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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The fun begins

Well, I finally got my engine at home now, so now begins the process of tearing it down and getting it rebuilt. I'm going to try and remember to take pictures throughout the whole process to use on the tech reference forum. Should be fun tho, hopefully it won't take me too long. *knock on wood* :)

few questions though, what size is the torq bolts for the head? I'm going to have to go buy the correct one for that before I get too far. Also what's the easiest way to get the torque convertor and flex plate off? It looks like I'm going to have to drop the pan to get to the 3 bolts on the convertor, but you can *almost* get a socket in beside the engine near the starter area.


Anyways, wish me luck.
 

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The bolts are not torx they are serrated or tri-square. It uses a 12mm serrated bit for the head and 8mm for the front if you have a 71+ motor, and the 3 cam bolts are 8mm serrated as well.

Most larger Napa stores have these tools on hand for like $5 or less each I think.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
it's a 1.9L out of a 1970 GT, it looks like it's a torx to me, I know it's not a square bit. Never heard of a serrated, what's that look like?
 

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Serrated Tools

Greg,

Think of a torx head, but with 12 points instead of 6. You (and all Opel owners who do their own work) need the 8 mm for the intake to exhaust manifold bolts (below the carb), the hidden timing chain bolt behind the water pump, the cam sprocket, and the torque tube to differential bolts. I think that is all of them. And you need the 12 mm serrated tool for the head bolts. There are also 10 mm serrated bolts that hold the brake calipers together, but you will NEVER remove those. NEVER!! Bad boy, do NOT separate the caliper halves, because the internal gaskets are not available, and you will have to throw the calipers away!

Where possible, I have changed the factory serrated bolts out to socket head cap screws with Allen heads, as they are much less prone to stripping. But I have not found replacement head bolts.

The serrated tools used to be available from OpelGT Source, but I don't see them listed anymore. They look like a socket/Allen head, but my 12 mm is more like an 3/8 inch extension with a serrated end. I bought my 12 m from MAC tools (#SC91) and my 8 mm is a Snap-on (#8FTSM8B), but I understand most larger tool suppliers carry them. Just ask for a 8 m and 12 mm, 12 point serrated drive bit.

HTH
 

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My keyboard has been dropped a few too many times by my 6 year old daughter, so when I typed "8 m" or "12 m", just remember I meant "mm" (millimeter). I have a new Dell P-4, 2.26 GHz running on the back desk, just waiting for my wireless router to arrive. Then no more adolescent or infantile fingers mucking with MY computer. They will have their own (as in this old P-200) to wreck. Too many kids, not enough keyboards in the house!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
hehe, yeah my dad did the same thing when I started out with computers, I'll tell you what, that 286 was the coolest thing in the world at the time :)

Anyways, ok yeah I understand now, I wasn't counting points and offhand it looked like a torx. I'll run by the shops tomorrow probably and pick them up.


Thanks
 

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Suggestion

I just rebuilt mine (again) and all of those torx bolts, I replaced with normal bolts. Makes it a whole lot easier.

The only ones I didnt replace are the actual head bolts.

I reccommend that you do it because they can strip easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well picked up some serrated drives ($1.50 a piece) and pulled the head off today. Found a few interesting things, first one of note is the fast that the engine has been either partially apart or rebuilt before... I don't think they put it together with blue RTV and copper silicone :p

Second one was the weld job on the timing chain cover, looks like the timing chain might have thrown something out the right side of the cover down near the pan. someone welded it up... doesn't look like it busted anything off, like it had a crack or blew a hole in the side, because the gasket surface wasn't welded or ground on.

Oh, and the cylinders look in *great* condition, still has the cross hatch on the walls. Looks like it might have been burning some oil though, piston heads were pretty gunked up.

I'll probably end up pulling the timing chain cover off the other engine I have, not too sure about this one, there's one spot on the pan seal area that busted a corner off the groove that the front seal sits in.


Head question... what's the common size valves that are upgraded to? The valves don't look all that small right now.

Anyways, I'll try and get some pics in the gallery tomorrow, now to scrape up all the cash to get the work done :)


Oh, and I found some more serrated bolts.... the oil pickup tube, and it looks like they're about a 6mm... and of course I only bought the 8 and 12mm :p
 

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I went on a hunt for the 12 point serrated bit. Here in Austin, TX, Autozone has a 4 piece set 6, 8, 10, and 12 mm for $14. They fit right into a 1/2" socket (or wrench).
 
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