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Raging Opel-holic
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65 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a Crane Cams FireBall XR700 and a FireBall LX91 coil. I have a header (4 into 1) and a Weber (32/36 dgav converted to dgev). What is the best plug for this set-up, the Bosch platenum? The car also has a ceramic type ballast resistor made by Delco and has the stock resistor wire bypassed. Does this sound correct so far? I was wondering if I should also replace the resistor to a different type. Thanks in advance. And speaking of advance should I be running at eight degrees of advance with this ignition system. I am trying to get the valve train tuned and need to eliminate any possible side issues with the new system.
 

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Opeler
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for the spark plugs, you should just use your favorite brand, or the ones that you've had luck with. Spark plug types is a very controversial issue, and you can ask many different people which they perfer and they'll all say something different.

as for advance, set it at whatever works best. 8 deg. sounds like a good palce to start, but you never know what is best unless you try out other degrees. take it for a test drive at 8, set it to 9 deg., and try 7 deg also, then keep it at whichever felt the best.

no experience with ballast resistors though, sorry
 

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Raging Opel-holic
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Maybe a bit of Bob's help?

I am looking for someone with a bit more experience than myself with an electronic ignition and engine set-up to give some pointers. I know how to get a stock Weber car tuned with points and the basics and know about the standard plug choices, but I need help with the upgrades or stage gear. I think that Bob is brilliant with full race and such.

Bosch Platinum 4323?

In the future I want to change to a 2.4 botom end with a 2.0e head and copper bellowed head gasket tied to dual side draft webbers or mikuni's if possible.
 

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6,344 Posts
I'm not sure about the voltage required for the electronic ignitions, but the ceramic resistor is to drop the voltage down to 6 volts after the engine is started and running on a standard coil/point ignition. That may be why the original resistor wire has been bypassed. I will bow to someone on this site with more info on electronic ignition systems. Try running a search for electronic ignition, I know this has been discussed many times. You might go to the forums and look there. HTH.

Ron
 

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Super Moderator
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GT_Pheel said:
I have a Crane Cams FireBall XR700 and a FireBall LX91 coil. I have a header (4 into 1) and a Weber (32/36 dgav converted to dgev). What is the best plug for this set-up, the Bosch platenum? The car also has a ceramic type ballast resistor made by Delco and has the stock resistor wire bypassed. Does this sound correct so far? I was wondering if I should also replace the resistor to a different type. Thanks in advance. And speaking of advance should I be running at eight degrees of advance with this ignition system. I am trying to get the valve train tuned and need to eliminate any possible side issues with the new system.
Have had GREAT luck using Bosch Super Plugs W7BC (no resistor, copper core, 98¢) in several of my Opels with either freshly rebuilt, modified or higher mileage engines. Have also used Bosch 4232 (old WR7BP) plugs with great success, but primarily in "newer", fresh engines.

The stock ~1.4Ω resistance wire was used with the stock "non-resistive" coil (no internal resistor) and results in ~9.5VDC running voltage. The "start" bypass wire is wired in parallel to this (from the starter solenoid spade lug) to provide a full 12.6V at the coil, and a consequently higher secondary voltage at the spark plugs, during engine start.

:cool:
 

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gap

What kind of gap would you suggest running? (1.9l, 2.0 head, pertronix, and Flamethrower coil) As I understood it, the extra power from the coil allows you to use a larger gap in the spark plug. Bigger spark=more fire...but that's all in theory.
 

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I've had great success with NGK's for racing and for hi-po street use. I run .045" gap with the Compufire DIS-IX, but for anything else I'd suggest .032" to .035" for better starting. With a turbo, nitrous, or really compression, you'll have to tighten that gap up a bit more.
 
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