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Well, since you asked. I wasn't going to say anything because I don't want to come across as the know it all. Looks like there are a few places where you have some rust through that you did not replace. My advice is to cut it out and replace it. If you just clean it the best you can and use filler over it, it may look good at first, but will eventually come back. Cut the cancer out and replace any metal with pin holes.

Then, on any panels that you have spread filler, coat the whole panel in sprayable filler. Most venders will refer to it as a high build polyester primer. If you don't, you will see little shadow lines through the final paint top coat where the filler ends and the metal begins.

Good luck. If you have little to no body work experience, expect to waste some $$ on trial and error to get it perfect. The biggest part of paint is in the prep.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Well, since you asked. I wasn't going to say anything because I don't want to come across as the know it all. Looks like there are a few places where you have some rust through that you did not replace. My advice is to cut it out and replace it. If you just clean it the best you can and use filler over it, it may look good at first, but will eventually come back. Cut the cancer out and replace any metal with pin holes.

Then, on any panels that you have spread filler, coat the whole panel in sprayable filler. Most venders will refer to it as a high build polyester primer. If you don't, you will see little shadow lines through the final paint top coat where the filler ends and the metal begins.

Good luck. If you have little to no body work experience, expect to waste some $$ on trial and error to get it perfect. The biggest part of paint is in the prep.
Believe me I wanted a clean slate to see what I was working with. I didnt do any of the exterior at all. I only did the firewall/ transmission tunnel and that was cut out from another opel and welded in. Some floor was replaced and handmade by me. As for the bondo on exterior i just cringe...
 

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There's also some info here somewhere as to the air passages within the car too ( hopefully Gordon or others with a better description will chime in) that you 'll want to make sure you get as much of the dust/media out that will find it's way in there and cause drainage issues.
Awesome to hear your leading ( old school) it will out last the car when done properly
 
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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
There's also some info here somewhere as to the air passages within the car too ( hopefully Gordon or others with a better description will chime in) that you 'll want to make sure you get as much of the dust/media out that will find it's way in there and cause drainage issues.
Awesome to here your leading ( old school) it will out last the car when done properly
I'm interested in hearing that with the air passages! Lead will fill in any pin holes or whatever so I like it.
 

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Well hopefully they will chime in. I know Gordon ( scifi guy) talked about it in this thread of his new project
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Well hopefully they will chime in. I know Gordon ( scifi guy) talked about it in this thread of his new project
Quite the lengthy discussion I like the lights on that red opel its very unique. But 2 gallons of bondo??? Haha this has maybe a quart if that hahaha
 

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1970 Opel Gt - Purchased July 1972 - Chartreuse - restored - 3000 miles as of 02-16, 2021 -
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Good luck with your build - getting the shell in great condition and starting there is in my humble opinion the dream come true. An opportunity to basically build a new car. Looks like you are off to a great start. Best part is you can take your time and get virtually all the information you will ever need on this forum and OGTS. Keep up the good work with lots and lots of pictures.;)
 

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There's also some info here somewhere as to the air passages within the car too ( hopefully Gordon or others with a better description will chime in)

Gordo here. The "air passages" he's referring to air the footwell flow through vents and the chamber that houses the door hinges. People seldom pay any attention to these areas, but they're a major place where rust starts just behind the front wheel wells. Those chambers are barely, if even, painted on the inside, so they rust from the inside out. There's all sort of places like this on a GT. Both the front and rear of the rear wheel wells and the entire tail panel have no drains to let any water that gets in....out. You can drill holes if you want. But the main thing is that these cars are 50 years old and any damage/rust has already occurred, so what are you going to do about it? Realistically, you can't get in those places to remove any rust that has started. So, the best thing is to spray epoxy primer down and into those areas to block the oxygen and prevent further rusting. Eastwood sells cans of epoxy primer. Try climbing into every nook and cranny and spray all those hard to reach with a paint sprayer/impossible to see areas. Stop the oxygen and you stop the rust. The whole nose and under and to the sides of the headlight buckets is another hard to spray paint area, you have to climb in there through the radiator wall.
 
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