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Opeler
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hi there , ive seen a picture of a gt with bummper removed and the front has been de seemed . has anyone out there done this ? how much hassle is it ? :confused:
 

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Old Opeler
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Smoooth!

One of the front clips I imported had the front bumper moulded onto the body work and it does look good. The bumper was brazed to the sheet metal and the gaps filled with nuckie! ( er! bodyfiller - that is ) Pic attached:
 

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Moderator
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jim, what is that surface that the clip is resting on, frosty grass?
 

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Old Opeler
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Frost in Tennessee?

jordan said:
jim, what is that surface that the clip is resting on, frosty grass?
The pic is a download from eBay where I bought the front clip. I wondered what it was on too - it was carpet!!
I managed to pursuade the seller, who was from Memphis, to ship it all the way to me. Well, he delivered it to his local LEP International pickup office and they did the rest and got it to me in nine days! I paid for the freight this end - after the BIG parcel arrived. Cost a bit but saved over $7,500 worth of panel forming from flat sheet metal ( the only other alternative! ).

Here is a picture of the parcel being delivered to LEP in Memphis.
 

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I don't think I'm too fond of actually molding the bumper into the body.. One thing I really do like is the look of removing the F. Bumber and that metal seam that goes behind it, with an addition of the California Style Front Spoiler. Looks like it'd take quite a bit of work, but gives it a more Modern look.
 

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Vendor
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I have a black '69 GT that has the front bumper molded in as well (along with the front spoiler from Lenk), but I'm not partial to it either. It's a matter of taste I suppose, but I really prefer the look of the chrome bumper with the spoiler. This "feature" has been the sole reason I haven't gotten the car on the road since I purchased it about three years ago.
 

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Hmm...Pic didn't make it...

Odd, the pic didn't make it...second try.
 

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boomerang opeler
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Sparky73 said:
I don't think I'm too fond of actually molding the bumper into the body.. One thing I really do like is the look of removing the F. Bumber and that metal seam that goes behind it, with an addition of the California Style Front Spoiler. Looks like it'd take quite a bit of work, but gives it a more Modern look.
if you are ok with a mig welder then you can cut /grind off 2" at a time and reweld it. do it in jumps from side to side to avoid distorsion, when finnished dress up with a anglegrinder with a flap wheel on and its ready to paint (dont forget to treat the inside with a good rust preventer [por15 or whatever it is])
the lip is only there to make it easy to spotweld together so is not a major structural joint and full weld is stronger :D
 

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boomerang opeler
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happy to help we members of the north of england opel owners club have to stick together me you and azzi cover the north moter mouth and a few others cover the south :)
ps pic have to match size and format for here ,
so easyest is jpeg and 600x400 pixels
 

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I was thinking of powder coating the front bumper and maybe the back ones too, to match the body. Has any one done this? Pictures? :cool:
 

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baronbors said:
I was thinking of powder coating the front bumper and maybe the back ones too, to match the body. Has any one done this?
On a related note, I am contemplating modifying the bumpers on my '75 SportWagon. I am thinking of removing the rubber spacers (between the bumper and the body), and then shortening the mounting shocks (probably replace them with solid mounts) and possibly grinding the inner edges of the bumpers so that they fit tightly against the bodywork. Then I might paint the aluminum bumpers the same colour as the body. And since the rubber rub strips are damaged, and very hard to obtain, I might replace then with an after-market rub strip, after filling the holes for the OEM rubber.

Anyone had experience in prepping and painting these anodized aluminum bumpers so the paint sticks properly?
 

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boomerang opeler
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hi keith you will need to use an etch primer to get a good grip on alumimium
Its a primer activated by adding phosphoric acid so a good organic air filter mask is needed but apart from that its the same as any other primer
infact its the best first coat on any substrate steel ,alloy or plastic
 

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boomerang opeler
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tom i think you would have to sandblast all the crome off to powder coat but after that it would be ok when its ground down take the time to sand it real smooth[800 grit ] as you will get a better finnish inside could be left sandblasted
 

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baz said:
tom i think you would have to sandblast all the crome off to powder coat
I think the PO alteady did as their is no chrome or at least I think there is no chrome on the front. It is a dull pewter like finish but it doesn't rust. Could the PO just blast the top coat of the chrome off? :confused:
 

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boomerang opeler
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it could be just zinc plated to stop it rusting till a new one was found !!
that goes a dull tinnish pewter
 

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Old Opeler
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Hard Stuff!

Chrome is very hard stuff and usually has to be chemically stripped off in an industrial vat - also decorative chrome is usually applied over a layer of copper plate and/or nickel plate. That is where the description "tripple plated" comes from for high quality plating - copper with a nickel layer on top overlayed with the chrome finish layer. The point of this is that ALL the plating needs to come off before powder coating as there is sometimes rust lurking under it in patches that need to be cleaned up before painting. At the very least the chrome layer needs complete removal as it does not have a very good surface for paint to adhere to - too smooth. Sand blasting may rough up the surface enough for good adhesion and will winkle out any rusty bits .... worth a try as chemical srtipping is quite expensive and is usually only done by plating shops.
 

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Keith, Jim, Baz, et.al., POR-15 folks have a product called Glisten PC which is a 2-part coating designed to paint over chrome used in a marine environment. The chrome is prepared by applying a chemical spray of Metal Prep AP 120 on the chrome and leaving it on for no more than 2 minutes, hose it off, let it dry, then apply the Glisten PC. I would presume after it has cured for 48 hours, their recommended time, it could be sanded down slightly and a regular paint applied. HTH.
 

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On this car the bumper is made of 1-3/4x.090 rollbar tubing bent up to match the shape of the nose. The original front body seam is cut out, the lower nose panel separated. Actually the whole nose, er, the whole car is gutted, the body is only the actual exterior skins, but, don't go this far. The bumper is extremely reinforced with truss-like tubing patterns and then attaches to the frame rails. The body and lower nose is just pop riveted to the bumper so it's easily removed/repaired (we plan on using this bumper). Were it to be a street car the body would be welded to the bumper and smoothed out nice for a seamless look, but this isn't needed in our application...
I like how it now looks like a mid-70's stingray now.
I went and looked at our intact parts car and see that it wouldn't be too bad of a job to do this and keep the nose more original/intact (headlights, etc.).
Customizing a car is all about how far do you want to go to be different.
I like the ones that have been severelly altered yet retain enough shape to make it obvious what it is, or was. And I like "phantoms", cars that are just altered enough to make you wonder if it is factory, just an unknown option or later year. Such as that yellow GT roadster. I love it!! This hidden bumper trick does that. What we did to the rear panel also takes away from the 70 look and mimics how Corvettes look in later years.
 
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