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Detritus Maximus
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I haven't done this (although, I've thought about it!), but it seems to me that you would want to connect the 'outer wheel house' (the inner fender) with the 'new' edge of the outer sheetmetal (not the flare) with a new piece of metal. This would help to maintain the unibody integrity (I think?).
 

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Detritus Maximus
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2,994 Posts
I was thinking more about my suggestion to connect the wheel house to the new edge of the fender. I should clarify (I think) and say that the rear fender/wheel well is made up of two pieces welded together at the fender lip. When you cut the fender away, you will have to also cut away the wheel well to the same height. You will save a little weight, but not more than a couple of pounds (a couple pounds is a couple pounds!) on the whole car. And without sheetmetal connecting the metal panel edges, the unibody is compromised. The front is not really an issue as there is no inner panel. Aside from that, there should be no reason to have any metal sticking past the attachment area of the flare.

I'm not really happy with the look of the Steinmetz flares. I'd like something that was more the same height as the stock fender. Make the car look a little more muscular.
 

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Not happy with the flares

At first I wasn't happy with the look of them but after getting the flares on the car they look pretty cool. Not much style differance than what is on modern cars today...or aftermarket stuff that is. My only complaint is the way the front flares are "laidback" behind the front wheel. I'd prefer to have the flare follow the body panel on its original course. Either I'll do this manually or order new front flares from Oels Unreliable. Todd has a set that follows the original wheel well path close the tire. $300 bucks though. It also has the vented slot indentation like a corvette on its side... ewww..

kyle
 
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