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The Young One
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys so I have been surfing eBay and found this delta solid lifter cam. As some of you guys know I got a big valve head. My car is a 1969 so it has solid lifters. The price doesn’t seem that bad but I don’t know If I should get it for the big valve head. I might put the head eventually on my car and my car has a Weber 32/36 and headers and 2 in exhaust. I also have a Weber 40 side draft that I might put on my car.

If anyone else has a cam for a good price let me know.

Also would the lift(.255) and the duration( 215 DEGREES AT .050) be too much?

Thanks Sam
 

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The photos are terrible .... the cam bearing journals look to be in worn. I would pass on this because of the cost to install and have a failure.
We have a good camshaft person here in GA that can regrind a camshaft for you around the same price but you would have add shipping cost .
OGTS has new camshafts and reground lifters or you can have your lifter reground ($4.00 each x8).
HTH
 

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That is a used, stock 3-bearing solid lifter cam. The spec as I understand is just slightly "better" than the '71 and later 4-bearing hydraulic lifter cam, but only because the solid lifter profile has faster ramps.

If your head is a 3 bearing version (and just because your car is a '69 doesn't mean the head is also a '69), then this cam will work.

But if your head is a 4-bearing version, then you MUST use a 4-bearing cam, as the un-used bearing journal won't have a cam bearing in it, and you will have NO oil pressure (unless you remove and reinstall the bearing shell with the oil hole rotated away so the head oil galley is blocked).

So, first thing is to determine what head you have.

HTH
 
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The Young One
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
That is a used, stock 3-bearing solid lifter cam. The spec as I understand is just slightly "better" than the '71 and later 4-bearing hydraulic lifter cam, but only because the solid lifter profile has faster ramps.

If your head is a 3 bearing version (and just because your car is a '69 doesn't mean the head is also a '69), then this cam will work.

But if your head is a 4-bearing version, then you MUST use a 4-bearing cam, as the un-used bearing journal won't have a cam bearing in it, and you will have NO oil pressure (unless you remove and reinstall the bearing shell with the oil hole rotated away so the head oil galley is blocked).

So, first thing is to determine what head you have.

HTH
The big valve head is a 1970 so I am pretty sure it is a 3 bearing head. I haven’t looked to officially check but I know it is a 1970 head.
 

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Unless your budget is really tight, a cam is something I would not buy used. And I'm the type of guy who tries to get everything used. If you knew the previous owner and it's history, maybe... but even then. You don't know if it was properly broken in or ever saw low oil conditions. Cams do fail. And as pointed out, although the pics are low quality it does not look in good condition.
 

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The Young One
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Unless your budget is really tight, a cam is something I would not buy used. And I'm the type of guy who tries to get everything used. If you knew the previous owner and it's history, maybe... but even then. You don't know if it was properly broken in or ever saw low oil conditions. Cams do fail. And as pointed out, although the pics are low quality it does not look in good condition.
I will probably wait because i don’t really need a cam. I thought it was a good deal. I did think it looked kind of weird from the pictures.
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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I will probably wait because i don’t really need a cam. I thought it was a good deal. I did think it looked kind of weird from the pictures.
Good outcome.. this is a total 'pig in a poke'. I'd never buy a cam that I could not examine directly; each lobe needs to be viewed from multiple angles in good light to catch any flat or developing flat spots. Really hard to say, but #8 lobe looks like it is pretty worn down.. as in failing... but again, can't see it well enough.
 

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The big valve head is a 1970 so I am pretty sure it is a 3 bearing head. I haven’t looked to officially check but I know it is a 1970 head.
Just to be clear, a head made in 1970 (with a "70" casting mark) isn't necessarily actually a "1970" head, in as much as it would be expected to be a 3-bearing version. Sometime in mid-1970 Opel changed the manufacture of CIH heads to the 4-bearing version (hydraulic lifters for the North Amercian market, solid lifters for the European market), so that model-year 1971 Opels had that head. My '71 Opel GT was assembled at Bochum in Oct '70, and came with 4-bearing head that had a 1970 casting mark.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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As Keith implied, 1970 was a "crossover" year for GT's and a number of parts were often mixed and matched from what are considered early and late model GT's. Basically, some leftover parts from early models were used up on '70's. Engines, front suspension bushings, and other parts.
 

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Opeler
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Good outcome.. this is a total 'pig in a poke'. I'd never buy a cam that I could not examine directly; each lobe needs to be viewed from multiple angles in good light to catch any flat or developing flat spots. Really hard to say, but #8 lobe looks like it is pretty worn down.. as in failing... but again, can't see it well enough
thats my listing on ebay
i know the photo is not the best but there is nothing wrong with #8 lobe or any of the other lobes or bearings . thats why the title and description says "GOOD USED". i closely examined and measured the lobes and bearings before i listed it and would not have listed it if it was not a good usable cam!
the water has been poisoned!
thanks a lot
 

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Opel Rallier since 1977
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As for the ad itself: The cam journal comment above seems quite valid from the pix. The #8 lobe comment was clearly stated as an interpretation of a poor pix, not as a fact. No one can guess at any measurement results as they were never listed.

