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Hey everyone - I just installed my SSD Weber and manifold, but am having trouble figuring out what to do with the stock vacuum lines. I know Keith from Alberta has explained the stock routing in MAJOR detail, but I wanted to see what people have done with SSD and DSD applications. Right now, I only have the stock (brake booster/retard for distributor) piece that threads into the Steinmetz manifold (originally it threaded into the stock intake manifold below the carb). I was planning on not hooking up the vacuum line for the distributor retard (it was mainly there for emissions), but I need to figure out where to install the vacuum advance line for the distributor and the "metered orifice" line from the valve cover. Also, I can't find any vacuum ports on the DCOE to hook up the vacuum advance for the distributor...

Any ideas?

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Paul
 

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Branch the advance and crankcase lines off the manifold port.
I would add a fixed bushing(orifice)in the breather line.

BTW the original vacuum "tree" design was changed several times over the years.
For example these two..
trees.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Cool, thanks Dan. Where would I find and how would I install a metered orifice inline with the new "branch" to the valve cover? I guess anything with a 1/16'' hole in the middle would suffice?

Also, the vacuum for the distributor advance comes from the carb... no vacuum with the throttle plates closed and then vacuum when the throttle plates open. If I branch the distributor advance off of the manifold vacuum, wouldn't it pull advance all of the time? Would I have to time the motor differently to account for that?

Paul
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Dan's right and I'll take things a step further for you. I've done all this single and dual side draft stuff, too. To make it even simpler for you, tap out the vacuum port in the SSD manifold to use a common NPT plumbing fitting(The size you need is in the first picture below). Once you have it tapped for a common plumbing fitting, available at every hardware store in America and Home Depot, etc. for a dollar or less, you can mix and match to your hearts content and choose from all sorts of fittings, reducers, T's, L's, extenders, or what ever you need to hook up all your oem vacuum lines.


This is the size tap you’ll need and what it looks like;



At the top of the pic below, you can see my vacuum port plumbing fitting combo that I used on my Dual Side Draft set up. Single or dual, it’s all the same, you just mix and match fittings until you fill all your needs. Buying all the fittings you need might cost you $10. Notice that I found some CHROME straight extender fittings for my set up. Ye-ha!

 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Thanks! By the way, pictures didn't make it in your last post :(

For a metered orrifice, should I buy an appropriate fitting, braze the fitting closed, then drill a 1/16 hole for the valve cover "small" fitting? And, for the distributor advance fitting... will it be affected differently by the manifold vacuum? (I would think it would be different then the carb base vacuum that it draws from in stock form (eg. no vacuum at idle)).

Planning on doing this also (tapping valve cover for barbed fittings):
http://www.opelgt.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=557&d=1055008876

Or am I just thinking WAY too much into everything and I just need to get stuff hooked up to plain ole vacuum? :)

Paul
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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The pictures were in the post right from the start.

Only about 10-15 of all the members on this site use the new photo system that makes the pictures come up full size on the screen right from the start. There does appear to be a 6-24 hour delay, before some members can see the pics. No explanation for this has been discovered.

The really old fashioned, dawn of the internet, way of starting a post/clicking the insert picture icon/uploading the pic from your computer is what makes those dinky thumbnail pics that you have to hover your mouse pointer over and then wait for it to expand, only inserts that pic into that thread and nowhere else. No one will ever be able to find your pic anywhere else but that thread. There are 24,000 threads, any pic someone posts exists only in that thread and can't be seen anywhere else ever.

To see all 2000 pics I have ever posted, anywhere on this site, do this:

1) Click on "The Scifi Guy" above my picture on the right side of this post. A menu of choices appears.
2) Click "View Profile" from that list.
3) When you get to my Profile page, scroll down on the left hand side until you see "My Albums". To see ALL my albums and ALL the pictures I have ever uploaded click "More......" next to the words My Albums.

