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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just converted my opel to an electronic fuel pump and it starts and immediatly stalls.(I primed it and everything) what could be the problem? I took the old fuel pump off and bolted a metal plate over the opening, is that ok to do? Also alot of pressure is building up in the valve cover, and i can hear the air leak and when i take the cap off a big burst of air comes out. what did i do wrong?
 

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Do you have the large and small hoses hooked up to the valve cover? the small one goes to a metered connection on the intake and the large connects to the air cleaner. This is the Opel PVC system and it keeps the engine from building up pressure which causes all kinds of oil leaks.

Did it run ok before the electric fuel pump install?
 

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The filter in the valve cover is likely plugged if you're building that much pressure. Once you remove the valve cover you'll find a plate screwed to the inside. Remove this plate and you'll find the filter...

-Travis
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
yes it ran great before i changed the pump and both of the holes in the valve cover have plugs in them i have a KN filter and there is no place in the filter for the hose.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
and is it ok to just bolt on a plate where the old pump was? now the reason i changed the pumps is because oil was leaking out of the weep hole in the mechanical fuel pump and it didnt have pressure building up, could the fact that i had the valve cover plugged the reason why oil was coming out of the weep hole?
 

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jordan said:
and is it ok to just bolt on a plate where the old pump was? now the reason i changed the pumps is because oil was leaking out of the weep hole in the mechanical fuel pump and it didnt have pressure building up, could the fact that i had the valve cover plugged the reason why oil was coming out of the weep hole?
Bingo!!
The engine builds up pressure from all the moving parts. There needs to be a place for the pressure to release. If both holes were/are plugged, you are just inviting another oil leak. There is a long thread on here that discusses this. Do a search for vacuum hoses or carb connections. You can punch a hole in the bottom corner of the K&N and put a bulkhead 90° nipple fitting to connect the large valve cover hose. (In a pinch you can just run the hose down, keeping it away from the exhaust. It will probalby leak less oil than the current set up)

Yes, it is ok to bolt the plate on. Make sure it is a low pressure model or it will overpower the float. (Again, do a search for electric fuel pump for more info)
 

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Jordan,

You MUST have the valve cover (and hence crankcase) ventilated, or you will blow oil out the seals, and possibly out the fuel pump push rod as well. For a bunch of information on the Opel CIH engine PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation system), including how to hook it up to an aftermarket air filter, look and read the entire thread at

http://www.opelgt.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=313

As for the fuel pump, did you use a "low pressure" type? The Solex and Weber cars will not tolerate more than 4 psi of inlet pressure, so unless you have a pump that is inherently low pressure, or have used a good quality pressure regulator, you will consistently flood the carb.

HTH, and keep on asking those questions. Oh, and try using the "Search" feature on this site, since many of the questions new Opelers ask have been addressed here at least once. Gary has provided a TERRIFIC resource for the classic Opel owner here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
i think thats what happened because i had the fuel pump hooked up to the #3 fuse (it operates the blower motor for the heat and the cigarette lighter, i disconnected the wire facing the drivers seat and hooked up the fuel pump and the engine wouldnt run, then i disconnected the pump and the engine fired right up, and if i look down the weber carb with the filter off i can see a puddle of gasoline in it. but my walbro fuel pump shuts off and slows down when the engine doesnt need as much fuel but it might still be too much fuel, it doesnt say on the box or the instructions what pressure it is.
 

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filter hook ups

i got a 3236 carb and the adapter plate to use the stock air filter system i found the that big hose which goes from valve cover to air filter would not work any more so i brazed a piece of metal over the whole on the filter and found these mini filters k&n makes that just pop right into the valve cover hole which elements all the problems. hope this helps yah out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
well this ordeal is over i bought the low pressure electronic pump and it works great, but i had it attached to the front of fuse #3 and when that wire is disconnected the engine stalls so i attached it to the back spade of fuse #3 and that worked but im not getting any lower dash lights (emergency Brake light, hazards) the lights them selves work but not the dash light. where should i attach the pump wire?
 

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Electric Fuel Pump Connection

Have you blown a fuse? That might cause some lights to not work. Do you actually have the pump hooked to the #3 terminal? Fuse position #3 is a "switched" terminal, and should have an 8 amp fuse (although the schematic shows 15 amp), and has a yellowish transparent wire on one end (non-fused), which is the resistor wire connected to the coil; the other end is fused, and has a black wire (for the cigar lighter and blower ) and a red/black stripe wire (for the headlight indicator). Nothing to do with the lights.

Is it possible you have it connected to position #4? That terminal should have a 4 amp fuse, and powers the hazard light switch, the key buzzer, clock, and the dome light. But it isn't "switched" (i.e. it doesn't power down off when ignition is off) so that is not a good choice to power the fuel pump.

Have a good look at where you have the fuel pump connected, and if you have any blown fuses. The best location will probably be debated (already has, in fact), but it definitely should be "switched". And many will say also it should be activated (through a relay) by either the +'ve side of the alternator, or even the oil pressure gauge, to be sure that it doesn't run if the engine stops due to an accident. And a bypass to power it with the "start" position, so that you get fuel when you crank the engine over. But that is another (much longer) story.

HTH
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
the pump says to use a 10 amp fuse, and my owners manual say that there are only 5 and 8 amp fuses and thats all i use. #3 is an 8 amp fuse i know for sure. how can i disconnect the cigar lighter and blower motor so nothing else in on that circuit and its free for the pump?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
can anyone post a message of how the pcv system is supposed to be hooked up. that would be great.
 

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You can do a search on hoses which will help or you can go to members photos under webster and find the hose connections but there has been lots of talk on this the last few days, so you should really do both for all of the info.
Webster:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
i didnt want to make a new thread but my dad needs to know if he will need a faster cam if he puts a weber dgv 5a 32/36 carb on his mgb gt or if he can keep the stock cam, i thought some one might know this if they know alot about webers.
 

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jordan said:
i didnt want to make a new thread but my dad needs to know if he will need a faster cam if he puts a weber dgv 5a 32/36 carb on his mgb gt or if he can keep the stock cam, i thought some one might know this if they know alot about webers.
Are you referring to the 'camshaft'? Or a throttle linkage 'cam'? If it is the camshaft, then the stock one is fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
well i looked at my intake manifold and there was was only one threaded hole and there was a "T" in the hole and 1 big line coming out and one "T" that went to the brake booster and the small line coming out of the "T" was cut so i assume that goes to the small port in the valve cover and, the big port goes to the airfilter, tell me if im wrong.
 
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