestions and help though... just wish I knew more about cars to actually try doing it myself.
 

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Omg!! You guys are the best!! 💛 I love pictures! Ok... when I have some free time I'll take a look and see if I can figure out how to do those things you suggested without injuring myself. Lol
 

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And be mindful of the headlight wiring in the area of the rotating headlight buckets. It's a fair bet to say they have not been replaced. What happens is after several decades of turning, the wire insulation crumbles apart, exposing the copper wires inside the sheathing. When the high and low beam copper wire strands touch each other.......instant short circuit with no breaker to trip. This is an extreme fire hazard that is fairly well known with GT owners on this forum; not so much, anywhere else.

Best not to fiddle and play with the buckets up and down lever when this car is running. And make it clear to the next owner that those wire runs have to be inspected and replaced before considering driving anywhere down the road.

Great advice from Ungermm!!
 

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UngerDog
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I was thinking that there has to be an Opel enthusiast from the LA area that would be willing to help. And, after seeing what Elana Scherr has done with her Opel GT and escaping hospitalization, and since she isn't too far away from the Carson/Torrance area, maybe she and Tom would be interested in helping another Opeler and writing about or doing a fun video about starting a GT that hasn't been started in ~30 years. Maybe someone here knows how to contact her. I know it's a longshot, but she goes by Challengeher, and it would be a challenge for her.
 
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