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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good Morning all,
I seem to have a problem I can't wrap my head around.
As some of you know my son and I rebuilt, sand blasted and painted the entire front suspension including the steering rack.
We only have maybe 50 60 miles on it since this was done.
Yesterday while I was taking pics of the alternator I noticed that the input shaft boot for the steering rack is already torn.
Is there some adjustment I missed when I put it all back together?
It seems as though the mounting boots aren't directional and it only mounts one way so how is this possible?
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The boot should be a snug fit on the pinion shaft only, and should spin freely with the pinion inputs. It shouldn’t really touch the rack and pinion housing. It’s just to keep water and debris out of the pinion housing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The boot should be a snug fit on the pinion shaft only, and should spin freely with the pinion inputs. It shouldn’t really touch the rack and pinion housing. It’s just to keep water and debris out of the pinion housing.
huh, I could see myself stretching it over the housing thinking that is how it sealed it and the shaft would spin in it.
Dang it man, although not to terribly difficult to replace it again I truly dislike doing anything twice solely because I over thought it.
I'll try to take a closer look RallyBob but I think you nailed it.
Thank you for the input
 

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Here’s one I rebuilt a few years back with boot installed.
437497
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Here’s one I rebuilt a few years back with boot installed.
Would you say this was installed incorrectly?
I found a pic in my file before I mounted it but had to take a pc with my phone with it zoomed in on the computer?
View attachment 437497
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Following up on R-B's comment, I just acquired a Rack & Pinion and here is a picture. As Bob stated, the boot fits tightly on the input shaft (where the U-joint is) and spins freely on the rack housing
it appears to look in the same orientation as mine.
I ran a business card between it and the crossmember with no hesitation to make sure it wasn't getting stuck on the cross member
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Just an update.
I wanted to follow up and express my gratitude to OGTS.
This group of folks are AWESOME.!. And truly are the kind of stand up people that others have talked about for years. And will continue to do so.
To my surprise a package showed up yesterday at my house.
Can you guess what was in the package?
 

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Just an update.
I wanted to follow up and express my gratitude to OGTS.
This group of folks are AWESOME.!. And truly are the kind of stand up people that others have talked about for years. And will continue to do so.
To my surprise a package showed up yesterday at my house.
Can you guess what was in the package?
I get tea from Edelschmiede.
 

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By the way RallyBob how did you get that sucker so shiny it's beautiful
Missed this the other day I guess!

That particular rack housing was sanded down smooth first…all casting seams removed and casting texture smoothed out too.

The next step was I polished it on a giant commercial buffer at my friend’s chrome shop, but I only used 220-grit Lea Liquabrade on a loose buffing wheel. That sort of gave it a brushed satin finish, and the flexible buff (14” diameter) gets into most of the nooks and crannies.

The final step to get a uniform finish was polishing by hand with a red Scotchbrite pad. That’s the final finish you are seeing.

I’ve fully polished and buffed other rack housings before, but it’s way more time intensive. Basically you get them down to about 400-grit sanded/ polished finish, then you buff it with multiple steps of buffing compound…green coloring compound, then white fine-coloring, then red jeweler’s rouge, each with a softer buff than the previous compound. Not only is it more time consuming, but way dirtier! You end up looking like a coal miner, but the aluminum looks like chrome.

So the polished/satin finish not only looks good, it’s far more easy to create and to maintain, though it’s not truly shiny.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
WOW that does sound like a process but looks well worth it.
The finished product is very nice looking. and no worries of paint or powder coat chipping.
Fantastic work RallyBob
 

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WOW that does sound like a process but looks well worth it.
The finished product is very nice looking. and no worries of paint or powder coat chipping.
Fantastic work RallyBob
If you want to do a WHOLE lot less work and get a nice finish....After disassembly, sandblast the aluminum housing with a medium grit, such as Black Diamond Red. Finish with a stainless steel wire wheel. If you want it easy to clean and stay glossy, put on a coat of high temp clear gloss coating on it. Always works well for me and does not take much time. Be sure to use a fairly soft stainless wire wheel to avoid scratches. A $3.00 pack of harbor freight wire wheels on a die grinder will work fine, just be careful of the flying wire bullets. Wear the proper safety gear!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
just be careful of the flying wire bullets.
HAHAHA been there those little suckers hurt in the right point of contact.
Funny though as a blast cabinet is on my wish list.
Thank you for the info Widerby
1 more reason to bump it up a little higher on my wish list
 
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