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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Now you know for sure you have our common malady...OPELITIS. Be sure to take care of your health, it's not good to have a good looking/running Opel if you can't drive it because you're sick. The lady of the house has stated many times that she wishes I would hurry up and finish my "Toy Car". She is sure, after all the time I've spent over, under and through the car, my back will go south again, from a previous on-the-job injury, and I won't be able to drive the car, so she will. What electrical problem?

Ron
 

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Electical prob...

This might be in the wrong section, now, but the elecrical prob is as follows:

If i try to start the car, it wont. The starter will click or the engine will turn over if im lucky... I just charged the the battery, but it only lasted for a few pulls. Then i tried to jump it off, and it turned over but didnt crank. So the only thing i can think of doing now is adjusting the choke to help it start faster.
I was thinking that the weather here might be the prob. with the carb. Its been raining and about 28-34 degrees all day, so that could be the prob with the choke.

But there is still a leak or short in the system... I was told i should check the fuses and i didnt do that, due to the cold, but im thinking of doing it tomorrow, if it clears up...

Anyhow, thanks again for the help,
Rob

Moderators Note: Split thread
 

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boomerang opeler
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it would still crank over with out the choke that wont stop it from spinning
have you tried taking out the spark plugs yet to see if it will spin quickly?
have you checked the earth straps yet to see if they are ok/tight
have you found any reason for the temp problems yet
dont worry rob we will get you through this yet
whats the worst that could happen
we will help you spend a fortune :D
 

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Opeler
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Well about the temp prob, i used a pump(roughly 75-100 GPH) and some radiator flush to flush out the block. I ran it from about 5:45 last night to about 10:00 this morning. A LOT of stuff came out of the water jacket but due to the car's unwanting to start, i havent been able to see if it has worked.

I checked the ground wires and they are alright. But i havent taken out the spark plugs yet. Also, today the ammeter light went out, so i might need to check on the fuses(the meter still works, just not the little orange light)

Anyhow, thanks for the help
-Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Rob, get that bulb in the amp meter replaced, without it the charging system will not work. It goes directly to the regulator to tell the alternator how much output to deliver. Also, a 1-2 second blast of starter fluid down the carb throat will help start the engine. But be careful, if it backfires, a fireball will come out of the carb. I've used it a lot when I was stationed in NoDak, where it really gets cold. Double check the ground wires, both at the battery and the frame rail on the right side of the engine. Even if they are tight corrosion could be lurking underneath causing problems. Seen that too many times.

Ron
 

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Hmm, by starter fluid do you mean gas or the aerosol stuff? Also, i havent checked under the ground wire from the batt, but as there was some corrosion on the positive battery connection, so this could be the prob. You say that the ammeter light is completely necessary to the charging system, this is odd indeed, but ill check it out tomorrow and get back with you
Thanks for the help
-Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeah, Rob, the aerosol spray stuff. It's basic component is ether and it will light off the engine even if the battery is really down, all it needs is a close inflammable mixture and a spark, it will definately explode in the combustion chamber. But like I said, if the engine backfires, you'll know it immediately. A friend in NoDak was using it on a car in the dead of winter, the car backfired, and he lost the fox hair on the outside of his parka hood, along with his eyebrows. Now let me see if I can remember the charging circuit on an alternator. The regulator gets a reference voltage from the light bulb circuit and tells the alternator how much to put out. If the reference voltage, sometime called exciter voltage, is not there, there will be either way too much output or none at all. It depends on how the circuit is wired, and I'm not sure on the Opels, but that bulb is important for the reference voltage, which BTW is normally 4-6 volts. HTH.

Ron
 

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Alternator idiot light . . .

namba209 said:
Yeah, Rob, the aerosol spray stuff. It's basic component is ether and it will light off the engine even if the battery is really down, all it needs is a close inflammable mixture and a spark, it will definately explode in the combustion chamber. But like I said, if the engine backfires, you'll know it immediately. A friend in NoDak was using it on a car in the dead of winter, the car backfired, and he lost the fox hair on the outside of his parka hood, along with his eyebrows. Now let me see if I can remember the charging circuit on an alternator. The regulator gets a reference voltage from the light bulb circuit and tells the alternator how much to put out. If the reference voltage, sometime called exciter voltage, is not there, there will be either way too much output or none at all. It depends on how the circuit is wired, and I'm not sure on the Opels, but that bulb is important for the reference voltage, which BTW is normally 4-6 volts. HTH.

Ron


THE ALTERNATOR WILL NEVER CHARGE THE BATTERY!!
 

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Interesting thing...
I went out today to see about that ammeter light, and i looked at the fuses...

I dont know about anyone else's gt's but for some reason mine has really crappy exposed circuit breakers i think, anyhow, i replaced those with real fuses and cleaned the chassis ground off with my thumb and the gt cranked right up...

Slight prob...
After roughly 10 min of driving, the temp gauge was up to about 3/4 of the way to the redline, luckily I had expected the worst, so i only drove about 3 miles from home. After i got home, i too the radiator cap off with a rag and when i looked at it(the rag) afterwards, it was covered in rust and very little antifreeze...

But anyhow, the gt is currently having its radiator and water jacket backflushed with a sump pump for as of now, about 6 and 1/2 hours...and im gonna let it go till morning.
After that im going to have to
 

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Sorry about that, hit the post button in mid sentence, must mean its time for bed...

But what i was trying to say is that im going to have to flush it again tomorrow for probably about 10-14 hrs...
I think i might have this thing on the run yet...
Thanks,
-Rob
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Rob, if your fuses look like this, they are the correct ones for the GT. Note, this is my fuse panel minus all the wires.

Ron
 

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Opeler
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Well i really cant tell from your picture, but mine were basically a plastic rod with a connecter on each end that was joined by an exposed piece of aluminun or some such metal...looked like they were really badly made to me. But then i am on the high school electric vehicle team, so maybe my standards are higher...lol
 

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boomerang opeler
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yep bob thats an opel fuse
looks like it will fall to bits if you touch it and also looks like s**t
but they have useed them for years and years so must have something going for them
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I took that pic at dark thirty last night and couldn't get the flash to quit working. I'll try again today if you need to see a better pic. BTW regular fuses won't stay in the holder to good. If you look at the ends of theoriginal fuses they have a kinda pointy, round end that is held in by a concave end on the holder. This type of fuse is used on VWs also., and ready available at most auto parts stores

Ron
 

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Fuses

When i was cleaning out the car after i got it home, i found a pack of regular fuses, and they also had the pointy end to them. So i think they shouldnt have any trouble staying in there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Great, they should work then. I've never seen them with the glass tube around them, though, must be something new. I guess that shows to go you that I don't have to replace fuses too often. :)

Ron
 
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