It's a bit hard to see in the picture, but those "arms" are just common 5/16 inch grade 5 bolts, with the heads ground down. I happened to use carriage bolts, which gives a rounded pulling lip with an "edge", while a regular bolt will provide a thicker lip. Your choice. I guess the thicker lip would be stronger. Or you could use a grade 8 bolt, but it is tougher to grind to shape.
A picture of Otto's puller can be seen on a later post.
Mine are approximately 4 inches long (but three inches would work), and you grind the bolt head so that it is off-set (lip on one side, none on the other), and "just" fits through the oval hole in the horn button. Slip the arms through the puller beam (available at any auto center) and then rotate each bolt so that the lip points to the inside. Tighten the center bolt against the shaft (with the nut off, of course), and the wheel should pop off. Remember to mark the wheel position relative to the shaft, so it goes back on straight.
DON'T use a hammer to help it off, either by striking the column shaft or the underside of the steering wheel. You risk damaging the "Energy Absorbing, Locking Column", by loosening the plastic injections that maintain steering shaft rigidity. (Just reading from the factory service manual). If you have a factory manual, look at the photo in figure 90-32, page 90-16, to see it in action. They even have marked the bolts to indicate which direction the "lip" is facing. Oh, look at that! I did it to mine too!
Check this out: UNITOOL # UT7404 steering wheel puller made especially for GM Vauxhall / Opel Models. I purchased mine last October at 2-Way Automotive in Amherstburg Ont. I believe it ran me around $25. Check it out at your friendly neighbourhood parts dealer.
i still like my luck i no one of the major NA bitter
parts dealers here in cali and he had an origanal
steering wheel puller which they would have had
at the dealer to remove the steering wheels on
opels/bitters i borrowed that and it worked the
best although looking at some of these home
made pullers they almost look like the one i used.......
I have found that the threaded end of the steering shaft that the
nut goes on is VERY soft and easy to compress with a steering
wheel puller of the type that pushes against the end of it.
To minimise damage I made up a steel sleeve with a 10mm thread
inside and an outside diameter just small enough to pass through the spline in the hub. The outer end of the sleeve was closed so that the puller screw pushed on that end and transfered the thrust down to the shoulder above the spline, thus
not loading the thread at all. Did this on my SECOND shaft :-(
Even experienced engineers have to learn by their mistakes!
Hope this helps
The PO put on a Nardi,I need to pull it to get to the broken ring
of pot metal that anchors the Stalk.
HAs anyone seen a tool that will pull my wheel?will the unitool work on my nardi wheel?
this is the one I bought at the car parts place,and it wont work as there is no bolt hole to grab on to, also observe the odd 2 sline nut that holds it on...seen a tool for that...I have been
bowsing Nardi sites..no luck yet.
doesnt it use the same hub as the origanal gt used.the gt uses a specail wheel puller that does not use the screw method like amny american cars and such use brows the site there was a forum on how to make one of these specail pullers but i was lucky and happened to now a guy who had the real tool they sold it is easy to make though search the forums.
Just to put in my $.02 worth, since you have to get this wheel off to fix your problem, I'd go and get a regular 2 & 3 (meaning you can attach it at 2 or 3 points) puller, drill 2 or 3 holes (space permitting) either at the base of the adaptor (the flat area around the nut holding the adaptor to the steering column) and use those to attach the puller (the holes will no be visible when you re-install everything) or drill the holes through the side of the adaptor, and fabricate "J" hooks for the puller and use them. (the holes in the sides of the adaptor will not be visible, unless you know where to look) Make sure you spray the shaft with "PB Blaster" before you start and let it soak in, it'll make it easier (hopefully)
From the looks of your pictures, you might need to remove the allen screws and possibly use their holes for your puller.
The other option might be something like a pitman arm puller. The have the "J" arms that will reach around the back of your sterring wheel to pull it off. If the there is a resonable lip for them to grab, you'd want to put a rag or something between them and the wheel to protect your wheel from marring.
What time do you have Saturday? I could swing by to see if mine would work. If not, your no worst off.
I see in your pic "puller.jpg" that the Nardi steering wheel is fitted to the alloy hub with a number of counter-sunk hex head screws in a circle around where the horn fits in. If you remove these the actual wheel itself will come off and leave a ring of threaded holes that can be used to attach the disc type puller you also pictured. Just use the wheel itself to see if the disc is of large enough diameter to drill matching holes in, using the Nardi wheel as a template to locate the holes on the rim of the puller.
The threads are probably metric (check/find someone who knows) so do not try to screw any old bolts into the alloy hub.
The counter-sunk screws may be usable but be sure that they are long enough as the alloy hub is very soft and the threads will pull out and be damaged if maximum thread engagement is not used. Remember to remove the centre nut and protect the shaft thread too - opeloldguy's suggestion of a socket is probably easiest. Just be sure that the socket sits on the shoulder above the spline and not on the end of the thread and also that the outside diameter of the socket fits through the spline hole in the alloy hub so that the splines will not be damaged either.
Hope this helps too.