That's it. You will now see the first page, of five pages, of my albums. Each album has 50 pictures. Each album is titled for the subject or category of the pictures it contains.
Click on any individual album and 50 thumbnails will show up. Click on any of those pictures and it will expand to almost full screen. You are now looking at one of my pics. Click "Back" on your email program, or Internet Explorer, or whatever you go on line with and you will return to the thumbnail pics. Click on other pics that interest you to see them.

If you want to see all 2000 of my pics...................better buy a case of beer, it's gonna take a while.......

:veryhappy
 

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Bikini Inspector
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5,770 Posts
The pictures were in the post right from the start.

Only about 10-15 of all the members on this site use the new photo system that makes the pictures come up full size on the screen right from the start. There does appear to be a 6-24 hour delay, before some members can see the pics. No explanation for this has been discovered.

The really old fashioned, dawn of the internet, way of starting a post/clicking the insert picture icon/uploading the pic from your computer is what makes those dinky thumbnail pics that you have to hover your mouse pointer over and then wait for it to expand, only inserts that pic into that thread and nowhere else. No one will ever be able to find your pic anywhere else but that thread. There are 24,000 threads, any pic someone posts exists only in that thread and can't be seen anywhere else ever.

To see all 2000 pics I have ever posted, anywhere on this site, do this:

1) Click on "The Scifi Guy" above my picture on the right side of this post. A menu of choices appears.
2) Click "View Profile" from that list.
3) When you get to my Profile page, scroll down on the left hand side until you see "My Albums". To see ALL my albums and ALL the pictures I have ever uploaded click "More......" next to the words My Albums.

That's it. You will now see the first page, of five pages, of my albums. Each album has 50 pictures. Each album is titled for the subject or category of the pictures it contains.
Click on any individual album and 50 thumbnails will show up. Click on any of those pictures and it will expand to almost full screen. You are now looking at one of my pics. Click "Back" on your email program, or Internet Explorer, or whatever you go on line with and you will return to the thumbnail pics. Click on other pics that interest you to see them.

If you want to see all 2000 of my pics...................better buy a case of beer, it's gonna take a while.......

:veryhappy
I have some more dog pictures???!!!

I also post to my album so they are full size in my threads. Gordon taught me this, BUT you have to resize them first, and then use the embed code etc. Attaching as a thumbnail is much easier, but stupid.


There is a new way?

Also, I havent read your entire thread, but there are Opel vacuum trees for sale on Ebay germany for your application I believe. shiny chrome ones too.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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The pics on your Profile page or however you access your albums that insert the full size pics into a post is the "New System". There is one other ancient "upload to the site" system that blows, big time. The super crappy upload-directly-into-the-post method is a one post deal. That one post is the only place anyone can find your pic. Ever.


Yes, there is an enormous amount of labor on Mine/Frozen Tundra/Others end of things to get the pics from our cameras and ready them for upload to the "Always Available for Anyone to See, Any Time, Anywhere, Forever" new photo system. About 25 clicks per pic

25 clicks X 2000 pics = Uhhhhh..........I can't count that high.

:veryhappy
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Gordon, are those grease fittings in your intake used to lube the fuel and air mixture for it to go down quicker? I'll have to try that
They are modified, drilled out, grease fittings that enable me to use a carb/throttle balancer to sync my dual carbs. I got the idea from PJ, but took it a step further.

Once the carbs are sync'd, caps and glue plug them up. You only need to sync the side draft throttles/manifold vacuum once at initial set up and maybe waaaaaaaaay down the road sometime if you mess with them or somehow the throttle screws vibrate out of adjustment(Virtually impossible, I'm told).

I use a simple motorcycle carb balancer(PJ's idea). It's a box with 2 hoses. Just plug one hose onto the modified grease fittings on each of the two side draft intake manifolds. Start adjusting the throttle screws at idle until the needle on the carb balancer box says there is zero difference in vacuum in the two manifolds. Done.

Actually, I installed 2 grease fittings too many. I installed 4 grease fittings, one in each runner(2), in each of the manifolds(2). I only needed one in each manifold.

By the way, by "modified grease fitting" I mean that I drilled them to get the spring/ball out of them. The carb balancer only requires a pin hole in each manifold to do it's job.

