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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My carb is leaking and needs to be rebuilt. I pulled it off and it has "Solex Made in W. Germany" written in 3 places, but I can't seem to find any model number. Anyone know where it is stamped or what type came stock on a 70 GT?

Thanks,
Todd
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That's all good if you have more than $20. I've been dealing with Solex carbs for many years having grown up on VWs. If rebuilt and adjusted properly they work fine. Anyway, I still can't find a model tag or stamp anywhere.

Todd
 
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Solex 32/32 TDID

I don't know if this helps, but, I think the Solex is a 32 DIDTA
Hi
the 1900 Ascona and Manta used most the 32/32 DIDTA-4
The GT used the 32/32 TDID with mechanic second level in 1969 order no. E 16034 for manual trans and E 16035 for automatic trans. After 1971 april comes no.E 16682 for manual and E 16683 for auto trans.

Norbert
 

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Mostly leaking and very sensative to dirt is what type most of them are. If it is on a GT it should have the mechanical secondary setup in the base plate which is better that the vacumn one. If you have to run a Solex there are a few tricks that help them be somewhat less of a PITA. Biggest improvments is to make sure it is clean and keep it that way, aquire a spare secondary venturi and install it in the primary side to make the carb. perform a little better, get a air fuel mixture meter for adjusting the carb and make sure the air corrector jet and passage is clean and clear.
 

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Opeler
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That's all good if you have more than $20. I've been dealing with Solex carbs for many years having grown up on VWs. If rebuilt and adjusted properly they work fine.

Todd
One would think that.

Actually, the solexs used on VW's, and some other german cars are good carbs.

But the ones they put on the Opels, especially the ones on the Gt's are a nightmare, a never ending series of frustration.

However, I sense that's not what you want to hear, so go ahead, have at it. I am sure there are lots of folks that will be happy to send you cores.

If you can make a Solex run right, more power to you.

If it lasts three months, we will all be amazed, heck if it lasts three weeks you'll have done better than most. Personally I would not trust one to work for three days.

You are more than welcome to try, but beware of The Bog, and his friend, Loping Idle.

I'll give you this advice: Get a thick piece of glass, and a bunch of fine sandpaper. The darn things warp, which causes vacuum leaks, and that's the main problem with them.

The other thing is, even if you do get one to work half way decent, it won't last.

If you ask around, there's usually a used weber that somebody will let you have for a decent price, when you get sick of the Solex Game.

Anyway, good luck.
 

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One would think that. If you can make a Solex run right, more power to you..........
In my first GT back in the early 70's, I did not have to touch the Solex for the 6 years that I had that car. Compared to the two Webers that I got now that have to be re-tuned every year. jmtcw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
So a little mixed opinion here. Point taken about the inherent warping of this Solex, so I guess I'll proceed with caution and small expectations. So I'll use my $32.50 and invest in a rebuild kit, and have a piece of glass and some sandpaper handy. I'll hope with that, along with my experience rebuilding PICTs, I'll take a shot at rebuilding this one. If that fails, I guess I'll save my duckets for a new carb in the Spring.

Wish me luck,
Todd
 

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Todd, done correctly the solex will work fine, just make sure you install all gaskets with a very small amount of sealer, when mounting the heat shield and carb spacer, this helps with the vacume leaks. The is no performance value to the solex, and. most people have done some type of upgrade to the engine and are after more power with the 32/36 weber, slightly larger. On a GOOD ( 130+ comp.) stock motor you should be ok. :yup: Good luck keep us posted.
 

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It's the same old problem with these antique's.
Most people will strip the treads,over tighten the base and body,and on and on.
Lloyd made a very good suggestion with swapping the primary venturi
with another secondary from a spare carb.
 

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Venturi

Todd, somewhere I have a bunch of old Solex venturis. I too, had a number of VWs in my garage over the years. I also have a used Weber I have retired during my rebuild. If you are interested in any of this, let me know.
 

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Todd,

The thing about a Solex, is....

When they were New, they worked.

Note: I was the last of the Opel Guys, who worked at The Buick Dealer

They were not a great carb, nor a bad carb, but they did work.

BUT

Sooner or later, they needed a rebuild, had to be kitted, whatever you call it.

Note: I have rebuilt hundreds of carbs, and excel at Quadrajets

You rebuild a Solex, and the problems start...

It has a loping idle, it dribbles, it bogs, it whatever.

It's like herding cats.

All I can say is Good Luck.

Keep us posted.
 

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My carb is leaking and needs to be rebuilt. I pulled it off and it has "Solex Made in W. Germany" written in 3 places, but I can't seem to find any model number. Anyone know where it is stamped or what type came stock on a 70 GT?

Thanks,
Todd
Hey Todd,

Todd here, just throwing some killer advice your way, you know we sell these carbs for only $20 and we sell all the parts and carb kits too. But always with a cautionary word of advice. We will give you a for instance, one of the many walk-in customers we had was a guy who took his Solex Carb to a professional Carb rebuilder place. The old time owner told him straight out that even if he gave him the $250 to rebuild this carb, he couldn't guarantee it, in that he could make it run great that day, but the very next day or a week later, it wouldn't idle and or would run terrible again. All the money wasted. We laughed and couldn't agree more. Todd's office has more than 100 Weber carbs laying around it and during the customers one hour visit Todd built him a Weber carb with a lifetime guarantee. We say Weber because that is the way to go. Get rid of the Solex. Bolt on a simple Weber and drive the car every day for years and years and years. Go anywhere, don't be afraid, they run great. Our proper good used ones are $99, rebuild kits with all the goodies are $46.95 or you can just get our famous lifetime guarantee rebuilds for $239 out the door. Each one custom built your way but perfect for your Opel. Todd has built at least 2,000 of these carbs over the last 31 years and would be happy to help you out. We are going to send you an article called Explaining Stage Equipment which completely covers this swap and will answer your questions as well. This article is in our 135 page catalog and we will send you one tomorrow.
 

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Acts like no fuel getting into carb

Hi all.
I am extremely frustrated. I have a solex carburetor. The car Had been drivable although I have not driven it much since I got it fired up due to not having any tags on the car. Just drove it around the neighborhood. It drove fine. I recently had the car up on jacks for about 3 to 4 weeks while doing a break job. I also replaced all of the fuel vent lines to the gas tank. Those are the only changes I made

Here's my issue. I started it up and let. It ran in the garage for a long time granted the idle was a bit choppy. There were no issues with it cutting out or not running. I put the tires back on and decided to go for a drive. I drove down the driveway and back up the drive and then it cut out. And will not refire. It is acting like it's not getting fuel into the carburetor. I put some carb start in there and it fires up and then quickly cuts out.
I don't get it? I did not change anything? Could there be anything wrong with the vent lines to the gas tank that would cause this? What did I do wrong? Gas tank says three quarters full and I can hear it sloshing around in the tank behind me
 
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