[The Scifi Guy]

Norbert's friend would like to sell these "Pull" rods. Norbert (or the translation) called them "Tie" rods in his message to me. I have no idea what they are supposed to do.

(German monkey talk translated to English then translated into American monkey talk)

Hi Gordon
Do you know anyone who wants a set of pull rods for the front suspension on a GT?
Hartmut, who will do my engine swap, has a brand new set for sale. He wants 250.00 Euro not including shipping!
That is a very fair price for these TUV-certified pull rods, built by Klaus Priewe. The rods are bolt-on and don't require any welding.
I know Klaus charges nearly 400 Euro for a set!

Let me know if anyone is interested.

Norbert:veryhappy

 

[BQS4]

Gordo
These are a type of stabilizer bar, not a sway bar, to hold the front suspension in place. That front wedge looking piece has to be welded on the belly pan, provided your belly pan is straight

 

[P.J. Romano]

Not sure what the proper term in English would be, may be the Stabilizing bar.
The purpose of “Zugstrebe” is to prevent flexing of low control arms under braking. The GT has weak low control arms and they often bend permanently which affects front axle geometry.
The gusset kit sold by OGTS helps as well.

 

[P.J. Romano]

Front brakets are bolted on the front frame rails through the belly pan, no welding is involved. Those stabilizing bars are easy to install. On the negative side, they are very low from the ground, especially if your GT is lowered. I had a chance to check them on some GTs at Europatreffen in Holland last year.

 

[norbertone.gt371 (R.I.P.)]

P.J.,You declare all correct! I know this parts will be installed also with gussets! The suspension will be verry strange then.The parts also have a Tuev certificate! And also correct nothing must be welded.Here Klaus make a good job at all!Also the gussets are made by Klaus:yup:

Oh,the picture you make is from Mike`s bestes friend in Germany:haha:

 

[G.v.Mainberg]

They were discussed here on the forum before. For whatever reason, Gary's Sportwagon jumps to my mind?

Dieter

 

[The Scifi Guy]

They appear to be bolt-on, but you'll have to drill the holes for the bolts. Two holes in each A-arm and 2 holes in each side of the frame rails, plus 2 slots carved into the belly pan. The front brackets seem very sturdy and should be able to handle contact with the ground well. I have a removable belly pan, so I could probably install them pretty easy, but they will interfere with the custom reinforcement of the A-arms and sway bar brackets I did:

 

[Commodåren]

I believe they are called strut rods in the US. Are also used on several Ford, GM and Mopar front suspensions. Triangulated lower A-arms are a better idea because they don't need strut rods at all, if you ask me.

 

[norbertone.gt371 (R.I.P.)]

They appear to be bolt-on, but you'll have to drill the holes for the bolts. Two holes in each A-arm and 2 holes in each side of the frame rails, plus 2 slots carved into the belly pan. The front brackets seem very sturdy and should be able to handle contact with the ground well. I have a removable belly pan, so I could probably install them pretty easy, but they will interfere with the custom reinforcement of the A-arms and sway bar brackets I did:

View attachment 377885

Your brackets are more outer so there is no problem:no:

 

[norbertone.gt371 (R.I.P.)]

I believe they are called strut rods in the US. Are also used on several Ford, GM and Mopar front suspensions. Triangulated lower A-arms are a better idea because they don't need strut rods at all, if you ask me.

I know from more then one who swap to the Kadett C front suspension.Bud then you have a lot of body stiffer work and welding new brackets! Not a easy swap!!

 

[Commodåren]

Opel Rekords and Commodores also have strut rods in their front suspensions. They are mounted with rubber bushings as stock, which makes the rods move in a different arc than the lower control arm, which disturbs the alignment, and if used with stiff PU or metal bushings, put strain in the rod that in the worst case makes it break. And if the original bushings are worn, the strut rod and lower control arm moves around without control, which also disturbs the alignment and makes the car unstable during braking. The cure is using a uniball that lets the rod move in the same arc as the lower control arm, instead of the stock rubber bushing.
I have Steinmetz style uniballs in my Commodore, like these:
JoJoThumb - k Unibal fertig

 

[GTeglman]

Gents,

I'm quite sure that Wolfgang from https://www.pro-gt.de/en/ had these strut rods available in his catalogue a couple a years ago, but he does not advertise for them any more. Maybe I'm wrong, but I do recall something about that they where not road legal.

Could any of you fine gentlemen tell me the benefits of installing strut rods on a Opel GT ?

Cheers.

 

[First opel 1981]

Gents,

I'm quite sure that Wolfgang from https://www.pro-gt.de/en/ had these strut rods available in his catalogue a couple a years ago, but he does not advertise for them any more. Maybe I'm wrong, but I do recall something about that they where not road legal.

Could any of you fine gentlemen tell me the benefits of installing strut rods on a Opel GT ?

Cheers.

I think corner braking would be improved. It would maintain the geometry of the steering while under load. Less deflection.

 

[The Scifi Guy]

I can't help but think that it would have been simpler to have the struts extend rearwards to mount to existing bolting locations on the frame rails or at least easier to access locations to drill the holes without having to cut the belly pan or drill in the hard to access front area and not have the front brackets stick down and potentially hit the ground. I guess they would then be "push" rods instead of pull rods.

 

[Commodåren]

Do you mean something like on this stock Manta/Ascona B ?
https://www.tutti.ch/de/vi/schwyz/f...-ascona-b-2-0-e-vorderachse-komplett/15804338

 

[P.J. Romano]

They appear to be bolt-on, but you'll have to drill the holes for the bolts. Two holes in each A-arm and 2 holes in each side of the frame rails, plus 2 slots carved into the belly pan. The front brackets seem very sturdy and should be able to handle contact with the ground well. I have a removable belly pan, so I could probably install them pretty easy, but they will interfere with the custom reinforcement of the A-arms and sway bar brackets I did:

View attachment 377885

They will not interfere with your suspension Gordon. Also, I believe that the front brackets are bolted on the frame rails using existing bumper bracket holes.

 

[norbertone.gt371 (R.I.P.)]

They will not interfere with your suspension Gordon. Also, I believe that the front brackets are bolted on the frame rails using existing bumper bracket holes.

Also correct at all!:yup: Ha ha now I know why P.J. diving under most of GT`s here in Holland 2016:lmao:

 

[norbertone.gt371 (R.I.P.)]

I will get this rods from Hartmut end of the week here at my home!
So I will weigh the parts and find out the cheapest costs for shipment.
Hartmut tell me a template from Klaus, for drill and cut the slots in the belly pan is also included.
So it will be easy to make the job. Drill, cut and screw well done,simple:yup:

Norbert:veryhappy

 

[norbertone.gt371 (R.I.P.)]

Gents,

I'm quite sure that Wolfgang from https://www.pro-gt.de/en/ had these strut rods available in his catalogue a couple a years ago, but he does not advertise for them any more. Maybe I'm wrong, but I do recall something about that they where not road legal.

Could any of you fine gentlemen tell me the benefits of installing strut rods on a Opel GT ?

Cheers.

@Anders
Yes,the rods from Wolfgang was only a selfmade copy from Klaus work!
So they are not proof and certificated.Only the ones build by Klaus are proofed and certificated!

 

[Knorm65]

Ok those things are cool! I'm interested depending on the cost of shipping and such.