Further by the way, An SSD set up does not require sync'ing the carbs because there's only one carb.

:veryhappy
 

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... And, for the distributor advance fitting... will it be affected differently by the manifold vacuum? (I would think it would be different then the carb base vacuum that it draws from in stock form (eg. no vacuum at idle)).

Or am I just thinking WAY too much into everything and I just need to get stuff hooked up to plain ole vacuum? :)

Paul
Your Correct Paul
With the vacuum flipped around you'll need to set the timing differently.
Very old trick for BB Olds or BBC's
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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Uhhhh........guys. Wait a minute. What the heck?

Unless Metalvolks is running a plain-ass, plain cam, plain 1.9 engine, you don't use vacuum advance on a higher level or upgraded Opel engine. Especially with side drafts.

Metalvolks:
If you have a 2.0, 2.2, or 2.4 liter engine, you do not need vacuum advance, in fact it messes things up. Especially if you have an upgraded cam in any of those engines. So there is no need to run a hose from the carb to the dizzy. Even guys with plain 1.9 engines, but with an upgraded cam can delete the vacuum advance

The mechanical advance that is built into the dizzy is enough.

I don't know what size engine and modifications you have, but one would assume you've done the first step in engine power increase by installing a better cam, other wise why would you go for the relatively minor hp increase of side drafts, right? If you have an upgraded cam, you can delete the vacuum advance on ANY size Opel engine.

The engine will run erratic if you use it.

:veryhappy
 

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Uhhhh........guys. Wait a minute. What the heck?

The mechanical advance that is built into the dizzy is enough.
Gordo
The mechanical is based on engine speed not load.
With little load you can get away with more advance hence vac. advance.
The wedge head can handle ^ 50 degrees at the right conditions.
 

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Just Some Dude in Jersey
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I can't win any argument against your much greater automotive knowledge, Dan.

:veryhappy



I'll keep it simple then. I don't know anyone with side drafts who still uses the vacuum advance. Not PJ, not Duane, not............okay, that's the only two people I know personally with side drafts. :veryhappy

I'll also say that I don't know of anyone with an upgraded or larger displacement Opel engine that still uses vac advance.

But, what do I know, I'm just a wanker from New Jersey!

:veryhappy
 

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Gordo
The mechanical is based on engine speed not load.
With little load you can get away with more advance hence vac. advance.
The wedge head can handle ^ 50 degrees at the right conditions.
Been preaching for years that the vacuum advance should be left in place on a distributor for 'most' street engines. Have I ever removed and locked down the vacuum advance plate on an Opel distributor? Sure, on a circle track car. Very few of us are building dedicated 'race cars'.

Harold
 

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Been preaching for years that the vacuum advance should be left in place on a distributor for 'most' street engines. Have I ever removed and locked down the vacuum advance plate on an Opel distributor? Sure, on a circle track car. Very few of us are building dedicated 'race cars'.

Harold
From all the threads that I read, the vac, retard is removed. Like Harold said, only if your doing a race engine, I was under the impression that the vac adv. at low speed ( city driving) was a help, and once you get going, it doesn't matter
 

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Is that dan supporting vacuum advance? Wasn't he the very bird that said he threw those vacuum pots away?
Dan probably won't own up to it, but he is the Devil's 'Chief Advocate'. :haha:

Harold
Well I wouldn’t use those words.....:)
On the other hand I do like to take the other side...just to keep the conversation interesting:yup:
 

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Opeler
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I’m getting everything hooked back up on my car, and I’m unsure where to hook up some of the vacuum hoses for my engine.

I’ve got an bored-over 2.2, with dual DCOE 45s with an automatic transmission. I have 1 runner on each of the two manifolds tapped and tied together for brake booster. Also have a reducer-t on that line with a smaller hose to the vacuum modulator on the transmission. The two openings in the valve cover, the large one is PCV and I’ve got a small air filter hooked up there. Where is the smaller opening hooked up to?
Any other advice?

Eric
 
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