As for buying used cams: Expect people to be careful and skeptical on used cams. Cams are very difficult when it comes to spotting critical wear.... just one very small flat spot near one edge at the top of the lobe means the hardened surface is worn/wearing through. Rapid wear can then follow, that chews on the lifter base, with fine metal particles spewed throughout the engine.... so there's a lot more risk involved than just the price of the part, and I suspect that the OP is not aware of these matters. I'll personally not chose to put an unknown seller's experience in spotting critical details above my own, and expect nothing more from any 50+ year old used cam with unknown history than as a possible core for regrinding.

As for the sales process: Sadly, things get sold on eBay or CL or anywhere as 'good used' that are not, for whatever reasons.... that is the 'poisoning of the well'. Any skepticism is pretty normal and existed long before this ad came along.
 

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Opeler
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As for the ad itself: The cam journal comment above seems quite valid from the pix. The #8 lobe comment was clearly stated as an interpretation of a poor pix, not as a fact. No one can guess at any measurement results as they were never listed.

As for buying used cams: Expect people to be careful and skeptical on used cams. Cams are very difficult when it comes to spotting critical wear.... just one very small flat spot near one edge at the top of the lobe means the hardened surface is worn/wearing through. Rapid wear can then follow, that chews on the lifter base, with fine metal particles spewed throughout the engine.... so there's a lot more risk involved than just the price of the part, and I suspect that the OP is not aware of these matters. I'll personally not chose to put an unknown seller's experience in spotting critical details above my own, and expect nothing more from any 50+ year old used cam with unknown history than as a possible core for regrinding.

As for the sales process: Sadly, things get sold on eBay or CL or anywhere as 'good used' that are not, for whatever reasons.... that is the 'poisoning of the well'. Any skepticism is pretty normal and existed long before this ad came along.
Well a buyer on ebay can always file a "item not as described" claim if it is not a good used cam. are you aware of that? ebay has a buyer protection policy. do you really think that i would list it as a GOOD USED cam if it wasn't?
 

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Opeler
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If your car is an automatic (as your profile indicates), you're probably better off with a stock cam to give you more torque off the line. Any performance cam moves the power band up (gain higher end power and lose low end). FWIW: If you want to gain more power (along with improved drivability and mileage), ditch the header and go back to a stock exhaust manifold (with the 2" exhaust).
 

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Über Genius
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Well a buyer on ebay can always file a "item not as described" claim if it is not a good used cam. are you aware of that? ebay has a buyer protection policy. do you really think that i would list it as a GOOD USED cam if it wasn't?
And THIS is why I stopped selling on Ebay.
Too many people buy something, test it on their car, don't like it, and say it wasn't as described. Then I'd have to pay for return shipping or just give them the item.
The last thing I sold on Ebay was a very hard to find set of headers. They sold WAY too cheap and then shipping was $65. I refused to let the buyer keep them for free and had to pay the $65 return shipping.
So, it cost me $130 and there was NOTHING wrong with the headers.

BTW, the buyer was really mad that I wasn't going to let him keep the headers.
 

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And THIS is why I stopped selling on Ebay.
Too many people buy something, test it on their car, don't like it, and say it wasn't as described. Then I'd have to pay for return shipping or just give them the item.
The last thing I sold on Ebay was a very hard to find set of headers. They sold WAY too cheap and then shipping was $65. I refused to let the buyer keep them for free and had to pay the $65 return shipping.
So, it cost me $130 and there was NOTHING wrong with the headers.

BTW, the buyer was really mad that I wasn't going to let him keep the headers.
Ditto here. EBay now leaves sellers hanging when the buyer is dishonest. I’d rather trash, give away or donate items.
 

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The Young One
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
If your car is an automatic (as your profile indicates), you're probably better off with a stock cam to give you more torque off the line. Any performance cam moves the power band up (gain higher end power and lose low end). FWIW: If you want to gain more power (along with improved drivability and mileage), ditch the header and go back to a stock exhaust manifold (with the 2" exhaust).
Well my stock manifold has broken studs on it. And the exhaust sounds so good with the header on it. I will probably keep it how it is and not get a cam. Yah my car is an auto.
 

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Opel Key Master
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Also a cam from a “Delta” head is the same as any three bearing cam but the bearings are an odd size in that head. I wish the “’Delta Head”. Was never discussed because it makes it sound elusive and powerful, when it is actually one to probably stay away from due to parts
 
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